creed_az_88 Report post Posted September 22, 2014 So I took the turbo to cooler boot off and inspected it. It's definitely wiped out. I need to replace it and none of the local parts stores carry it so the question is, who to order it from. I also found this bolt missing from the turbo. It surprisingly just layed there where it fell out and never rattled onto the ground. It can't be good but Im not sure if it affected performance at all. All the other bolts were snug. I pulled the boot on the other end of the pipe going into the cooler off and the other boot looks good although the bottom side of it obviously has oil leak from the clamps. So I'm gonna replace the torn boot and replace the missing bolt but what else should I look at? Could that torn boot really stop the truck from moving? Thanks for all the help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Edge Report post Posted September 22, 2014 Is that your glove I'm seeing thru a hole in the sleeve? You'd have trouble starting the truck with that hole in it. One part I was talking about is not the rubber boot but rather that 90* plastic elbow going into the engines alum. intake, it's in your top picture and still on the truck. They make an alum. replacement for those, $120.-- Ford, maybe NAPA has those rubber boots, they look trashed and are an inexpensive replacement. I drove for some months with the rubber sleeve leaking and you'll get a poor boost code if yours were leaking. If replacing those boots doesn't fix the problem, pull that EGR valve, it's easy to get to, clean it and make sure there's no holes in the diaphragm..If that valve is dirty and sticks, truck will barely run but zero power and truck will smoke like a coal burning engine. Good luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimmyc Report post Posted September 22, 2014 If that boot is torn you're not building up pressure in the turbo. I think that's your loss of power. Replace the boot and crank it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8OWHUNT247 Report post Posted September 22, 2014 Usually the EGR goes bad after the oil cooler goes bad. This will cause the white smoke and blown head gaskets. New boot and pipe my just fix the problem. Good Luck, be sure to let us know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
countrykid Report post Posted September 23, 2014 Ya sounds like a EGR valve Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
countrykid Report post Posted September 23, 2014 Ya sounds like a EGR valve Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oz31p Report post Posted September 23, 2014 So I took the turbo to cooler boot off and inspected it. It's definitely wiped out.image.jpg I need to replace it and none of the local parts stores carry it so the question is, who to order it from. I also found this bolt missing from the turbo. It surprisingly just layed there where it fell out and never rattled onto the ground. It can't be good but Im not sure if it affected performance at all. All the other bolts were snug. image.jpg I pulled the boot on the other end of the pipe going into the cooler off and the other boot looks good although the bottom side of it obviously has oil leak from the clamps. So I'm gonna replace the torn boot and replace the missing bolt but what else should I look at? Could that torn boot really stop the truck from moving? image.jpg Thanks for all the help. any Ford dealer will have that tube on hand. Also replaced the bolt on the compressor housing. Or http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BV6XWHU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1411431810&sr=8-1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ShutYourLib Report post Posted September 23, 2014 Egr valve. If white smoke, loses all power but does it off and on.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carpcody Report post Posted September 23, 2014 I'm pretty sure you can only get the boot from a ford dealer. Maybe napa has them now but when I got mine napa told me to go to ford. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AZkiller Report post Posted September 23, 2014 Not gonna help now but I like strictly diesel.com. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRDATR Report post Posted September 23, 2014 Not gonna help now but I like strictly diesel.com. Give Nate a call at Strictly Diesel. https://www.strictlydiesel.com/default.aspx I don't know anything about the 6.0 but I've had my 7.3 since Feb of 2000 and Nate has been around for a long time and I highly recommend him. You can also (should) join http://www.azpsg.com/forum.php Sunrise Ford in SoCAL sells parts a lot less than you will get them anywhere else. http://www.dieselsite.com/hosesbootsandclamps.aspx Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
khmer6 Report post Posted September 23, 2014 Sorry skimmed thru the comments. first thing I would look for is a boost/vacuum leak. Sounds like a whacky Air fuel mix that's just freaking it out. Check all the intake housing and pipes and any of the vent tunes you may have coming off the manifold. A simple small vacuum or boost leak can stop an engine and rattle. Nothing too serious but it can send shivers down someone's spine when they think it's something else and their motor just took a big one Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hoss50 Report post Posted September 23, 2014 This guy just rebuilt the top end of my buddies 6.0l power stroke. My buddy is very happy with the work and the price quote I saw seemed very reasonable. He had a cracked head, bad egr, etc. http://www.bbb.org/phoenix/business-reviews/auto-repair-and-service-diesel/diesel-dermanator-llc-in-glendale-az-1000029775/ I also know pro diesel does good work as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
creed_az_88 Report post Posted September 25, 2014 So I ordered a boot from rifraf diesel and installed it. I also disconnected the batteries and reconnected them just in case the truck was still in limp mode( not sure it would help but I did it anyways.) I tried starting the truck and the batteries were dead. Weird I thought considering I just put a new alternator on last week and had the batteries tested. I jumped the truck and got it to start but it took forever to jump and when I started the truck it really took a lot for it to start. In the process the gauges all pegged out. The speedometer went to 120+ or whatever it goes to the fuel gauge showed full, the oil level gauge went to full, etc. the truck ran like crap. I did get it to get above idle when pushing the fuel pedal but not by much. The motor rattled a bit but nothing like two days ago when I first broke down. I'm really wondering if this is an electrical issue. My truck batteries started to be dead when I tried to start the truck last week so put a new alternator in last week and it seemed to fix the problem. I did however feel the alternator after I put it in while it was running and it was running very hot. After the truck started all the gauges went back to normal but the fuel gauge which went back to 1/4 of a tank. I filled the tank about 30 miles prior so It should still pretty much be full. It could be wrong or it could actually be that low. I'm at work now so I can't check the actual level but if it is that low could this be bad ejectors or a bad hpop? If I decide to have a mechanic look at it, do you have any recommendations on somebody who's honest and reasonable? Preferably in Tucson or cochise county somewhere? I appreciate all comments so far. Creed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
muledeerarea33? Report post Posted September 25, 2014 Neighbors 7.3 a few weeks ago. Idle but no throttle response. Cluster fixed it. Also had fuel pump faults so the high pressure pump got replaced. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
