Copper fouling

[257wby]

I noticed my 300 Weatherby has a large build up of copper in the barrel, What products do you guys recommend for getting it cleaned out? Also, is there a lubricant to keep it from getting so bad other than cleaning between every few shots?

 

Thanks

Mike

[Red Rabbit]

After cleaning with a solvent like Butch's Bore Shine or Shooters Choice to get the powder fouling out, good copper solvents are Sweets, Barnes CR 10 or Montana Extreme 50 BMG Copper Killer. Instead of a brass brush or jag, use a nylon brush or nickel plated jag with the copper remover as the ammonia will react with the copper in the brass and give a false blue reading. Also don't leave the copper remover inthe barrel for more than 15 minutes.

 

WipeOut foam works well also.

 

RR

[257wby]

RR, thanks alot for the input. I had not heard about getting false blue readings from the brass brusk or jag. This should really help alot.

 

Thanks again

 

257wby

[bowsniper]

I have had very good results with sweets 7.62.

 

Mark

[firstcoueswas80]

I use Sweets as well.

 

when i do use the sweets ESPECIALLY with my kimber 22-250, i put a shirt over the but stock cause if that stuff gets on the wood it will strip the finish right off! trust me! happened to Doug and I when we were breaking in the barrel of my 22-250!

 

one thing to remember, you dont want to leave the copper remover in too long or it will take ur barrel down to bare metal which will change your point of impact. ususally, i will run butches bore shine for powder and such, then sweets for copper fouling. after i have cleaned all or most of the sweets out with dry patches, i will run a few patches soaked with Hoppe's to neutralize the stuff so it doesnt do any damage to my barrel.

[Hooked_on_Coues]

A good practice is to not mix copper solvents with powder solvents in the bore. After using the powder solvent, neutralize it with a light coat of oil like Kroil. Then use your copper solvent.

 

Otherwise the copper solvent can cause checking in the bore.

 

Another option is a very tight patch with a coating of Iosso. It is non-abrasive and will polish the bore to a mirror finish. Properly broken in, your barrel should not copper excessively. You might want to go through the whole process again and see if that helps. http://www.riflebarrels.com/support/center...maintenance.htm

[DesertBull]

A good practice is to not mix copper solvents with powder solvents in the bore. After using the powder solvent, neutralize it with a light coat of oil like Kroil. Then use your copper solvent.

 

 

 

Kroil is AWESOME.

 

Put a lot of that stuff in your already cleaned barrel and let it sit overnight. In the morning, run a borebrush down it a couple times, then a patch. You'd be amazed at what will come out of a barrel you thought was clean. Doesn't remove copper, but digs out all the powder and plastic.

 

J-B paste will remove stubborn copper deposits, but it might wear down your rifling if you use it too often.

[Red Rabbit]

Ditto on the Kroil. I usually mix it 1 part Kroil: 3 parts Butchs solvent. Yes, after cleaning with the ammonia based copper removers, neutralize it with oil. I believe that the problem with the ammonia based copper removers is that it reacts with absorbed water from the air and the resulting chemical can lead to pitting of the barrel.

[catclaw]

I use different stuff depending on the time I have and the condition of the barrel. I use a water-based general cleaner to get the powder fouling out so I can get to the copper. I then scrub it good with a solvent and a bronze brush. I then run a few patches with Kroil through until I am convinced that it is down the copper fouling. Use the end of a Q-tip under good light to EXAMINE the muzzle end of the barrel. That Q-tip inserted will really light it up.

 

If I have time, I will foam it with wipe-out or similar. Usually waiting 30 minutes before patching out. Usually doing this twice will get most any copper out. If I still have copper after two applications of foam I will short stroke a patch coated with JB or Iosso and then kroil this out and once again repeat the foam. This always gets it clean.

 

If I don't have that much time, I will work out the copper with Montana Extreme or Barnes CR-10, waiting about 5-10 minutes between soakings. I may run a couple of patches of Rem cleaner through it to speed things up. I always finish up with kroil and put it away that way UNLESS it is going into long-term storage- then I run a patch of good gun oil down the barrel.

[257wby]

Well I just got my scope back from being rebuilt for my 300 wby and went to the range to sight it in again. The first five rounds @25 yds were tight at 1" low and 1.5" right. I clicked up 3 and right 5. At 100 yds, my next shot was 11" high and 8" left. Next shot was 12 high and 2 left. Looked down the barrel and there was a ton of copper again. Is this a problem with the ammo or what? I about to permanantly store it and use my 257wby for my elk hunt. I've gone through $150 in bullets and its no better than before. Could it be a scope problem even though it is basically brand new? Any advice can only help.

 

Mike

[firstcoueswas80]

only thing i can think of is correct it for 100 yards, and see if it tightens up. make sure to check your action screws as well as the barrel making contact with the stock. sounds to me like when the barrel heats up it is contacting the stock and throwing it way off! try free floating the barrel and bedding the action.