Jazz Report post Posted January 16, 2017 I've rebuilt my above ground well components a few times I. The past 8 years. Not hard work but it sucks not having the essential water! So far my unground is ok. Can I ask where abouts you live and how old your well is? We're 350' down and I think 120' in water. We're in New River- by Wranglers Roost. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jazz Report post Posted January 16, 2017 How old is your well and when was it last cleaned. I pulled many irrigation wells in the Hatch Valley. Most submersible wells come with the wiring attached to them to keep them waterproof. So for your well you would order pump with 225 feet of wiring. If you don't tape the wiring to the pipe it is possible to pinch the wire and after time you lose voltage /amperage to the pump due to insulation degrading. Might as well have your well cleaned if you are putting a new pump in it. Sediment will build up at the bottom of the well making it less effective. I think it's built around '98.. I have no idea when it was cleaned.. I'm thinking never if it followed the upkeep the house had! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jazz Report post Posted January 16, 2017 The weird of it is- it seems to be holding around 6-700 gallons, and that's around the last float. I wonder if that has something to do with it. I had pulled the float system up out of the holding tank and made each 'click'. No more water poured out though.. Sure enough, shut the pump off/on and the system pumped water for 30 seconds.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Sparky Report post Posted January 16, 2017 About 20 years on a submersible pump I bet the pump is going out. Most of those pumps have an automatic resetting thermal overload to keep from melting the pump. If you were running the pump without any tank or floats it should run 24/7 or until the thermal overload kicked the pump out. You can run an ohm test to see if the windings are shorting out on the pump before pulling it. As far as cleaning it the casing will be rusting and flakes falling into the bottom of the well. It also depends on sediment build up and how hard the water in the well is. So I bet the bottom of your casing is about 230 feet. You pump probably sits 10-20 ft off the bottom of the well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjl2010 Report post Posted January 17, 2017 Know anybody with a megger? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
muledeerarea33? Report post Posted January 17, 2017 About 20 years on a submersible pump I bet the pump is going out. Most of those pumps have an automatic resetting thermal overload to keep from melting the pump. If you were running the pump without any tank or floats it should run 24/7 or until the thermal overload kicked the pump out. You can run an ohm test to see if the windings are shorting out on the pump before pulling it. As far as cleaning it the casing will be rusting and flakes falling into the bottom of the well. It also depends on sediment build up and how hard the water in the well is. So I bet the bottom of your casing is about 230 feet. You pump probably sits 10-20 ft off the bottom of the well. how do you test ohms of the pump without pulling it? Wire takes resistance. Is there a guide or way of telling the pump windings are bad without knowing the wire and connection condition? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjl2010 Report post Posted January 17, 2017 About 20 years on a submersible pump I bet the pump is going out. Most of those pumps have an automatic resetting thermal overload to keep from melting the pump. If you were running the pump without any tank or floats it should run 24/7 or until the thermal overload kicked the pump out. You can run an ohm test to see if the windings are shorting out on the pump before pulling it. As far as cleaning it the casing will be rusting and flakes falling into the bottom of the well. It also depends on sediment build up and how hard the water in the well is. So I bet the bottom of your casing is about 230 feet. You pump probably sits 10-20 ft off the bottom of the well. how do you test ohms of the pump without pulling it? Wire takes resistance. Is there a guide or way of telling the pump windings are bad without knowing the wire and connection condition? You can meggor it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
muledeerarea33? Report post Posted January 17, 2017 So if 5 out of ten strands of wires are corroded at a connection, the meggor will tell if it's a winding or a corroded wire? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjl2010 Report post Posted January 17, 2017 Ahh a whole day of coors light. It will not tell you if a wire is corroded. But you can ohm it without pulling and make sure from the begging what your resistance to ground is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
muledeerarea33? Report post Posted January 17, 2017 Good info. I don't deal with A/C voltage much but D/C voltage is my livelihood lol. Just curious if testing is similar as far as resistance. And I'm a bourbon man myself, I'll let you have the silver bullet. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjl2010 Report post Posted January 17, 2017 dang DC!! Devil current 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
muledeerarea33? Report post Posted January 17, 2017 Hybrid cars..... Will kill you, with amperage!!! Hahaha!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Sparky Report post Posted January 17, 2017 Doing an ohms test is easy but a meggor is better. If you know you have 212 feet to the pump, say with #4 stranded wire, look up the resistance for #4 stranded wire (usually it is per 1000 feet) and figure what it should be for 212 feet. Add that to the resistance you should be getting from the motor. example made up from the top of my head for a 3 phase motor: Resistance of wire .05 ohms; Resistance of windings .25 ohms; so each phase (A,B,C) to ground should be open. If you are reading any resistance between a phase and ground you have a short. Phase A to B, B to C, and A to C should be; .05 ohms+.05 ohms +.25 ohms =.35 ohms. Usually one phase will be off from the others showing you have a problem with the wire or the motor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Sparky Report post Posted January 17, 2017 Hybrid cars..... Will kill you, with amperage!!! Hahaha!! All electricity kills you with amperage, not voltage. I am sure lots of people have been hit with 10,000 volts at less than .005 amps------just go touch an electric fence sometime. Edit: Or get hit by a taser 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
muledeerarea33? Report post Posted January 17, 2017 Hybrid cars..... Will kill you, with amperage!!! Hahaha!! All electricity kills you with amperage, not voltage. I am sure lots of people have been hit with 10,000 volts at less than .005 amps------just go touch an electric fence sometime. Edit: Or get hit by a taser was just humor, and yes I've been on the receiving end of an electric fence, hei ignition, and 240 lol, wakes you up for sure!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
