bobbyo Report post Posted May 15, 2008 Hey I'm back. More questions for the fob experts. What would be the best dropaway to use with this and what is weight difference between say three 4 inch AAE vanes and the FOB. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4Falls Report post Posted May 15, 2008 bobbyo, The website says the discs weigh 24.5 grains. And they're 1" in diameter so they should work with and fall away rest. They show them being used on a few different styles. Still wondering about how they stay on in the field etc. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coues Sniper Report post Posted May 15, 2008 Hey I'm back. More questions for the fob experts. What would be the best dropaway to use with this and what is weight difference between say three 4 inch AAE vanes and the FOB. bobbyo, The website says the discs weigh 24.5 grains. And they're 1" in diameter so they should work with and fall away rest. They show them being used on a few different styles. Still wondering about how they stay on in the field etc. They work with all drop aways as far as i know, and the weight is pretty much a wash. I've never had any issues with them coming off of the arrow going through brush. I guess it could happen, but i would be surprised. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redman Report post Posted May 16, 2008 Hey I'm back. More questions for the fob experts. What would be the best dropaway to use with this and what is weight difference between say three 4 inch AAE vanes and the FOB. The fall away rest must fall quickly....that being said I use the Trophy Ridge Drop Zone, it has a vertical drop not a fall away drop (and I believe the maker of the FOB's uses the drop zone also). The weight of 3 2 inch blazers is 18, I think 4 inch vanes are heavier. They fobs can unbalance the FOC of a arrow, if you are concerned go to the Gold Tip website and calculate it. Redman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firstcoueswas80 Report post Posted May 16, 2008 I would also like to try 2 or 3 of the fobs as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coues Sniper Report post Posted May 16, 2008 I would also like to try 2 or 3 of the fobs as well. You got it bro. I'll put some in with the package I'm already sending you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4Falls Report post Posted May 16, 2008 I think Im going to try some of these. Ive got an archery pronghorn tag and I think these would work great with all the crosswind situations you encounter on those hunts. Thanks for all the info guys. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Morris Report post Posted May 17, 2008 Howdy all! I herd there was some FOB talk here so I thought I would join in if that is OK. I promise NEVER to try and sell anything. Just answer question and be of any help I can. My background is Mechanical Engineering. I had spent the better part of 12 years working at a rocket ranch (Hughes Missile Systems). I am also lucky enough to say I have not missed an archery Elk hunt in almost 30 years. I am even luckier to say it has been with the same group of friends. My thoughts regarding bodies in motion come from crunching the numbers. My thoughts regarding arrow flight comes from hunting and the frustration of getting a broadhead to fly. Anyone ever compare FOBs to Turbo Nocks? Hey fobshooter, is it possible to get a sample of 1 or 2 instead of laying out $20 for a dozen just to give them a try? Thanks, Mark One taboo for us.....please NEVER compare Turbo Nocks with FOBs The design is like comparing bowling balls to apples. Two totally different ways of flying a broadhead. There is a video floating around You Tube that Mr. Turbo did comparing to FOBs. Yikes! His set up had the string pinching like heck on the FOB at full draw and the Turbo requires a 3/16 or so nock high. The FOB is to be set as a vane would be 90 degrees to the string. No wonder his hooter shooter had the FOB diving low! errr.... !! Then the penetration test was shooting the turbos in the worn out part of the target and the FOB because it was forced to shoot low hit the corner. This is about all I will say about the T-thingy. The last thing we need is for the Turbo guys to start a bash-a-thon. I would rather take the high road and only talk about the merits of my product NOT to put down some other product. I would be glad to expand my thoughts on the FOB. Here is a good link that describes the principle behind the FOBs. http://fob-nation.com/SMF/index.php?topic=297.0 These look very interesting. One question to those of you who are using them. How do they hold up in day to day field conditions? i.e. wading through oak brush and manzanita? Sure would be disappointing to make a big long stalk only to have all you fobs lost in the brush somewhere. Good question! It is possible to pull the FOBs off your arrows but it takes some doing. I put a 1/4 mile belly crawl stalk on an Elk a few years back in Oregon and by the time I got to 20 yards I lost two FOBs! But now I know how to push the bow through brush or belly crawl without a problem. The good thing about a FOB, you can put one on in a few seconds. My set up usually has two arrows with FOBs and the rest are in the quiver bare shaft with only the nocks. I have never had more that two shots and a critter and I always carry extra FOBs and nocks with me. For my hunting set up I usually have some fairly tight nocks. I find that my arrows get pulled out of the quiver before the FOB do. For target practice using a looser nock is a must. It allows the FOBs to pop off easy when group shooting and preventing damage. Also we have found with the really fast and lightweight arrows, you need a looser nock when shooting it hard targets. This allows the FOB to continue to spin slightly upon impact. As a general rule, if your FOBs are breaking your nocks are too tight. Hey I'm back. More questions for the fob experts. What would be the best dropaway to use with this and what is weight difference between say three 4 inch AAE vanes and the FOB. Here is a link to all of the rest I have done writes up for; http://fob-nation.com/SMF/index.php?board=23.0 If you have any questions or wanting to know my opinion, pm me and I would be glad to give my opinion based on your set up. I think Im going to try some of these. Ive got an archery pronghorn tag and I think these would work great with all the crosswind situations you encounter on those hunts. Thanks for all the info guys. Crosswind is where the FOB is unmatched! You guys from Tucson know we have had some good afternoon wind lately. I go out with friends 1-2 days/weeks and stump shoot/rove here in the desert. Even out past 80 yards in some serious wind (20-30mph) I never make a windage adjustment. Drift is usually only a few inches. Just last week I let a few Zwickey's fly at 50 yards in 20+ mph cross wind. It hit within 1 inch of my field point and they both only drifted a few inches from center (Yes......with FOBs you can shoot Zwickey's again!-My favorite head). Always here to help! Glad to be here! Regards, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4Falls Report post Posted May 17, 2008 Thanks for the info Paul and welcome to the site. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Morris Report post Posted May 18, 2008 Of all the videos that are on You Tube, this video I made sums up the FOB fairly well. That big broadhead I am shooting in slow motion shows the fletch deform under load. And honestly I was aiming at the same spot as with the FOBs. FOB vs. Fletch Regards, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Schmitty Report post Posted May 18, 2008 Well, I got a package in the mail today from Coues Sniper containing a couple of FOB's to try out. Thanks Kevin! First impression regarding these things is that actual markup must be 10,000%, but that's business and Paul isn't going to put gas in his car selling these little jewels for a nickel I had a few unfletched shafts laying around and the best thing these FOBs have going for them is how quick and easy they are to install. I've got an old JoJan single fletcher and it takes me 15 minutes minimum (if I'm rushing things) to fletch a single arrow and then I won't shoot it for another day. With the FOBS you just pull out the nock and pop them on the shaft, push the nock back in and you're good. I know these FOB's are really supposed to shine with broadheads, but I don't have a very good broadhead target so I figured I'd try them out with a couple of field points just to get a feel. The first thing I noticed was when I drew my bow, the FOB pressed up against my chin which was kind of annoying, but it didn't seem to affect accuracy. The arrows shot a couple of inches lower than the same arrows fletched with Blazers. I wasn't able to shoot at any real distance as my neighbor's jackAzz kid parked his van right in my shooting lane at 40 yards, so 35 yards was the farthest I could shoot. I shot spots at 25 and 35 yards with no real accuracy difference between the FOBs and the Blazers. The Blazers were a bit more consistent, but that is more than likely the indian and not the arrow. The FOB's seemed to fly with just a hint of noise. A tad more noise than the Blazers, but certainly quieter than feathers. However, I did notice that the nocks were coming loose on about every 3rd shot w/ the FOBs. The nocks weren't popping off, just backing out a 1/8" or so. It was happening with both arrows, so it wasn't isolated to a single loose nock. I decided to shoot 2 shot groups at 35 yards and I smacked the FOB with arrow #2 so I didn't get much of a sample to really test, though it's tough to argue with the results. However, unless you've got real deep pockets or you are a horrendous shot, I wouldn't shoot groups with them under 60 yards. My initial impression is that I'll most likely stick with vanes as I didn't like them pressing into my chin and I like the more "traditional" look of vanes However, I really didn't get to fool around with them as much as I'd like and I'm going to order up a dozen to play around with. I want to try them out with some big nasty old broadheads that I've got laying around at further distances in windy conditions to see how well they really work. I think they are a bit overpriced at $2 a pop (shipping and tax included) for what they are, especially considering how easy they are to break. But that's probably just jealousy that I wasn't smart enough to come with the idea! I'll try a little bit more experimenting and try to develop a more solid opinion. Thanks again Kevin for sending me a couple to fool with! BTW, I have been on the search for your brass and primers with matching negatory results! take care, Schmitty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Morris Report post Posted May 18, 2008 Thanks for the post! I would suggest when you get a pack to keep shooting them and that feeling like a rock in your shoe will go away. When you no longer "feel" the FOB you should be shooting laser beams. The FOB should turn into a kind of a kisser button. Once you get use to it, you will like it. Where you should see the FOB shine is broadhead tuning and performance in crosswind. Re: Noise….Lots of data on this one. The noise generated by the FOB comes off the back end of the FOB which is directed right at the shooter and sounds different. This is caused by the air being compressed and de-compressed (this is how we get so much bang for the buck). When ever someone calls and says the FOB makes to much noise, I suggest that they stand SAFELY at the target end (behind a tree or something) and have someone shoot a broadhead at the target and compare to a fletch. So far most everyone who tries this agrees that the FOB makes less noise or no more than fletching. A fletch will fold and flutter under load and makes noise. The FOB sounds the same regardless of conditions as it does not deform. Over the last few years we have had many folks harvest lots of game and nobody ever has had an issue with noise. Again, the noise from the FOB comes off the back end is directed right at the shooter. Take a look at these links to some noise testing. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.p...obs+starrflight http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=509314 As far as the cost.... Well, I would have to say our tooling is much more expensive than say making a quick spin ($19.95 for a dozen arrows) and you still need the glue and jigs or shrink fletch ($25-30+ bucks a dozen) We have about $100,000 in tooling cost. It looks like a simple piece of injected molded plastic but believe me when I say, not so easy to make! As far as the nocks go....That is normal and a good thing the nocks loosen up a bit after the shot. You will get in the habit of securing the nock after retrieving your arrows (not that big a deal?). Although shooting groups is not recommended, the flip side is that you can now go roving/stump shooting without any fear of tearing up a fletch. One of the most fun we have here is roving with a group out in the desert and shoot punky logs, dead cactus etc… All unknown yardage and we get hundreds of pass through shoots and the FOB will last forever. A fletch would get torn to pieces the first shot. If we were using fletching, there would be no way we would have this much fun practicing because of fletch damage. If you do like to shoot groups (So do I), you can set up a cheep 2 or 3" wide foam target in front of your block target at least an arrows length away. Then when you have a pass through, the FOB will pop off (undamaged for re-use) and you can try and shoot the same hole. Those ballistic peel and stick gun targets make for a good spot indicator. They turn from black to green when you make a hit. Please keep us posted with your FOB story. I am always available for help if needed. Regards, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coues 'n' Sheep Report post Posted May 18, 2008 I think Paul should become a sponsor/member on CW.com. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tjhunt2 Report post Posted May 18, 2008 I think Paul should become a sponsor/member on CW.com. I 2nd that! TJ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GameHauler Report post Posted May 18, 2008 I think Paul should become a sponsor/member on CW.com. And Members get a 75% discount Well, maybe a weekly raffle for half a dozen. Just a thought Share this post Link to post Share on other sites