The Well, The Pump, and the Ugly

[Jazz]

So- I think my submersible pump is on the way out.

 

The pump isn't keeping up with the demand, and the 2500 holding tank is dropping pretty fast. I'm fairly sure I'm going to have to get it replaced. I looked online at the AZ Dept of Water Quality and found out that it's 200 ft deep with a 198ft drop pipe and a 7" casing..

 

And then I notice that the water level is at 30ft. The neighbors have similar figures.

 

And being so new to this.. why would you drill 212 ft deep if the water level is at 30? Is that just all the water in the pipe that's going to get drained once the pump kicks in?

 

 

[Snapshot]

Our well in Sahuarita was 300. You want to drill deeper than what a possible drought would diminish the water table.

 

I have helped replace a pump, and it sucked.

[MULEPACKHUNTER]

200 is pretty short, you want to get down in the middle of the water column so that's why, I bet the bottom is 400 or so. Plus if the level fluctuates you would lose water in dry years if it was too high.

[Jazz]

200 is pretty short, you want to get down in the middle of the water column so that's why, I bet the bottom is 400 or so. Plus if the level fluctuates you would lose water in dry years if it was too high.

That makes sense. Thanks!

 

Yeah.. replacing this weekend. I'm hoping that's all it is.

[Shooter McGavin]

Possible factors on low flow:

-water table has dropped, you can check to see if the pump is surging when filling the tank

-hole(s) in drop pipe (pull pump replace as needed)

-faulty pump/motor (check the amperage while running, determine what HP the motor is and verify the amp reading). Your control box should state this info on the cover if it is single phase.

 

I'm sure the well driller made the determination on how deep to drill from other wells within the area. If the pump is set that low near the bottom then it could just be a low flowing well, their is nothing you can do about that and the depth it is set at, that is probably why you have a storage tank so you can keep up with your demand with the use of a booster pump/psi tank.

 

If the water is really bad and you have steel casing, you may have plugged casing slits. The pump would have to be pulled, well videoed to determine the condition of casing and then brushed and bailed, or have the casing sonar jetted, both are not cheap.

 

With the casing being 7", you might be able to drill deeper but your casing size would be reduced to possible 4"-5" in diameter to fit inside the existing. Then you would need to see if your existing sub pump is capable of being lowered and have enough HP to pump the water to the surface. A larger HP pump along with possible larger subm cable will be needed as well.

 

Good luck, hopefully it is a cheap fix.

[Jazz]

It has weird symptoms.

 

If I shut it off, and then on, (fuse box) it'll run for 30 seconds. Shut off is crisp. If I leave it off for 4 hours, it'll run for 2 and a half minutes. It'll never run to where it needs to - to fill the tank.

 

Capacitor is shot- so he used a known good control box. Same result.. I think we have to pull it at this point.

[Shooter McGavin]

ouch, at least it isn't to deep for labor costs. A pump company can definitely pull/reinstall in 1 day for sure. Most of the residential subm Grundfos and Goulds pumps along with the Franklin motors should have a 5 yr warranty. Maybe save a few bucks if it is under warranty.

[AzPlumber]

What type of "tank is full" shut off do you have? Is it working properly?

[Jazz]

We have two or three float switches in the tank. Well guy tested them out- I'm pretty sure. I wouldn't know exactly where to start with them.

[deercrazy]

I would make sure the pressure switch is working properly,and check everything out before pulling the well.

[Shooter McGavin]

I would make sure the pressure switch is working properly,and check everything out before pulling the well.

 

If well pump fills a storage tank then there is no need for psi switch on the well pump, there would be one on the inline booster unless system is gravity fed to house/barn final destination .

[AzPlumber]

 

I would make sure the pressure switch is working properly,and check everything out before pulling the well.

If well pump fills a storage tank then there is no need for psi switch on the well pump, there would be one on the inline booster unless system is gravity fed to house/barn final destination .

 

 

Actually if the tank fill line has a mechanical float it would need a pressure switch to shut off well pump.

[muledeerarea33?]

I've rebuilt my above ground well components a few times I. The past 8 years. Not hard work but it sucks not having the essential water! So far my unground is ok. Can I ask where abouts you live and how old your well is? We're 350' down and I think 120' in water.

[Speedy]

There are many reasons why your well is deep. In addition to what others have said about water levels generally the deeper you go the older and better quality the water. Stuff on the land surface like pesticides and other chemicals are carried down to the water table with rainwater, so it makes sense that the surface of the water is the most contaminated. In fact you can date groundwater by looking for man made chemicals like radioactive tritium from the nuclear bomb testing in the 1950s.

[Red Sparky]

How old is your well and when was it last cleaned. I pulled many irrigation wells in the Hatch Valley. Most submersible wells come with the wiring attached to them to keep them waterproof. So for your well you would order pump with 225 feet of wiring. If you don't tape the wiring to the pipe it is possible to pinch the wire and after time you lose voltage /amperage to the pump due to insulation degrading.

 

Might as well have your well cleaned if you are putting a new pump in it. Sediment will build up at the bottom of the well making it less effective.