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Question for Auto Mechanics

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I have the same truck but a 97. same problem

been driving me crazy for a while feels like a miss with a real heavy load. and it idles high and low than stalls sometimes

mines intermitant. does on me for days than quits and runs good.

I check for vacumm leaks and made sure the air cleaner was goo. guy told me it was the ventruri gasket or some bs like that around the intake( tahts one of the causes on the internet as well). I haven't tried that yet Because I had to put a new batt in it , and had some issues starting ie dead found out that my ground on the engine and frame were bad and missing and also my starter wires (positive ones) were loose on the start as well as the link between the 2..

might be worth a try.

been purring like a kitten since.(2 months now) I have 285,000k on it too.

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The leak combined with the slow crank makes me wonder if your torque conveter bushing is starting to seize up. Not comon but ive seen it happen.

It is possible. I really hope not.

 

There definitely seems to be some type of drag on the engine on start-up. I'm going to have the battery tested just to eliminate that possibility, and troubleshoot from there.

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Check the harness or connector at or near the speed sensor, trans fluid will cause bad connection, and it will eventually eat the harness.

Thanks. I did that very thing when I put in the new sensor. I cleaned the connector, and the pins to make sure there was no fluid on them.

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Check the harness or connector at or near the speed sensor, trans fluid will cause bad connection, and it will eventually eat the harness.

Thanks. I did that very thing when I put in the new sensor. I cleaned the connector, and the pins to make sure there was no fluid on them.
You might never see a bad wire, visually it might be damaged on the inside and the rubber conduit might be in perfect shape. Very odd about the slow crank issue though, does it restart normally after its warmed up? During you 10 min warm up period, hold the rpm at 800 or so and put it in gear.
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Delw is also correct. The intake gaskets could shrink a little overnight when the engine cools down. Then when started it will idle really bad when cold and swell back up and seal the vaccum leak at the intake and run good. But before going through the work of tearing the intake off I would replace the tps. Good luck. I hope you get it fixed.

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Check the harness or connector at or near the speed sensor, trans fluid will cause bad connection, and it will eventually eat the harness.

Thanks. I did that very thing when I put in the new sensor. I cleaned the connector, and the pins to make sure there was no fluid on them.
You might never see a bad wire, visually it might be damaged on the inside and the rubber conduit might be in perfect shape. Very odd about the slow crank issue though, does it restart normally after its warmed up? During you 10 min warm up period, hold the rpm at 800 or so and put it in gear.

Once the truck has been warmed up and driven for awhile, it will start fine. Once it sits for a little bit and cools off it cranks slow again.

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Delw is also correct. The intake gaskets could shrink a little overnight when the engine cools down. Then when started it will idle really bad when cold and swell back up and seal the vaccum leak at the intake and run good. But before going through the work of tearing the intake off I would replace the tps. Good luck. I hope you get it fixed.

In 2012, I had a vacuum leak. I pulled the manifold and replaced the plenum and intake gaskets. I also put on a new throttle body gasket. Thats not to say they might not be leaking again?

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Delw is also correct. The intake gaskets could shrink a little overnight when the engine cools down. Then when started it will idle really bad when cold and swell back up and seal the vaccum leak at the intake and run good. But before going through the work of tearing the intake off I would replace the tps. Good luck. I hope you get it fixed.

I am going to replace the TPS also. It's an inexpensive part, so it is worth a try.

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Some very mechanically inclined minds here.

 

I'm lucky I know how go change the oil, filter, and change a tire.

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I was hoping to get another year, or two, out of the truck, without major issues. Been debt free for 9 years, and not having truck payments is nice. Might have to go with a newer used vehicle at some point.

 

A couple cylinders are losing some compression, I know the motor is like me. Getting old and worn out. LOL. Found out the hard way, that the truck is cheaper to rebuild, than me.

 

Thanks for the replies.

 

I'm going to get dirty this weekend and see what I can accomplish.

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Spend the money for an hour of diag at a shop and not on flushing the trans.

The first episode I had with the trans sensor was 2009. I didn't have a DTC analyzer at the time. I took the truck to a shop in Sahuarita close to where I used to live, and paid them a diagnostic fee. They said it was the Trans speed sensor. They also qouted me 3-4 hours to fix it, at a cost of over $300.00.

 

I drove next door to Autzone, paid $20 for the part, and had it fixed in less than 10 minutes.

 

That shop was ripping off the Green Valley retirees, and they must have thought I was another sucker.

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Spend the money for an hour of diag at a shop and not on flushing the trans.

The first episode I had with the trans sensor was 2009. I didn't have a DTC analyzer at the time. I took the truck to a shop in Sahuarita close to where I used to live, and paid them a diagnostic fee. They said it was the Trans speed sensor. They also qouted me 3-4 hours to fix it, at a cost of over $300.00.

 

I drove next door to Autzone, paid $20 for the part, and had it fixed in less than 10 minutes.

 

That shop was ripping off the Green Valley retirees, and they must have thought I was another sucker.

Brake max on Thornydale tried that with me. Motor mounts for my commuter car, $400+. Walked next door to merels, $125 and paid someone $50 for install.

 

$400+ rotors/pads on my truck. $160 next door and a 30 pack to my best friend.

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