Green Bullet Report post Posted January 20, 2017 i need to pick up a few broadheads today so i'm going to check my FOC and chrono while i'm there. i think you guys convinced me to put new strings on it even though it's shooting pretty sweet right now after the aforementioned adjustments. i heard the hogwire strings are good. thoughts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
300RUM Report post Posted January 20, 2017 Has the bow been "paper tuned"? That is a great way to tell if the arrow is leaving the bow straight. If the arrow doesn't launch straight it will do strange things in flight. There is also a flow chart based on knock low, high, left or right tears to correct minor misadjustments in knock height or rest adjustment. there are different charts for right and left hand shooters. Use the correct one or you will drive yourself crazy. I haven't heard of hogwire strings. I think archery is 50% skill, 40% science and 10% witchcraft. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattys281 Report post Posted January 20, 2017 Theres about a million string makers now, many of whom have diehard followers. Ive been using winners choice for about 15 years and have no interest in switching. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
forepaw Report post Posted January 20, 2017 You are on the right track with considering a heavier field tip and broadhead. See if you can borrow a few, and number your arrows, then shoot groups at normal ranges. There may be a slight advantage with one weight over another. It might not be apparent right away, but keep shooting, and set aside the arrows that are consistently out of the group. At some point you will see that under most conditions and ranges, one weight will shoot better than the other. I have struggled with this myself, as I am right on the edge of the chart for spine and draw weight. I have one bow that shoots better with 125 gr. and one that shoots better with 100 gr. - small differences can show up by using different weight tips. Sometimes only a few pounds of draw weight or a different brand of arrow can do it. If you are lucky, you will find that one weight will shoot much worse, or much better. Then you can move on to other things like, grip, form, follow through, etc. forepaw Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Green Bullet Report post Posted January 20, 2017 Has the bow been "paper tuned"? That is a great way to tell if the arrow is leaving the bow straight. If the arrow doesn't launch straight it will do strange things in flight. There is also a flow chart based on knock low, high, left or right tears to correct minor misadjustments in knock height or rest adjustment. there are different charts for right and left hand shooters. Use the correct one or you will drive yourself crazy. I haven't heard of hogwire strings. I think archery is 50% skill, 40% science and 10% witchcraft. we shot it through paper today and it was perfect. i chrono'd it as well...only 241 fps....ughh. After this archery hunt is over i'm going to put new strings on it, crank it up to 70lbs draw weight, and put a 3 sight slider (already on order) and redial it in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pac8541 Report post Posted January 22, 2017 Just learned the timing was off and my draw at dropped from 65 to 62. Reset everything so I'm hopeful the groups tighten up. If the cams were out of time regardless of the reason, that'll eff up your flight more than spine or a 3lb drop in draw weight. Hopefully when your shop or whoever fixed the timing issue, they also went through the whole bow and tuned it up. Paper or walk back tuning is worthless if the basics of cams, arrow rests, nocks, etc aren't already "zeroed." And addressing those after the fact destroys whatever tuning you did while trying to shoot bullet holes. According to every chart and online ballistic program I've used, I'm way overspined. But the proof is in the pudding: 300 spine shafts shoot way better for me than those in the 330-350 range where everything says I should be. Don't forget also that making changes to heads and fletching and FOC, etc, etc all impact an arrow's spine. So what you end up with may be considerably different than what you started with. "Load development" gets expensive, fast. Fortunately, places like Lancaster allow me to order single shafts to T&E before building a full dozen or 2. Buy a jig, pick a BH you trust, then play with it over the next few months. Fun. Regarding Hogwire strings, I put one on my E35 last summer. The thing's been fantastic and I'll keep using his strings for the foreseeable future. Shoots great, no stretch, endless color choices, and great CS. They're also reasonably priced in your choice of materials. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lazy-H98 Report post Posted February 9, 2017 Normally you gain draw weight when the string stretch. You lose draw weight when the cables stretch +1 on getting hit by the new string, string stretch and draw weight increase (like 8#'s) last July. My shoulder did not like it! I learned the hard way before getting it checked...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
