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Huntnchick

Broadheads for elk

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Women generally have shorter draw lengths and don't pull mega weight. Modern compound bows lessen the issue. Likely, you'd be best off with a cut on contact fixed head (really, most would).

 

As others have said, make sure your BH choice tunes well to your equipment. I like large fletching for stabilizing broadhead tipped arrows. In the past I used 5" vanes with as much helical as the arrow diameter would allow. That being said, last year I used a helical AZ EZ fletcher set up for Blazer type vanes. I was pleasantly surprised how well the little Blazers stabilized a fixed broadhead. Try to set up your equipment with "forgiveness" in mind. A critical set-up is not what most of us need at the moment of truth.

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G5 montec gets my vote. Made a less that perfect shot on my bull last year and he didn't make it 150 yards

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Muzzys did a number on my bull, zipped right threw quartering away. Having said that, i switched to Grave Diggers.

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I've shot 4 bulls with Rocket Steelhead 100 grain and my last elk with a 125 grain Swhacker. All have died within 50 yards. I got better penetration with the rockets, but all did an incredible job. A lot of guys on here will tell you fixed heads are a must, but shoot whatever you're most comfortable with and what shoots best for you.

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G5 montec gets my vote. Made a less that perfect shot on my bull last year and he didn't make it 150 yards

i dont know what it is about the Montec, but i have heard more horror stories with that specific head, from trusted sources than anything else. Which puzzles me because its a great design.

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I've seen and heard of too many guys that have had blades bent way back against the shaft when using mechanicals on elk. Go fixed, lots of good, very similar options.

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Ok, several great posts here... some not as informative.

 

First, make sure you bow is tuned correctly (This may actually take a lot of time to get it right, seek professional help if need be)

Secondly, pick a blade that is made for what you want to hunt as there certainly can be a difference. Even though some manufacturers may suggest their product is "good for everything", they don't all perform equally, especially with poor hits etc. (which will be their excuse for poor performance on a "less than perfect" shot). Asking here is a good start though... This includes mechanical broadheads... be selective and know what you're getting into. I've personally hunted with both and seen great success with both, but they are different so know what you're getting into with mechanical broadheads.

Thirdly, experiment with them to make sure they fly just like your field tips (assuming your field tips "fly like darts"). This will likely take several trips to the range shooting broadheads at broadhead targets. Also be sure to shoot them at any range you plan to hunt/shoot at as well (be that whatever distance you choose as your "limit", then stick to it!).

Fourth, while practicing or "tuning" your broadheads with your bow, it's a good idea to shoot every arrow you plan to keep in your quiver with the "practice" broadheads so you know if each arrow will fly correctly. Note that it may surprise you to learn that every arrow isn't equal so this little step may help preserve that monumental tag/opportunity you have... the last thing you want to do is to have a great opportunity blow up on you because you have an arrow that doesn't fly "perfect" with a broadhead on it. Keep in mind that an arrow may fly line a "dart" with a field tip, but a broadhead can accentuate inconsistencies due to the "sail" at the business end of your arrow. Have you ever read or heard a story where someone said something like... "I felt like I had a great shot, but the arrow flew off and I can't explain why..." You don't want to tell a story like that... this step may help you in this area.

 

Couple more points:

A) If you're shooting a "fast" bow, larger traditional broadhead designs are tougher to get to fly perfectly whereas the shorter more compact design broadheads are easier to get to fly "perfect". Just because your field tips that fly like "darts" does not mean your bow is in perfect tune or that your broadheads will also fly like darts.

B) It's been said to make sure your blades are sharp... they should be "razor" sharp... always. Will your quiver dull your blades during you hunt? It might... and if it does how will you keep your blades sharp? Just something to consider...

c) Don't worry as much about how good a blood trail others have gotten from any broadhead as each animal can react differently to being hit especially when you factor in where it's hit. As stated above, I too seen excellent shots provide terrible blood trails and poor hits provide better/decent blood trails.

 

Bottom line is worry more about what you can control and do your best to do that. It's also great you're doing this now as opposed to late August!

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For a lady go with something traditional like stingers or something with a Cut On Contact tip. Stingers 2 or 4 blades. Take no chances with penetration. Others I would look at are Wac'em Tritons or Exits little broadheads but have great performance.

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i had a near horror story with the montec about 5 years ago. i chose them because they look to be absolutely bulletproof and a great broadhead for elk. i center punched a big 375" bull, clean pass through, 1 inch behind shoulder, 2-3 inches below center. one of the best shots i have ever made. i ended up killing the bull about a mile, 3 more arrows and 2.5 hours later. the lungs had a perfect hole punched right through them, but were not blood shot. when i put the last shot through him, it sounded like someone popped a hole in a huge balloon and air game rushing out. he was inflated like a tick. it might have been some sort of anomaly, but i have never seen or heard anything like it. it punched a hole through his lungs and filled his chest cavity full of air, rather than causing bleeding and having his lungs fill with blood. i don't think they are sharp enough and rather than the arrow slicing the veins/arteries, it just pushed "around" them. After this, i decided i would from now on shoot a big NASTY broadhead, so i switched to slick tricks, and the results have been incredible. entry and exit holes like baseballs and almost everything has been dead within 30-40 yards.

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To the OP: Those full-blade QAD Exodus you already have are reputed as one of the best penetrating, sharpest broadheads you can buy. They should be for $40/3. Many people that used to shoot Montecs now shoot the Exodus. I'm going to use them this year instead of my SS Montecs.

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