apache12 Report post Posted May 1, 2017 I watched a video showing a guy lapping his rings prior to mounting his scope. Got me to thinking if there are some tricks to the trade out there on scope mounting. I've always mounted my own and I use a level and the rifle is in a vise. I usually have paid most attention to the reticle being level and then the torque to specs with some locktite. Never lapped the rings though. anyone have a good do yourself step by step? Lance? you got some super high end glass, whats your process? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STOMP442 Report post Posted May 1, 2017 Lapping ensures that the scope rings have even pressure applied across the ring when tightened down. Depending on the mount set up and the rings used there can be quite a bit of binding that occurs on the scope which is never a good thing. Also, there are times when mount holes are not drilled inline and can also cause a binding issue. Lapping fixes these issues by removing material from the high spots or the spots that would cause the bind. Lapping is a step like bedding that never hurts but may not always be necessary. The easy way to fix these possible issues with scope mounting is using a set of Burris signature zee rings. They come with plastic inserts that not only protect your scope from scope marks but allows the scope to align perfectly centered without any binding and apply even pressure across the rings. They also come with different size inserts to apply cant to your scope like a 20 moa rail all while keeping the scope perfectly inline. Best rings made in my opinion and you never need to worry about lapping or ring marks on your high value optics. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lancetkenyon Report post Posted May 2, 2017 Usually the high end rings do not require lapping. Seekins, Badger Ordinance, American Rifle Co., etc. All I use are Seekins and Badger. Never, ever, had an issue with ring marks, scope damage or scope slip with them using proper torque. I use 2 different methods. I use the Wheeler levels (1 goes in the action on the bolt raceways, one on the top of the turret. I also use the playing card trick. Stack playing cards on top of your Picatinny rail, under the turret bell. Just enough for the scope to sit fairly tightly in the rings with the top straps finger tight. This helps keep the scope body level with the rail. As long as your reticle is not wanted in the scope, this really helps. Then, tighten the cap screws in a star pattern, like a truck tire. Start with 1/8 turn each, then finger tighten the next screw and continue the star pattern. Once they are all snugged, continue the star pattern with 1/8 turn until you start getting your clicks on the torque wrench @ 15-22 INCH/pounds (not FOOT/pounds, That is 1200% over torqued). Keep the star pattern until they are all tight to your required torque rating with turning even a tiny bit. Always keep checking your levels at each turn. Some rings seems to twist the scope more than others when you are torqueing screws. Verify reticle with the level and a know true vertical line at distance. I have a great steel pole that I use. Then remove the playing cards, which will be pretty tight to get out. I actually just did this twice this afternoon. With my Premier and a S&B. Always works fantastic for me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRDATR Report post Posted May 2, 2017 Certainly couldn't hurt to lap them. I just tighten the bases to 15" pounds and the rings to 10 and call it good after using calipers to confirm the rings are the same distance apart. I put some Burris Zee rings on a Savage before I gave it to my BIL and liked them Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KaibabHunter Report post Posted May 2, 2017 I used the wheeler scope mounting kit on my latest gun (new tikka) and my boys hand me down (Remington 721) with a new scope. Lapped the rings (both Leupold) and set the torque on the screws to specs. I'm not much of a gun guy but I did this for peace of mind to leaving no excuses for accuracy issues. Both guns are shooting sub moa with factory ammo so it didn't hurt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lancetkenyon Report post Posted May 2, 2017 Pure sexy. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
L Cazador Report post Posted May 3, 2017 Pure sexy. Lance it looks like that last 1/4 inch on your piccatiny rail might just be affecting your S&B, looks like it's touching. I'd chop that off and make sure there are no vibrations affecting that great scope, LOL! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
L Cazador Report post Posted May 3, 2017 Lap the rings and bed the bases, there is no better way to go. Then use a plump bob to verify your reticle is straight up and down! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lancetkenyon Report post Posted May 3, 2017 Picatinny rail does not contact scope objective bell. It is close, but I can slip a dollar between it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites