Coach Report post Posted November 1, 2015 I've been building a 6.5 x 284 Norma off a Savage 110 action. Starting completely from scratch, I rebarreled the Savage action with a Shilen heavy sporter. When mounting the barrel I used Nosler unfired brass to set the headspace. I got to where it was tight using unfired brass, and no-go with masking tape on the back of the same brass. But when I ran once-fired brass through a full length RCBS resize die, they wouldn't seat. I determined that it wasn't the case length, but the start of the shoulder that was the problem. Just tinkering around I also found that if I shaved around 10/1000 off the #3 shell holder and cranked the resizing die as tight as I could, I could get the resized brass to cycle. The die I'm using is for 284 Win, which is the correct die according to RCBS, Redding, Forster and others. So the question is, is my headspace too tight? And if so, why does it load unfired brass and factory loads with no problem but has an issue with resized brass? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KeithV Report post Posted November 1, 2015 coach i bet stomp 442 can help he has built quite a few of those Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rcdinaz Report post Posted November 1, 2015 First I would call RCBS it could be the die is out of spec (not likely but maybe) they may straight up replace it just as a courtesy. You could order a shoulder bump die and a body die. This will avoid the bottoming out issue and let you very specifically move the shoulder back. The body die alone may remove the tightness so start there. With the shoulder bump starting at 0.001 and using the same increment moving it back until it cycles and write it down, and create an indicator mark on the die and press so it is always correct. Probably no need to say it but every time you reset your die run a test case through all steps in you process and make sure it cycles before you do final loading just in case something moves. Check out this link: http://www.scout.com/military/snipers-hide/forums/5532-reloading/14117194-anyone-ever-had-any-issues-with-1x-brass If there are still issues then the best solution would be to send Redding a couple fired cases and have custom die made. This costs a lot more but it is almost always the best solution. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike S Report post Posted November 1, 2015 I'd track down a set of headspace gauges. The unfired brass could easily be a little short. Once chamber is verified I'd start looking at dies. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Couzer Report post Posted November 1, 2015 PM southernexpress, he's pretty good with those questions Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
STOMP442 Report post Posted November 1, 2015 The way I do mine is use a piece of .003" thick piece of feeler gauge super glued to the back of the case for my no go. Make sure you remove the extractor and ejector from the bolt head to make sure you get a positive feel on the case and not the ejector / extractor. If that doesn't work you could have a die out of spec which happens from time to time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coues7 Report post Posted November 1, 2015 I'd track down a set of headspace gauges. The unfired brass could easily be a little short. Once chamber is verified I'd start looking at dies. Definitely follow this advice. I would never do a re-barrel on Savage without a go/no-go gauge. For $60 a set can be had and it will make your life much easier. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rcdinaz Report post Posted November 2, 2015 If all my junk wasn't in storage waiting for the move into the new place I would loan you my 6.5 dies but I can't get to them right now. See if anyone you know has a set you can run a couple of cases full length through and if there is any difference. Cheapest way to check your die I know of. The headspace gauge is solid advice but I skipped that because you said the gun chambers new brass just fine which means the chamber has pretty much got to be in spec. Nosler brass is amazingly uniform and consistent in my experience. They actually machine flash holes and case mouths on their new brass, it is fantastic stuff! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach Report post Posted November 14, 2015 A little update on this. I've fired a few rounds out of my gun and put them back through the resizing dies with a standard #3 shell holder, and they all cycle perfectly. The gun we shot the first few out of was built by a local gunsmith. The ones that were tight in our builds had no problem in that rifle, but the ones fired from it had issues resizing. I'm thinking the headspace on that rifle is a little loose. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KeithV Report post Posted November 14, 2015 Hey coach keep us posted im interested in that cal for my son his savage needs a rebarrell Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WampusCat Report post Posted November 17, 2015 Interesting that the die, when properly adjusted wouldn't bump those suspect cases back into specs. If yours is working fine with un-modded case holders and dies then I'd just carry on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lancetkenyon Report post Posted November 17, 2015 Very, very, VERY slight differences between 6.5-284 Win & 6.5-284 Norma from all that I have researched on the two. Make sure the reamer and dies match. Web, throat, neck diameter, and brass thickness differences between Win & Norma/Lapua too. Winchester and Remington brass have necks that are the same thickness as the shoulders, so when you neck down .284 Win brass, no need to turn necks. Lapua, Norma, Nosler, Hornady, Federal, etc. all have slightly thicker shoulder material than neck material, so once you fire and resize, you need to trim necks or you get a donut at the base of the neck, which will cause chambering issues with once fired brass. This I know from first hand experience with a different cartridge. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
