Looking to get back into bow hunting

[218buck]

After 3 shoulder surgeries I quit shooting my bow but it seems like the new bows are getting faster and faster I have killed over 20 animals with a bow but that was over 10 years ago I was wondering if I could get some help on some recommendations on some bows for hunting thanks for the help also arrow and broad head info would be appreciated

[Snapshot]

With today's technology, even lower poundage bows are fast. Perfect for people with shoulder and elbow problems. Even Ted Nugent shoots bows in the 50# draw weights, and he shoots dozens of animals a year.

 

I have been shooting PSE for many years.. PSE Brute X, . A/C/C Arrows, and 125 grain thunderheads. I'm switching to the Montec G5 broadheads.

 

But I'm not an archery expert

[mattys281]

Seems like theres so many good manufacturers anymore, its really kind of overwhelming. Im not a real fanboy of any manufacturer over the other, but I'd say dont get wrapped up in the speed craze. I would not buy anything with less than 6" brace height or shorter than 32" axle to axle. I have a 29" draw length and have tried shooting a 30" bow and in my opinion it was too short and had too sharp of a string angle at full draw, it made for a very harsh unforgiving shot.

 

I personally like an arrow set up that shoots about 270-280 fps. For me that seems like a good compromise between being fairly flat shooting, forgiving and quiet.

 

As for broadheads, stay away from anything with aluminum in it. There are a lot of all steel heads out that offer very real advantages. First, no matter what the advertiser says, absolutely nothing with aluminum in it is ever going to hold up as well as a steel head if it hits bone. Also, steel heads typically have a much shorter profile which means they dont change the overall length, spine and f.o.c. of your arrow as much as an aluminum one (compared to field points), so they are easier to make group with your field points.

[cjl2010]

Go to every bow shop and shoot all the bows you can!!! I bought my bow in 2008 and I love everything about it. Find something that fits you and the least of your worries should be fps!!

[ready2hunt]

I'd have to agree with the above meantioned, even your off brand bows that are made by the bigger manufacturers will be good and can produce sufficient kinetic energy even at lower poundage. Before he got out of compound bow hunting my father was in the same situation- we found the off brands were every bit as good as the higher ends one at lower poundage as long as he kept his shots at 50 yards or under. (And it saved him a ton of $$$

2 years ago I tried/paid for more broadheads than I care to admit to decide for myself. (Yes you can kill with a rock as long as the shot placement is right but these are just my suggestions)

My suggestions:

Mechanical- hands down swhacker 2 blade. Only slightly more durable than every other mechanical (not enough to care about) but NEVER failed on impact or through bone. Yes they can bend like others but they Always preform. My last Kiabab hunt it literally cut an entire shoulder roast at a quarter shot. Deer never ran.

Fixed: many of your popular brands are good and it's just personal preference. And will fly like feild points as long as you aren't making really far shots and the bow is properly tuned. I opted for muzzy's because I could get so many as a cheap price on Amazon.

[wish2hunt]

After 3 shoulder surgeries I quit shooting my bow but it seems like the new bows are getting faster and faster I have killed over 20 animals with a bow but that was over 10 years ago I was wondering if I could get some help on some recommendations on some bows for hunting thanks for the help also arrow and broad head info would be appreciated

My wife shoots a mathews passion @46 pounds and she got about 24 inches of penetration on her bull.

[Snapshot]

Seems like theres so many good manufacturers anymore, its really kind of overwhelming. Im not a real fanboy of any manufacturer over the other, but I'd say dont get wrapped up in the speed craze. I would not buy anything with less than 6" brace height or shorter than 32" axle to axle. I have a 29" draw length and have tried shooting a 30" bow and in my opinion it was too short and had too sharp of a string angle at full draw, it made for a very harsh unforgiving shot.

 

I personally like an arrow set up that shoots about 270-280 fps. For me that seems like a good compromise between being fairly flat shooting, forgiving and quiet.

 

As for broadheads, stay away from anything with aluminum in it. There are a lot of all steel heads out that offer very real advantages. First, no matter what the advertiser says, absolutely nothing with aluminum in it is ever going to hold up as well as a steel head if it hits bone. Also, steel heads typically have a much shorter profile which means they dont change the overall length, spine and f.o.c. of your arrow as much as an aluminum one (compared to field points), so they are easier to make group with your field points.

+1, on the brace height, and axle to axle length

 

Lots of great bows on the market. I bought my Brute X new, from a fellow member almost 4 years ago. It had great reviews as being the best value bow under $600. A good blend of everything I was looking for in a bow.

 

Regardless of what brand you choose, look for a good fitting bow, with value. I can't afford those $1000 plus, bows. As nice as they are.

[Red Sparky]

I would go to the shop and find the bow that is most comfortable to you. I shoot a Hoyt but that was the best bow for me as I am not set on one brand. I bought me daughter a Bowtech Diamond mainly for the adjustability as she grows. As far as broad heads I shoot 100 grain Slick Tricks. I tuned me bow and they shoot tight out to 60 yards but I shoot daily in my backyard.

[Explorer]

Get a entry level bow that has good ratings and then buy the best rest and sight you can. After arrows and broad heads, targets and all your still gonna spend 7-8 hundred bucks to get everything you need.

[bojangles]

I'd have to agree with the above meantioned, even your off brand bows that are made by the bigger manufacturers will be good and can produce sufficient kinetic energy even at lower poundage. Before he got out of compound bow hunting my father was in the same situation- we found the off brands were every bit as good as the higher ends one at lower poundage as long as he kept his shots at 50 yards or under. (And it saved him a ton of $$$

 

2 years ago I tried/paid for more broadheads than I care to admit to decide for myself. (Yes you can kill with a rock as long as the shot placement is right but these are just my suggestions)

 

My suggestions:

 

Mechanical- hands down swhacker 2 blade. Only slightly more durable than every other mechanical (not enough to care about) but NEVER failed on impact or through bone. Yes they can bend like others but they Always preform. My last Kiabab hunt it literally cut an entire shoulder roast at a quarter shot. Deer never ran.

 

Fixed: many of your popular brands are good and it's just personal preference. And will fly like feild points as long as you aren't making really far shots and the bow is properly tuned. I opted for muzzy's because I could get so many as a cheap price on Amazon.

 

not to hijack here, but i just bought two packs of shwackers, 1 3/4" 100 grain, for my elk hunt. i'm hoping they do well. i bought them because i like how the blade is fully contained in the ferrule (sp?) , like the ulmer edges used to be. i've suffered in years past from bad broadhead flight. they look like good fliers, hopefully they are good cutters, too.

 

i'm shooting a decently fast set up, a 2015 pse premonition HD, 70 pounds, 29", with 7.9 gpi easton hexx. hopefully thats enough to get it done on an elk.

 

have you had any experience with the shwackers on elk?

 

thx.

[oz31p]

most of the bows out there are pretty good.you welcome to test drive my elite. As for broad heads. I've had success with slick tricks and grave diggers. But to be honest they would have to stop making grave diggers for me to stop using them. The last few animals I've shot with them were absolutely poll axed.

[ready2hunt]

Bokangles: they would be my absolute first choice for an elk hunt. I have yet to punch an elk with them yet but I have been calling for family/friends that have and the entrance/exit holes are unreal. You would think they would be small but have not seen an animal drop with less than a 5-6" entrance hole. My quartering shot in Kiabab looked like I had put a sword in it. The skin just tears open like a zipper. My fixed blades are just my back ups.

 

In full disclosure I do have have to switch the blades often due to bending on bone but the blades are still razor sharp and I have yet to replace a ferrule or tip. I have been nothing but impressed with their performance. I will never hunt elk with anything else. Order some replacements blades ahead of time.

[hoghntr]

After 3 shoulder surgeries I quit shooting my bow but it seems like the new bows are getting faster and faster I have killed over 20 animals with a bow but that was over 10 years ago I was wondering if I could get some help on some recommendations on some bows for hunting thanks for the help also arrow and broad head info would be appreciated

Today's speed bows with rock solid walls BUT ZERO valley are to blame for so many bicep tendon years is kinda ridiculous. Go with a 60lb Bow max and or a 50 that maxes at 52'ish. No sure your condition but I ended up with crossbow permit and I just pretend it's a vertical Bow. but I do know a valley is super important! Go to a archery shop and watch how many seasoned archers have their bows rip into them when it creeps a dang tiny bit and almost rips arm off- it has gotten stupid! 1 save-meaning you stop string from taking off could easily tear bicep tendon / labrum / rotator cuff TRUST ME ON THIS.. A little sponge can save you and your Shoulder.

 

I wish you luck! Maybe look into crossbow permit, my doc said "give me the **** paper to sign im sick of you tearing up my work"