zero my rife and using turrets

[STOMP442]

Yes it will be off. Altitude, pressure and temperature will all have an effect on ballistic performance. The easy way is once you have a ballistic chart that closely matches your actual shot data is to calculate another chart for a specific elevation and compare the two to see how much things actually change. The sure way is to actually shoot at distance at a certain elevation and record actual shot data.

[Hoss50]

Like a lot of people said. If you havn't been behind the gun practicing at 500 yards for awhile you have no business taking a shot that far on an animal. Its not fair to the animal when you make a bad hit because of lack of practice or skill. I have been working with my rifle and loads decently for almost 2 years and I still am only confident in myself and rifle to about 500 yards and even at that range it would have to be a good circumstance to take that shot.

 

My goal for this rifle and scope though is only to be able to take up to about a 600 yard shot confidently. At this point I am confident to between 400-500 yards and I have shot hundreds of rounds through this rifle and scope combo. If you have no trigger time on the gun and the load then the responsible thing to do would be keep the ranges to about 300 and sight it in at 200. A 300 Win with a reasonable load sighted at 200 wouldn't be that low at 300 that you shouldn't be able to figure out the drop with a calculator and make a reasonable correction in your scope. Beyond 300 the bullets really start to drop and knowing what your rifle and round will do is key to taking quality shots.

[lancetkenyon]

Also, make sure you KNOW it is 300 yards. Don't just look and guess. Across a canyon might appear like 300 yards, but if it is actually 375, means a wounded animal. Get a rangefinder if you don't have one.

[jgraffaz]

Not trying to be rude, but If you are just now trying to get this to work you are too late. Zero it for 200 and get within 300 yards. Try again next year. Sorry, you can't just look it up on the web and start shooting at living things. You did not even say what your MV or bullet BC is.

Thanks for all the posts every one, i didnt mean for it to sound like i have no trigger time ect. I have been shooting consistently since June i just haven't used my turrets or a ballistic calculator, i have been practicing out to 200 yards ALOT and can shoot a very good group..... at 315 yard my first mill dot hits every time, but i just wanted to have absolute precision and see how my groups are at 400 yards for a shot, 500 is just for my own practice and future hunting ...thank you everyone!

[lonne]

No negative intended. But my understanding, 300 win mag to 300 is not hard at all. Its one of the flatter trajectories out to 300.

 

Wind is your worst enemy.

[CouesFanatic]

Go on vortex's website and click on LRBC. You can get the distances for all of your reticles distances at all powers of your scope. You will need some info to input.

[azsugarbear]

Set your zero at 200 yds and go verify the drop chart generated by your software, The drop chart will get you close, but you will need to alter your velocity and bullet BC inputs to get the software to spit out a table that accurately portrays what your actual drops were out in the field. Then get to where the elk are for a scouting trip, or arrive a day or two before the hunt and re-zero your rifle for the hunt at the desired elevation. Your revised/corrected drop chart will still be accurate out to 500 yds. Altitude change will not make that much of a change, if you keep it under 500 yds. (Play with the software and you will see what I mean).

 

As Ionne said above, wind becomes the boogeyman for long distance shooting. Gravity is a constant and once you have it dialed in for your altitude - it doesn't change. On the other hand, wind varies greatly. It ebbs and flows. It swirls, gusts. etc. Probably best to think of it like water in a stream. It moves around objects, flows faster when funneled, moves in different directions as it encounters obstacles - you get the idea. A constant wind is rare. And a gusting or variable wind will wreak havoc on your accuracy. A wind meter is a good place to start, but it doesn't tell you what is happening down range. Watching how vegetation is reacting to the wind down range will give you some idea. But only with lots of practice in the field under different conditions will you overcome the wind. That is one thing you cannot rush.

 

If the wind stays 5 mph or under, you will probably be alright out to 500 yds - providing your reticle or windage turret allows you to make the necessary changes suggested by your ballistic software. If the wind is steady at 10 mph, or gusting - then you should limit your shots to 300 yds and under. You need to practice wind hold-off or wind correction before going on your hunt. Just like your drop chart, you need to confirm the solution it gives you.

 

What I have found is that most ballistic software overestimates what your bullet and load will do down range. I always seem to need more clicks to get to the desired distance out past 400 yds. I have also found that it underestimates the ability of your bullet to buck the wind. I rarely need to make as much correction as the software tells me I need. Maybe it is my fault in overestimating the wind? Good luck on your late hunt.

[roninflag]

what rifle? what load? what is the size of the 300, 400, 500 yard groups?

[azgutpile]

Set your zero at 200 yds and go verify the drop chart generated by your software, The drop chart will get you close, but you will need to alter your velocity and bullet BC inputs to get the software to spit out a table that accurately portrays what your actual drops were out in the field. Then get to where the elk are for a scouting trip, or arrive a day or two before the hunt and re-zero your rifle for the hunt at the desired elevation. Your revised/corrected drop chart will still be accurate out to 500 yds. Altitude change will not make that much of a change, if you keep it under 500 yds. (Play with the software and you will see what I mean).

 

As Ionne said above, wind becomes the boogeyman for long distance shooting. Gravity is a constant and once you have it dialed in for your altitude - it doesn't change. On the other hand, wind varies greatly. It ebbs and flows. It swirls, gusts. etc. Probably best to think of it like water in a stream. It moves around objects, flows faster when funneled, moves in different directions as it encounters obstacles - you get the idea. A constant wind is rare. And a gusting or variable wind will wreak havoc on your accuracy. A wind meter is a good place to start, but it doesn't tell you what is happening down range. Watching how vegetation is reacting to the wind down range will give you some idea. But only with lots of practice in the field under different conditions will you overcome the wind. That is one thing you cannot rush.

 

If the wind stays 5 mph or under, you will probably be alright out to 500 yds - providing your reticle or windage turret allows you to make the necessary changes suggested by your ballistic software. If the wind is steady at 10 mph, or gusting - then you should limit your shots to 300 yds and under. You need to practice wind hold-off or wind correction before going on your hunt. Just like your drop chart, you need to confirm the solution it gives you.

 

What I have found is that most ballistic software overestimates what your bullet and load will do down range. I always seem to need more clicks to get to the desired distance out past 400 yds. I have also found that it underestimates the ability of your bullet to buck the wind. I rarely need to make as much correction as the software tells me I need. Maybe it is my fault in overestimating the wind? Good luck on your late hunt.

What bullet are you using? Are you using the makers advertised BC?

[rcdinaz]

Things you need:

 

Altimeter - If you have a GPS or Phone you have this. A lot of inexpensive watches also have this feature.

 

Inclinometer - For determining shot angle, again your phone can do this or you can mount one on your rifle

 

Anemometer - Wind is more difficult than the drop. Once you use it a lot you get a pretty good idea of what a 5, 10, or 15 mph wind is like.

 

Range Finder - I am sure everyone has this

 

Shooter - The app when set right will do everything but range and measure the wind. It will adjust for all atmospheric conditions, it does have an inclinometer, spin drift, coriolis, and for wind both direction and speed can be set very simply. If you are worried about a cell signal set everything at the closest signal you can find then make any tweaks using the other tools mentioned before you start your hunt in the morning. I also print off a chart for the conditions I expect and tape it to the rifle stock. My experience is out to 400-500 yds the calculations change very little even with altitude, humidity, and temp changes. Incline and wind are the big ones that will make you miss.

This sounds like a lot but once you get your routine down it takes 5 minutes or less.

[Zeke-BE]

Yes know what the wind does and know what 5mp and 10 mph wind is. Wind at 10 mph is 18 inches for 500 yard for my rifle and I hit it twice and not realizing the wind picked up I adjusted the moa and starting hitting the plate agiain. But at 800 it's 48 inches ( 4 feet). Good luck

[muledeerarea33?]

Forget all the experts. Shoot and find your true grouping at your hunting elevation. Should only take a weekend or a day. Calculators are great but I always find my self second guessing and making my own ballistic charts. More accurate?? Um, yes because it's actual info!!

[pwrguy]

Go out and shoot at the range you want to shoot and see where it hits and how it groups. No point in getting into to much of the science and math at this late stage of the game. Whatever range your group goes to more than 5 inches is too far for you. Good luck.

[308Nut]

I'm with DB on this. It's a bit late in the game to be trying to make this work.

 

As far as temp and altitude (pressure), at 500 yards, the difference between 3000' and average temp swings has negligible. More noticeable at 600 and by 800 you'd better have accurate measurements.

 

As far as reading pressure, you can use a pocket weather station such as a kestrel or brunton adc.

[vinniebeeks]

buy a g7 range finder it will do everything for you. i have a lieca and it tell me the baro pressure temp and angle and i input that all into my SHOOTER app and i adjust scope from there and its pretty deadly.