Getting into Reloading

[bowhunter-tw]

I am considering starting to reload, I started shooting a little more and want to be able to put together my own rounds for hunting and shooting. Shooting 308, 223, wanting to add a 243 and 300 to the collection. Im thinking a redding t7 turret press. Any other suggestions or reasons why I should do a single stage, probably not going to spend the money on a progressive 

[Saguaro]

That press will be great.  I think progressives are better for pistols.  The only things I recommend is look into brass prep tools and reloading manuals and good scales.  I know most info is online, but there is a lot to be gained by reading the manuals.  

[Delw]

I reload for the 308 300 winmag .243 270 25-06 220 swift and many more and still use my RCBS on most rifle calls. I have 2 550's mainly use them one stage at a time once set up on .223 permanently.

get a good scale and a good powder measure  those 2 tools are most important in being good quality

[bowhunter-tw]

Are there manuals from a specific source that will be more beneficial? I think I might need to get one and read it prior to purchasing the equipment as I dont know all the components I should consider. 

[Saguaro]

Nosler, Speer, Hornady and Sierra are the ones I use.  I don’t have a favorite but it seems like Hornady keeps getting better.  The first few chapters of Speer are good reading.  It shows you with illustrations the cause and effects of doing it wrong.  It will show you a lot, like cases with too much lube and pressure signs. It will talk about seating depth and brass prep and everything in between.

[L Cazador]

58 minutes ago, bowhunter-tw said:

Are there manuals from a specific source that will be more beneficial? I think I might need to get one and read it prior to purchasing the equipment as I dont know all the components I should consider. 

Buy a reloading manual that's specific to the brand of bullets that you intend to shoot. If you like Hornady bullets then buy a Hornady manual. I have all the different brands but since I shoot mostly Berger bullets I find my Berger manual is the most helpful to my current needs. If you can afford more than one than by all means buy them.

[DCS]

Welcome to the world of reloading,I have been making my own since 1969.Take your time,go slow,and don't have any distractions at the loading bench,kids,wives etc..Loading manuals will all have different maximum loads depending on how old they are-the liability factor.Never load the max starting out,always start with a REDUCED LOAD,and work up from there.Lots of info out there,if something is going on,ask for help.Enjoy your new hobby.

[JTB]

I know you only asked about a press but I will list the equipment that has helped me load for great accuracy. Forster Co-Ax press (very easy to switch dies and allows the die and case to accurately align during the sizing process).  Redding full length bushing dies (selecting the right bushing size will help achieve consistent neck tension).  I use hornady seating dies most of the time because I like the alignment sleeve they have.  Good balance beam powder scale and powder trickler. I use the RCBS chargemaster to get close and a balance beam scale to dial it in.  Imperial sizing die wax.  Dry neck lube/application media (makes seating very smooth and helps avoid scaring). Case trimmer (I like the RCBS trim pro 3-way cutters as they deburr as they trim; when they are dialed-in they work well and save a lot of time).  I keep my brass just under or at max length as trimming is very minimal.  Neck turning tool (I lightly turn my new brass to assure they are consistent for use with the bushing die but not a deal breaker if not turned when using quality brass (Lapua, ADG, Peterson, etc).  I use the precision hardcore gear aluminum funnels as they do away with any powder bridging and stay in place if needing to tap down full powder charges.  Vibratory tumbler with walnut hull media (if media is untreated you will want to add a polishing agent to it). I have other case cleaning systems but the vibratory tumbler is my go-to.  I like to use a handheld primer pocket trimmer to clean primer pockets. The Frankford hand primer tool is a nice piece of equipment to have but the press will also work well for seating primers.  
Reloading/shooting has been one of my favorite hobbies for almost 45 years and has been a great journey. Enjoy

[recurveman]

Find a buddy that reloads and go help them reload.   You will learn a ton from someone that has done it for years.   It isn't hard but can be a bit intimidating to learn it the first time.  

Reloading isn't cheaper either.   It costs more money to reload than to buy ammo.   The more you go down the rabbit hole the more expensive it is to shoot.   To me spending the money for the better performance is worth it but not everyone feels the same way. 

A quick "other option" is to buy a quality brass ( I buy Nosler) and just prime the case, add powder and a bullet.    Then go shoot.   Depending on how much you are going to shoot it might be a good option too.   Then at some point you will have a ton of brass to either work your brass or sell it and get more new brass.    The work is really in the brass prep.

Once I find "a load" that works out of my gun I will typically buy all the needed components for the expected life of the barrel.   Let's say that I found a bullet and powder that work great out of a gun and the barrel will last 1000 rounds.    I will go buy enough powder to fill the cases 1000 times and get 1000 bullets and 1000 primers.    Then I have the components to reload for the gun for the life of the barrel.   Components can change and then your load will change.    Sometimes you can't buy the components.........So buy a ton once you find your load.      

[bowhunter-tw]

Tons of good advice, I will definitely be re reading this to learn as much from y’alls experience as possible. I have a buddy that reloads and is pretty experienced in it, I think I will go help him a few times to get my head around the process and all steps involved before I dive into getting my own bench set up. 
 

JTB, i recently discovered a Forsters co ax press it looks pretty sweet, it is definitely on my list but seems to be sold out everywhere. Looks to be stout and slop free like a single stage but as quick as a turret press on tool changes

[roninflag]

bowhunter i have been loading since 1968.   i use a rcokchucker.  i  just counted , i have 36 die sets. some i have doubles of.  by loading with someone first the learning will go faster. you do not say where you are. ron

[Delw]

always good  load with someone who knows how to load before you start doing it yourself.

As far as where to start on loads generally best way to start is half way on whats recommended or between half and low. Try to never use LOW limit as certain cal. build really high pressures at the low end. 243 used to be one of them when you combine it with heat certain types of powder and primers.

either way what ever you do NEVER go under or over the max your few times around. always look for pressure signs.

I have a ton of books on loads, all the speer hoardny nosler etc ect, one I found that I really like is the Lyman( I bought it like 10 years ago).

To this day I have still have my pet loads so to speak for certain guns and cal. (2 identical guns rarely shoot the exact same), but when I am loading new stuff like different powders, bullet weights primers etc etc I generally reference a few manuals and looks at the grains they say, then start in the middle of those. I have seen one book say this and in another book same major components have way different grain fluctuation.

[Swivelhead]

2 hours ago, Delw said:

As far as where to start on loads generally best way to start is half way on whats recommended or between half and low. Try to never use LOW limit as certain cal. build really high pressures at the low end. 243 used to be one of them when you combine it with heat certain types of powder and primers.

^^^^ This

A long time ago (mid 70's) I loaded low power loads for a .270 Win with Dupont 4350 and experienced a pressure excursion that required opening the bolt with a rubber hammer.  The brass was embedded in the bolt face which broke the extractor upon removal.  That was a Remington 700 action.  Action vented gas upon firing, scary stuff.   

 

[Flatrock]

I got into reloading about 2 years ago.  What a few other guys said about watching a buddy or having somebody to help is spot on.  I have a buddy who has helped me a ton along the way.  Also, I would start out reloading ONLY for that 223 for awhile ago.  All those components are pretty cheap and you'll be learning the process as cheaply as possible.  You'll learn tons of stuff along the way.  

[PRDATR]

1 hour ago, Flatrock said:

I got into reloading about 2 years ago.  What a few other guys said about watching a buddy or having somebody to help is spot on.  I have a buddy who has helped me a ton along the way.  Also, I would start out reloading ONLY for that 223 for awhile ago.  All those components are pretty cheap and you'll be learning the process as cheaply as possible.  You'll learn tons of stuff along the way.  

One thing I'll mention to look out for when reloading 223 is after being rezised the case will stretch so you will need a set of dial calipers to measure the overall length (OAL). If you exceed it the loaded shell may not be able to be chambered or close the bolt. You will need a case trimmer to trim the case back  a few thousands. Now after going through this procedure a few times and the case stretching over and over the case becomes thinner (imagine holding a piece of taffy between two hands and pulling it apart) and this always seems to happen about 1/2" up from the base. Sometimes you will see a ring appear but usually not and when you fire the shell it comes out in two pieces.  I've never seen it happen to any other case except 223.

There is no magic number but I seem to remember having to trim the cases back after being resized the 3rd time.