Getting into Reloading

[recurveman]

Go get a rock chucker.    That last thing you need is a progressive.   Do it slowly and learn.   It is hard to beat a RC and they aren't that expensive.  

[bowhunter-tw]

On 8/18/2020 at 5:57 PM, roninflag said:

you do not say where you are. ron

Im in Tempe, Az. 
 

On 8/19/2020 at 12:54 AM, Swivelhead said:

Try to never use LOW limit as certain cal. build really high pressures at the low end. 243 used to be one of them when you combine it with heat certain types of powder and primers.

I dont completely understand this one, are you saying cause you leave excess space in the case that a powder burns so fast it builds too high of pressure before the bullet begins to leave the case? It is obvious to me that overloading could be an issue, never considered under loading, very interesting. Would make a fun fluid dynamics/thermo dynamics problem.

[biglakejake]

4 minutes ago, bowhunter-tw said:

never considered under loading

it was called detonation and did alot of damage to non-bolt action rifles and magnum revolvers.i'm sure its called something else now.

lee

[Swivelhead]

3 minutes ago, bowhunter-tw said:

Im in Tempe, Az. 
 

I dont completely understand this one, are you saying cause you leave excess space in the case that a powder burns so fast it builds too high of pressure before the bullet begins to leave the case? It is obvious to me that overloading could be an issue, never considered under loading, very interesting. Would make a fun fluid dynamics/thermo dynamics problem.

I don't understand the hows & whys of reduced charge pressure excursions but I am a believer.  Pulled bullets and weighed the charges which were at the lowest listing on the loading manual.  It was a long time ago.  IIRC, it was a hot day when the mishap occurred.  Talked to a number of experienced shooters who reload over the years and reduced load/pressure excursions are known issue.

[Delw]

Under pressure loads cause more guns to explode than over pressure I am betting.

I'm not good at explaing things well but will give it a try.

your bullet runs tight in the grooves, if you actually find one in good condidtion yu will see groove marks in the bullet left from the lands.

so with that being said, you need a certain number of lbs of pressure to fire that bullet through your barrel. if you under the pressure needed the explosion has to go somewhere and its usually a spot of least resistant. since the bullet cant make it through(because you dont have enough pressure to squeeze it through the rifled barrel) it will find other areas,  the fully loaded case is locked into place by locking lugs on the bolt. so generally wont go through there. it will however blow a  hole in the case either at the primer or where ever there is an open space. primer holes sloppy head spacing leaves gaps etc etc.

I think I can find some pics later tonight that might help you understand it better, but will have to wait till tonight cause I am buried at work.. I found one years ago from a barrel testing lab just dont remember whos it was. it should the Barrel ,action bolt case etc etc and the gas's moving. it was animated..... Come to think of it I think it was on how the gas's worked on a  ar-15 some old gattlin guns pages have some pretty good examples on how they work showing the gas's as well

 

[biglakejake]

https://www.shootersforum.com/threads/detonation.102031/

[bowhunter-tw]

14 minutes ago, Delw said:

Under pressure loads cause more guns to explode than over pressure I am betting.

I'm not good at explaing things well but will give it a try.

your bullet runs tight in the grooves, if you actually find one in good condidtion yu will see groove marks in the bullet left from the lands.

so with that being said, you need a certain number of lbs of pressure to fire that bullet through your barrel. if you under the pressure needed the explosion has to go somewhere and its usually a spot of least resistant. since the bullet cant make it through(because you dont have enough pressure to squeeze it through the rifled barrel) it will find other areas,  the fully loaded case is locked into place by locking lugs on the bolt. so generally wont go through there. it will however blow a  hole in the case either at the primer or where ever there is an open space. primer holes sloppy head spacing leaves gaps etc etc.

I think I can find some pics later tonight that might help you understand it better, but will have to wait till tonight cause I am buried at work.. I found one years ago from a barrel testing lab just dont remember whos it was. it should the Barrel ,action bolt case etc etc and the gas's moving. it was animated..... Come to think of it I think it was on how the gas's worked on a  ar-15 some old gattlin guns pages have some pretty good examples on how they work showing the gas's as well

 

This makes sense, barely made it through the first sentenced and realized what happens, makes total sense.

[bowhunter-tw]

If I dont have a specific manufacture of bullet I prefer is there a manual that will be better to get started with?

[Saguaro]

Hogdons, since their powder is popular.  Any other manuals should do fine.  Sierra has a lot of info and their bullets are abundant.  Speer has a lot of info.  It doesn’t hurt to have multiple.  If you’re reloading for a .270 Winchester, using a 130 grain Partition, it would be helpful to see what Nosler has compared to a Speer in 130 grain Spitzer for the same powder.  My mom would buy us guys a new edition for Christmas on many occasions.  It was a cool gift and she would write something nice on the first blank page.  

[bowhunter-tw]

So I picked up some manuals, but they are pretty old, does the date of the manual matter? Its the third edition hornady, 3rd barnes, speer 14, lyman 47th and 49th. Is the load info in these relevant or do I really need to get the latest additions?

[Saguaro]

It’s wise to get something more current but it’s not necessary.  Barnes hasn’t changed much, Hornady changes often.  What I do when I experiment with new loads is to check some of the manuals I have, both new and old.  Then I check the website of Hogdon, Nosler, Berger etc for what they have most current.  By checking three or four sources of data, you should do well.  No manual is a waste.  They make good reading at bedtime.  Don’t be afraid to mark them up.  Use a pencil so that you can erase later as to not cause confusion in the future.  Next thing you should probably plan on is a three ring binder for your rifles.  That is where you will want to make permanent notes and save target cut outs of groups with loads.  Otherwise it’s brain damage trying to remember seating depth, COAL, bullets, powder etc.

The older books probably won’t show the powder available that’s current.  Some of those may be old enough that they won’t have powders like Leverevolution, CFE 223, lil gun, Retumbo and some of the Vitavorhi.  They also won’t have cartridges like the 6.5 Creedmoor, PRC, and the Nosler cartridges.  I recommend looking for a newer Hogdon or surf their website.