Recurve help

[300 wsm]

I just started shooting a recurve this year, and plan on hunting with it during archery season. I have been shooting the gold tip carbons that look like wood, because they were a little heavier. They are tipped with 100gr points, and four inch feathers with a right handed helical. Well I was shooting pretty good out to thirty yards. Then today I figured I would trim my arrows down by about five inches, because they were full length size arrows. Now they are kicking very badly and not grouping worth a crap when I shoot. Is there anything you traditional guys could run by me to help me get them tuned before I go and buy some more full length arrows.

[firstcoueswas80]

It sounds like you need to shoot a heavier grain per inch arrow.

[Kevin]

Craig,

 

When you cut the arrows off you effectively increased the spine dramatically. The shorter the arrow, the stiffer it is. The only way I know of to reduce your "dynamic" spine at this point is to add weight to the front of the arrow. Since you're shooting the Gold Tip traditional you can buy their brass weights that screw into the back of the inserts as well as shoot heavier broadheads. I shoot the 55-75 GT Traditional out of my 58 lb @29 inch recurve. My arrows are cut to 30 inches with 100 grains of brass weights and a 125 head on the front of the arrow. Generally you can tune the arrow to fly straight if you buy arrows that are underspined (too limber) and then trim 1/4" at a time until the unfletched arrow flies true. However, you may end up with 5 inches of arrow hanging over the back of the bow. (For you non traditional archers, that's the part facing the target). Since you've already cut them off, your only options are to add weight to the front or buy new arrows.

 

I would suggest downloading Easton's tuning guide and learning how to tune your arrows to your bow. Basically you shoot 3 fletched arrows and 3 unfletched (w/ field points NOT BROADHEADS) and compare where the groups are. By changing the spine of the arrow and the nocking point on the string you can make the groups come together. Once the groups come together, shoot 3 fletched arrows with broadheads and 3 fletched with field points. Most likey they will group in different places as well. Fine tune as described in the Easton instructions to get these groups together and you'll have excellent flight as well as maximum accuracy and penetration from your arrows.

 

That said, you may not be able to ever get these arrows to shoot at this point. What spine (35-55 etc.) and what is your draw weight at your draw? You can only add so much weight to the front before you have problems with trajectory.

 

Casey, heavier or lighter arrows won't fix the flight problems unless the weight is in the right spot. If the arrow was to limber, adding weight to the rear of the arrow by adding the brass weights to the aluminum nock adapter that GT has would make it stiffer. However, more or less G.P.I. won't help. This problem is all spine related.

 

Good luck Craig. You're running out of time for the early hunt this year for this kind of problem. If I can be of any more help let me know.

 

Kevin

[firstcoueswas80]

Figured i would be way off, but decided to take a stab at it!

[Red Rabbit]

In addition to Kevin's good, informative response, here is a link to bare shaft tuning your bow to get the arrow to the right length to give the correct spine.

http://brackenburybows.com/Tuning%20Tips.htm

You can also do a search on the Leatherwall forum of http://stickbow.com/

 

Basically, start with a bare shaft (no fletch) and shoot into a foam target at 25 yards.

If the nock is pointed to the right, the arrow is too stiff. You will need a longer arrow, or a weaker shaft, or a heavier point.

If the nock is pointed to the left, the arrow is too weak. Cut off 1/2" at a time until it flies tru and enters the foam straight. Or try a stiffer shaft, or a lighter point.

 

It does appear you will be buying a new dozen arrows.

 

Doug~RR

[coueshunter84]

When tuning the recurve my daughter shot with, I got lucky and just playing with the head weight was all I needed. But what an eyeopener to figure out how to tune a stick bow. Took me a long time and several trips to various websites to get it accomplished. good luck.

[300 wsm]

Thanks guys. I appreciate all the input.

[Canyon]

Best site for tuning Traditional gear is at www.bowmaker.net OL's method works great but do not expect to take any shortcuts.

[Redbeard]

I shoot a Morrison Dakota longbow 58#. I use easton epics 400 30" long and a 125 gr Wensel Woodsman broadhead with a 100gr steel insert. Flys great. The steel broadhead inserts are the ticket. The Woodsmans are devastating too.