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Question for Auto Mechanics

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I was hoping to get another year, or two, out of the truck, without major issues. Been debt free for 9 years, and not having truck payments is nice. Might have to go with a newer used vehicle at some point.

 

A couple cylinders are losing some compression, I know the motor is like me. Getting old and worn out. LOL. Found out the hard way, that the truck is cheaper to rebuild, than me.

 

Thanks for the replies.

 

I'm going to get dirty this weekend and see what I can accomplish.

I know the feeling, I been saying that for 5 years. paid 1500 for the truck about 8-10 years ago. 97 4x4 1500 ram extended cab. body it fantastic dash board looks like a gernade blew up on the top of it.

I only need the truck to get me 1.2 miles to work and 1.2 miles home everyday. figured when the tires wore out I would sell it and get a new one, instead I got 4 used tires for it for 100 bucks lol.

has minor oil leak so dont have to change oil, its self changing just pop a filter in once a year. batts every 2 years.

I dont drive it on the free way as I dont like the front end and should be rebuilt..

plus we have the duramax for going places. one of these days soon though I'm going to have to buy a new truck. but if I can hold off till may of 2019 I can drive my daughters jeep as she is going into the Marine Corps and wont be needing it for a while ;)

besides she driving the dodge now till I get her jeep motor rebuilt.

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Problem solved.

 

Battery was bad.

 

I went grocery shopping this morning, came home to put them away, and went to go to Pep Boys a couple blocks away. Truck wouldn't start....click...click...click...click..

 

I pulled the battery and was ready to lug it down the street to Pep Boys, but my neighbor saw me, and gave me a ride.

 

Got good value out of that 75 month battery before it expired.

 

Truck started like a champ, and stayed running. Apparently, the bad battery was throwing a false code, and that is what threw me off with the speed sensor problems. Hopefully that issue is solved.

 

Still have to tackle the transmission service.

 

Thanks for all the input.

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Good news. Chilton is ok for most stuff but Hanes have wiring diagrams. Way back in 2000 when I bought my truck I also had them include the factory shop manuals.

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Good news. Chilton is ok for most stuff but Hanes have wiring diagrams. Way back in 2000 when I bought my truck I also had them include the factory shop manuals.

I have a Chilton, but you can't beat a factory manual, when it comes to the comprehensive stuff.

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I made the mistake of checking the voltage on the battery after it had ru n for awhile, instead of a cold check.

 

The battery was draining fast, and barely holding enough charge to start the vehicle. The initial starting didnt have enough voltage to keep the vehicle running without keeping my foot on the gas. For some reason, I was relating that issue to the sensor, and should have just had the battery tested from the get go. I neglected to remember the age of the battery, until this thread.

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I made the mistake of checking the voltage on the battery after it had ru n for awhile, instead of a cold check.

 

The battery was draining fast, and barely holding enough charge to start the vehicle. The initial starting didnt have enough voltage to keep the vehicle running without keeping my foot on the gas. For some reason, I was relating that issue to the sensor, and should have just had the battery tested from the get go. I neglected to remember the age of the battery, until this thread.

the 97-2005 dodges and 97 2005 jeep Tjs have a huge problem with batteries and computer issues.(computer issues meaning bad connections or batt. trips them all up) it all boils down to the conections the battery and the grounds. they give false codes alot. the Jeep tj series has the exact same Computer in it as the dodge ram 1500 in those years. we had a problem with my daughters jeep and took my trucks pc and swapped them. problem went away(didnt run good because it was a 8cyl vs 6 cyl but the charging issue went away. when everyone said it was the Computer including 2 mechanics. The f'n computer is $1000-1800 bucks if you can find one from the dealer.

Oh just so your aware the regulator for the dodge just like the jeep is in the computer and they do burn out from time to time(rarely though). if it ever goes out cheapest fix is to get a aftermarket regulator and wire it in cost like 15-30 bucks takes 1 hour) your computer will still work on everything else too.

 

one key way to find the problem out is the radio (if its aftermarket mainly) is that you will loose settings. your amp gauge/volt gauge on the dash will normally read good. and you'll still get the problem..

I dont check batteries with volt meters cause you can get false readings., If i have a problem just drive it to autozone and have them load it up. make sure the batt. connections are good as well as the starter connections and a min of one ground wire from frame to motor.

 

Delw

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Ironically, I was ready to drive down to have the battery tested, when the battery finally decided it had enough.

 

When I installed the new one, I checked the battery cable ground connections, and they were good. I need to crawl under, and check the positive connection at the starter, just to make sure it is secure.

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Voltmeter will give an accurate reading of the volts but it can't load test the battery. A good load tester is very expensive so best to take it to an auto place.

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