Arrow length opinion.

[Pac8541]

Id like an opinion from you guys/gals. This photo is at full draw and the half-out on the end of the shaft measures 1". Is there any reason why I shouldn't cut this shaft 1" shorter if that allows me to hit the numbers I'm after? Doing so would place the BH directly over the knuckles of my fingers. Thanks.

[creed]

Spine wouldn't change? I never liked a broadhead directly over my fingers. Just me though. I have seen guys shooting open handed with their fingers stuck out and a broadhead just a fraction of an inch away from them. It always bugged me.

 

I am probably overlooking something but go for it if the broadhead doesn't bother you.

[PseAZ]

If your going to be running a fixed blade Id just leave it. No since in running the blades closer to you hand. What numbers are you after?

[Pac8541]

Spine stiffening up is a non-issue for me, was mostly asking to ensure Im not committing a huge safety violation in doing so. Ive run them slightly shorter than this before but also never asked the question; I just did it. Zero experience having a shaft blow up on me or having an arrow fall off a rest although, that should be a non-issue also since mine captures the whole shaft.

 

Im a little OCD and the numbers Im trying to hit (total weight, FOC, speed) are splitting hairs by the time I consider a 1/2 here or there. Im over-analyzing the details but its how my brain works so, whatever. Appreciate the input. I think Im gonna cut em just to see how they fly.

[PseAZ]

In that case just do what your comfortable with. I usually run mine about a 3/4" past the rest but I shoot mechanicals. Ive never been worried about numbers myself I just shoot what works. my current hunting arrows are 380 grains, shooting 319 fps @ 67lbs haven't had a issue blowing through anything yet. A lot of it is shot placement. But if your that worried about it Id do what makes you feel solid about your set up. If your always second guessing yourself it makes it a lot harder to feel 100% when the time comes.

[Heat]

Unless the spine is way off like that I would go ahead and keep doing what you are doing. I also like a little extra out front. Good Luck!

[mattys281]

I always shoot mine with the broadhead past my knuckles and into the riser. I cut the arrows about 1 longer than where the rest contacts the arrow. You dont want the arrow cut too close to the rest because this will not allow you any room for adjustments when a.) your string stretches some and you have to twist it up or b.) you change strings and its not exactly the same as your last one. No two things are ever the same, so a little extra arrow can leave you room for adjustment down the road

[Pac8541]

I've been running all this through AA along the way and doing some measuring and weighing on my own confirms what I'm seeing there. AA shows the spine to be "moderate stiff," whatever that means. With what I've got I'm getting 460gr total weight and 259fps on the chrono. Not particularly fast but that isn't at the top of my priority list. And this may change as my bow is at the shop right now getting looked over. It appears the speed nocks on my string have moved from their original position and it feels like its drawing long. FOC is 4% different between AA's calculations and inputting measurements directly into archerycalculator.com: 19% from the former, 23% from the latter.

 

Black Eagle X-Impact 300 shafts, Eason Ti half-out inserts, 150gr broadhead, Flex Fletch FFP-300 vanes (4), standard nock. This recipe hits what I was after: a moderately heavy arrow (but lighter than previous builds), better speed than before, high foc, very strong components, micro diameter shaft.

 

But if your that worried about it Id do what makes you feel solid about your set up. If your always second guessing yourself it makes it a lot harder to feel 100% when the time comes.

TOTALLY agree with this. Confidence is huge in this endeavor and if something gives you more faith in your equipment and/or removes a distraction, most of the time its worth doing.

[PseAZ]

If for some reason you feel like your draw has changed you could also try a different size loop to tighten it up alittle. I try and do the K.I.S.S. Method. Just keep it simple and don't over think stuff. Usually that's what gets me, is mind games and second guessing. Usally its not the equipment its the nut behind the string. Sounds like your on the right track tho. Some people are geared that way so i'm not gunna knock ya for that. If its working then just keep with it, unless you cant get it to tune or something I personally wouldn't worry about the rest. anything 280+ is still moving. Still gotta hit the critter. Good luck tho man, assuming you got a few tags this year?

[Pac8541]

If for some reason you feel like your draw has changed you could also try a different size loop to tighten it up alittle. I try and do the K.I.S.S. Method. Just keep it simple and don't over think stuff. Usually that's what gets me, is mind games and second guessing. Usally its not the equipment its the nut behind the string. Sounds like your on the right track tho. Some people are geared that way so i'm not gunna knock ya for that. If its working then just keep with it, unless you cant get it to tune or something I personally wouldn't worry about the rest. anything 280+ is still moving. Still gotta hit the critter. Good luck tho man, assuming you got a few tags this year?

 

You're speaking my language, friend. I typically get wrapped around the axle about the smallest details and its something I have to specifically think about and avoid doing. Archery, fly fishing, and precision rifles, all of which are either passions or professional endeavors all lend themselves unapologetically to that personality trait. I get the bow back from the shop NLT tues morning and I don't expect to see a d-loop change; it wouldn't surprise me though to see a need for a 1/2" DL change.

 

No tags this year. Self-induced failure with regard to that (elk). But I am planning OTC in Co probably early Sept and OTC deer locally in Dec.