bowhunter-tw Report post Posted August 25, 2020 I just picked up a 336 from 1995, the gun looks to be in great shape, the bluing looks great with no signs of rust, but when wiped with hoppes oil the white paper towel comes out looking like there is a layer if rust? (See pictures) how can I remove this layer completely? Or do I leave it alone since I cant see it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bucks&bulls Report post Posted August 25, 2020 Hoppes oil or Hoppes solvent? I am thinking that you are using solvent on the exterior of that rifle. Hoppes solvent is not recommended for blued gun surfaces. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowhunter-tw Report post Posted August 25, 2020 This stuff, either one will do it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bucks&bulls Report post Posted August 25, 2020 Did you use the solvent first? That would explain what is happening. I don’t specifically recall how you neutralize solvent but break free or WD-40 would probably do it. You want to get all the solvent off the blued surfaces then apply a thin coat of oil. I typically only use oil to clean and protect blued surfaces. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Delw Report post Posted August 25, 2020 Ive used hoppes #9 to wipe down barrels and actions on shotguns, then wiped them down with oil. Ive seen the color before but if you look at #9 its the same color. I still have the shotguns today some are 50 years old Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowhunter-tw Report post Posted August 25, 2020 I dont think im going to worry too much, the rust color come off whether is use the high precision hoppes oil, gun bore cleaner, or shooters choice fp-10 clp. The gun looks pretty good other wise. (Need to replace loading gate screw, left out on purpose) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Delw Report post Posted August 25, 2020 one thing to think about #9 is that try to keep it off the wood especially Remington 1100 forearms. its real thin in some areas and the old saying was it will split the wood there. Dads older skeet and trap buddies always had that complaint about the 1100s back in the 60's. they always brought that up when I was cleaning mine after a shoot at the rod and gun clubs. I assumed it was all wood Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowhunter-tw Report post Posted August 25, 2020 7 minutes ago, Delw said: one thing to think about #9 is that try to keep it off the wood especially Remington 1100 forearms. its real thin in some areas and the old saying was it will split the wood there. Dads older skeet and trap buddies always had that complaint about the 1100s back in the 60's. they always brought that up when I was cleaning mine after a shoot at the rod and gun clubs. I assumed it was all wood Good to know, I typically try to keep all my oils away from the wood on my guns, but I will keep an eye on the no. 9 specifically. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Delw Report post Posted August 25, 2020 #9 meaning the solvent not on the wood. the oils I dont think would be a problem but I could be wrong Thats wood on the butt stock is nice Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowhunter-tw Report post Posted August 25, 2020 What oil or protective coating do you recommend for blued finished? From the description on the bottle I thought the no. 9 was sufficient for preserving/protecting the blue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRDATR Report post Posted August 25, 2020 11 hours ago, bowhunter-tw said: What oil or protective coating do you recommend for blued finished? From the description on the bottle I thought the no. 9 was sufficient for preserving/protecting the blue. Frog Lube or WD40 Specialist. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Delw Report post Posted August 25, 2020 On mine I use rem oil and other brands what ever I happen to fine at the time I need it ;) one thing I do buy because of the brand is sweets 7.62 and hoppes #9 for solvents. obviously the sweets is for inside the rifled barrels and the hoppes is for shotgun bores, actions, bolts, fire control groups etc etc and I also run it After I run the sweets in the rifled bores. Since most of my shotguns and rifles are safe queens They get greased once a year with frog lube(only have used this for about 2 years I think now) or this real thin grease I bought in the 90's from randals I forget the name but its old school Ill check on it when I get home late tonight if I remember. I have had a hard time finding it locally but I saw they still made it.. it comes off really nice when you want to use the firearm. frogs looked to be a tad heavier than this stuff. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jlreff Report post Posted August 26, 2020 I use 4 ought steel wool or brass wool same grade to remove light surface rust. Montana cleaning solvents and pledge or fl it z gun wax on blues guns. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowhunter-tw Report post Posted August 26, 2020 5 minutes ago, Jlreff said: I use 4 ought steel wool or brass wool same grade to remove light surface rust. Montana cleaning solvents and pledge or fl it z gun wax on blues guns. Would you use brass wool even if there isnt any visual indication of rust? The gun looks deep blue but a white paper towel shows different? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jlreff Report post Posted August 26, 2020 Yes. That’s how I restored my dads first shotgun he bought. Also how we brought the deep bluing out on guns we blues in the shop. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
