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Zeke-BE

Truck tire load ratings

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I have a f 250 that weighs in at 9900 lbs. My last tires were E walls. My mech. pointed out that they sold me D walls on my new tires. Both tires were the Hankook Dynopro LT315/ 70/ 17. My new D wall are 50 psi max and load range is 3,150 lbs a tire. This should put me 675 lbs per tire extra. My camper trailer when loaded is around 10-12lbs. Are these tires good?

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Never personally ran those tires, but Hankook does make good tires. You need to keep in mind not just total weight, but also weight distribution, number of passengers plus all the gear either in the cab or in the bed, and then the tongue weight of your trailer.

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I have a 2006 Dodge quad cab with the 5.9 Cummins. I run with a Bigfoot cab over camper and tow a 20' aluminum Jon boat. I'm very careful to always run E rated tires. I'm currently running Goodyear 325 60 18 Wrangler Pro Grade. It's a heavy camper and I don't want to take chances.

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It depends on how much weight you carry most of the time and the air pressure that you usually run in the tires. The D tires are marginal when your truck is at max load but will be better when the truck is unloaded and the air pressure is 50 # or less. If you are using the truck a lot on dirt roads the lower air pressure will give a better ride and more traction. The E tires will make more heat if they are run at lower pressures than the D tires and heat is the enemy for tire life. The opposite is true if the D tires are run at near max weight at 50#, they will build more heat in the tire. Everything is a compromise.

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E also has a thicker sidewall. I run them on my f150. Little rougher ride but more peace of mind when towing my trailer.3/4 ton or bigger is a no brainer for 10 ply (E). .My .02

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i would say you definitely want to run E rated tires on anything bigger than a half ton, especially on diesel trucks. i always run them on half tons as well. i would imagine tire life would be terrible on a D rated tire on a 3/4 ton truck

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I run E's on my 3/4 ton truck. I ran D's in the past when I was running a lot of highway miles with no loads and it was fine, but now that I have the potential to tow more often I always use E rated.

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Don't risk it!

 

Take them back to the shop who sold them to you.

Explain to the manager that you made it VERY clear what the tires were going to be used for.

Keep up updated. ...

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Don't risk it!

 

Take them back to the shop who sold them to you.

Explain to the manager that you made it VERY clear what the tires were going to be used for.

Keep up updated. ...

Problem is that i picked them up probably 4 months ago. They are rated for a 3/4 truck but im almost peaked with the rating. So i guess in their defense they sold me something that can be used. And me not being informed enough about tires didn't asked about E walls. I don't know how i feel about asking a refund on a 4 month old tire. Ill go try and ask if they do a trade in value. Maybe sell it back for a lower cost, or I might have to say this one was a dumb stupid tax on myself and lesson learn and try to sell it on craiglist. Unless anyone is looking for a LT315 / 70 / 17". Ill even consider selling the rims with it too. Tires in great shape. Ill get back and what the tire company says. 100 dollars for a tire and 50 for a rim. So either 400 for the tires or 600 for everythingpost-12761-0-49767300-1471468075_thumb.jpg

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If they replaced load range E tires and did not tell you they were selling you a lower weight range, then I'd bark as high up the food chain as I had to in order to get a full refund.

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If you bought at Discount Tire just keep bitching to the next guy up the chain. They will make it right.

 

Have you put your truck on a scale to confirm that 9,900lb weight is actual weight? I would be willing to bet your actual curb weight is less than that even if it is a diesel. You are probably in the 7-8K range and more of that weight will be on the front tires because of the weight of the diesel.

 

Realistically your trailer should only add about 1,000-1,500lbs of payload to your truck because the tongue weight is the only weight the tires are supporting. The other 10,000 lbs should be supported by the trailer's tires. Make sure your tongue weight isn't to high and you most likely won't have too many issues, but E rated is the way to go on all trucks over 1/2 ton IMO.

 

Harley

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If you bought at Discount Tire just keep bitching to the next guy up the chain. They will make it right.

 

Have you put your truck on a scale to confirm that 9,900lb weight is actual weight? I would be willing to bet your actual curb weight is less than that even if it is a diesel. You are probably in the 7-8K range and more of that weight will be on the front tires because of the weight of the diesel.

 

Realistically your trailer should only add about 1,000-1,500lbs of payload to your truck because the tongue weight is the only weight the tires are supporting. The other 10,000 lbs should be supported by the trailer's tires. Make sure your tongue weight isn't to high and you most likely won't have too many issues, but E rated is the way to go on all trucks over 1/2 ton IMO.

 

Harley

It was at discount

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Yeah I think if you go up the chain at discount they would change over the tire. All the times they've suggested tires for my 2500HD it was always E rated, so I'm guessing it may have been a mistake on their part. Maybe a new employee?

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