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naturegirl

question about auto repairs versus buying a new car

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check to see if there was a recall for this issue. If do they should repair it for free.

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5-8 thousand is a lot less than the 20+ a new one will cost. Since money is an issue have you tried talking to the bank and essentially buying the vehicle from yourself using the value of the vehicle? 8 grand is a lot easier to pay off over a couple years than all at once for sure. Just another option to look into.

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Just an FYI my buddy had the ford egr issue on his truck and 2 dealers wanted 5000. To fix it. He bought it used from a ford dealer with a warranty 6 months earlier and somehow the warranty didnt cover this item of course. After 3 days of fighting with these snakes I put it on a flatbed and hauled it to my guy and it was 139.00 cleaned egr and he's now at 1 yr with no issues. It is hard to do but network and find an honest mechanic. Espeacially with trani issues. Good luck

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If it's not a warranty issue, NEVER have the dealer do it. Those m48=4+&$ers love to charge double what other mechanics (with the same ASE cert) charge for the same work.

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Work is never cheap I agree but why are greese monkeys getting 140 hr. My mechanic is at 65. An hour and gives option a b c with his quote.

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Once warranty is done with a new car purchase, my car will never see a dealer mechanic again. I always bring my cars to Carl's Car Care on Bell Rd & 59th Ave.

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And they explained it that the engine isn't getting fuel or oil (sorry I'm car stupid) during that rev.

 

It took them 2 days and finally on sunday after 3 separate tries throughout the day the guy heard it

And they are full of crap. Oil pump should be mechanical off the crank shaft of the engine. If the engine is turning, with a good oil pump, you are getting oil. Fuel is probably electronic and computer could be shutting off pump but I bet it is sending fuel either to the throttle body or to the ports if MPFI.

 

One time I took my wife's old Pontiac to the dealer and the first code was check o2 sensor. Five trips without them fixing the problem I looked over what the had done, first trip showed me the engine code, and I fixed the problem. They gave me all my money back.

 

All my cars, with routine maintenance, have had over 200,000 miles on them before starting to have problems. They are not Toyotas however.

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I would leave it. If it took that many days for the technician to even hear it to diagnose it I guess it's not that big of a problem. Yes it does take a few seconds for the oil pressure to reach what I needs to be so a rev at the beginning of start up is not ideal but nothing that's gonna cause any problems. For 70 years carbed engines revved up when you pulled the choke and fired them up and it never hurt anybody.

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I truly believe this isn't as big of an issue as the dealers want you to believe. However, go ahead and get a second opinion from someone you trust. If the engine is maintained with clean oil and fuel.. a rev at the beginning of startup will not harm anything unless it is getting into the "red line" of the rpms... In other words, unless the dang thing is "pedal to the metal" you don't have to worry about it.

 

Also, if it was being starved by fuel or oil.. I would guarantee you that your check engine light would go off which allows an easy diagnostic of just checking the code.

 

Once again, I would gladly overlook things for you if you aren't able to find someone trustworthy. I have a few friends who bring all their automotive problems to me for my opinion before going to another mechanic/dealership.

 

Tony.

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If it's not a warranty issue, NEVER have the dealer do it. Those m48=4+&$ers love to charge double what other mechanics (with the same ASE cert) charge for the same work.

 

Yep! I had a taillight replaced that would have been over $500 at the dealer but was $350 at a body shop.

 

Don't beat me up I know that is still a STUPID price for a taillight but for an OEM replacement that was the best I found and I look 3-4 places before I buy anything for a car.

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As other have said, Get it diagnosed by a couple other mechanics , but before you do Take the WOMAN out of the equation ( no offense) and find a somewhat knowledgeable Make friend or relative to take it in ... Is it throwing Codes? It could be something as simple as a vacuum leak or clogged or bad IAC valve that would cost next to nothing ... I also suggest Looking at some of the Toyota Forums ( search by year, model and described as you said) You will find people who have had the same issues and see the varied things that fixed them ... at minimum gives you a little knowledge to know how bad they are trying to screw you...

 

Is it throwing out any codes ? i.e. is the check engine light coming on ?

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