Jazz Report post Posted September 15, 2018 So some things I'm apparently not a pro at - yet. The Ranger starts chugging after a few miles. I thought it was the ripped intake boot, but after 3-5 miles it still acts up. Once it gets hot- it'll cut out if I stop. I watched the fuel pressure stay at 40 as it died.. so I'm thinking electrical. And the TPS seems to be affected when I jiggle the wires. Who's got a good shop in the north valley? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oz31p Report post Posted September 15, 2018 If you google around those 700s had issues with the wire breaking inside the shielding near the tps. Also there are diag codes but you have to google how to retrieve them Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oz31p Report post Posted September 15, 2018 And a new pump and regulator never hurt a first gen ranger. You can replace the pump separately from whole tank assembly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jazz Report post Posted September 15, 2018 The guy I bought it from said the pump was replaced.. and the pressure did stay at 40 when it idled out.., I hear that these issues are 70% pump and 30% TPS/wires.. Not sure if it could still be the pump if it's popping out 40 psi- and I'm thinking I need to buy a multimeter to really get into this thing. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oz31p Report post Posted September 15, 2018 46 minutes ago, Jazz said: The guy I bought it from said the pump was replaced.. and the pressure did stay at 40 when it idled out.., I hear that these issues are 70% pump and 30% TPS/wires.. Not sure if it could still be the pump if it's popping out 40 psi- and I'm thinking I need to buy a multimeter to really get into this thing. I agree Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ohthatguy Report post Posted September 17, 2018 TMAP sensor may be worth looking at if you eliminate the other items.. If you even have one. I'm NOT a mechanic and didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn last night. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freakycamo Report post Posted September 18, 2018 You can check for the codes, turn your key to ON 3 times, leave it to on position and it will go into diagnostic mode and give you the codes. That is how I found out it was the TPS. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jazz Report post Posted September 18, 2018 SO that's for that- I did the codes. Got a 25. Not sure about that yet. I did see that the TBAP harness has exposed wiring where it was touching the rail. I hear that can do the very thing I'm complaining about. The new harness will be here tomorrow and I"ll splice it in. Gawd I'm hoping that's all it is. Elk hunt is in three weeks! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freakycamo Report post Posted September 18, 2018 Code 25 is a Gear shift sensor fault. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jazz Report post Posted September 21, 2018 Code 25 went away.. And I installed the new Tbap sensor. It came with butt connectors- and I used those for the test drive. The Ranger drives great, but it did suddenly cut out twice. Once was going down the hill- I let up on the gas and it was instant. I'm going to cut the connectors and solder them in place tonight. Previously, it would chug and idle out slowly. So I think I'm getting closer- I'm going to run some quality gas through it with some injection cleaner, and if it's still a problem next week, I'll change out the pump. It does restart instantly- and only did it twice in 8 miles, so maybe it's a glitch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Will K Report post Posted September 21, 2018 Fuel Pump Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRDATR Report post Posted September 21, 2018 https://www.alliedelec.com/te-connectivity-cpgi-cwt-9002-bulk/70066602/?mkwid=sfz3YDrNe&pcrid=30980760979&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrZLdBRCmARIsAFBZllHpkA3aZByl6EifWayfQCTIdZPDCSO-pdZY1Lg6T6LOdQrRaLjxZ4MaAjTyEALw_wcB 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jazz Report post Posted September 21, 2018 17 minutes ago, PRDATR said: https://www.alliedelec.com/te-connectivity-cpgi-cwt-9002-bulk/70066602/?mkwid=sfz3YDrNe&pcrid=30980760979&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrZLdBRCmARIsAFBZllHpkA3aZByl6EifWayfQCTIdZPDCSO-pdZY1Lg6T6LOdQrRaLjxZ4MaAjTyEALw_wcB I just bought 10! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Workman Report post Posted September 22, 2018 Check to make sure your ignition and all connections to it are clean and tight behind the dash. I had one that did the same thing you’re saying. The dealer never could figure it out cause it would run fine when they had it but as soon as I took off down a dirt road it would happen again. Found my ignition loose and tightened it and cleaned up the connections and never had the problem again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jazz Report post Posted September 24, 2018 On 9/22/2018 at 9:15 AM, Workman said: Check to make sure your ignition and all connections to it are clean and tight behind the dash. I had one that did the same thing you’re saying. The dealer never could figure it out cause it would run fine when they had it but as soon as I took off down a dirt road it would happen again. Found my ignition loose and tightened it and cleaned up the connections and never had the problem again. Good advice! I checked out the plugs, and the driver side is really bad- the spark plug wire is perma-bonded to the plug. Both look really bad. I called the dealer today, and they don't carry them in stock. (what??) Ordered. Should be here Thursday. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
