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apache12

Firing pin not striking primer hard enough to ignite

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So I had a rifle that only has about 200 rounds through it go from shooting really well to the last few groups spreading out unusually and then even worse the firing pin wouldn't strike hard enough to ignite the primer.

 

I though maybe it was my hand loads and I did something off. So I went and got factory box of federal premium ammo and same thing wouldn't fire. Just a very slight dimple in the primer

 

Prior to the factory load confirming of it still not sticking arc enough, I broke down the bolt and cleaned and light oil the spring.

 

Any thoughts on what I can try? Or smith to take it too? Rifle is out of warranty

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What kind of rifle is this? Can you drop the firing pin with the bolt out to measure pin protrusion? Could be something in the bolt not letting the pin drop completely. Degrease the firing pin and spring and only use a VERY light oil. Could be a broken spring if this is a heavy recoil caliber also.

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Tikka t3. 7mm-08. Light recoil.

I have degreased and light oil.

I don't understand what you mean about dropping the firinging pin with the bolt out

Do you mean I should break the bolt and remove the spring. And then drop the pin into the bolt without spring pressure? Measure the nipple of the pin protruding from bolt face?

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Why only light oil? When something doesn't work for me I usually oil the crap out of it. :)

 

Light oil when no crap is present, lots of oil to get the crap out of it.

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I am not familiar with the Tika but a Remington 700 would run an average of 0.050 protrusion on the pin. Did you measure 0.07 or 0.007? The later would result in a very light strike. I would disassemble the firing pin assembly, thoroughly clean the bolt where the pin slides through, clean the pin, inspect the spring, lightly oil the parts and reassemble it. I broke down a friends 700 that had similar symptoms and found a small piece of debris inside the bolt that was preventing proper movement of the firing pin. A little cleaning and it was good to go.

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Why only light oil? When something doesn't work for me I usually oil the crap out of it. :)

 

The more oil the more dust and junk have something to cling to. In the winter it can slow down the action as the oil will get thick. Take it apart and clean it good then spray it with WD40 Specialist and let is sit then use a can of air and blow it all off.

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I loaded 10 pieces of brass primer only. And half fired and half didn't

Could it be a trigger issue? Where the trigger has a sear or spring issue that is causing it to be intermittent?

Or should it polish the firing pin some so it slides smoother

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Had the same issue with an R700. Decreased the firing pin, spring, and inside of bolt body. No oil, reassembled.....boom. same thing with a Ruger M77.

 

Had another really old R700 that did the same thing, but wound up having to buy a new spring to make it work. I bought a Wolffe Blitzschnell and worked great afterwards.

 

Yet another needed a spring and new firing pin.

 

Start easy, then replace piece by piece.

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I have a Tikka T3 in 300wm. 3 years ago it did something similar to yours. A nice muley gave me that last second stop to look back at me. Raised the rifle up and "click". Nothing. When I cycled another round in, the one that came out a only a slight hit in the primer. It was approx 15 degrees that morning. Might have been thick oil. Cycled it a few times and fired the pin. 20 minutes later it worked fine on a different deer. Its never done that again but I have always wondered what happened.

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Any d greaser better than other? Just carb cleaner?

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I am partial to brake cleaner. It removes grease and oil very well and leaves no residue once it dries.

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Any d greaser better than other? Just carb cleaner?

 

90% rubbing alcohol or lighter fluid. No need to use CC.

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Just be careful with carb and brake cleaner around plastic or composite parts. It can melt or destroy it depending on the composition of products.

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