Arrows seem to be angling to the right on target

[Edge]

Coriolis effect.

[ylclaret]

I was having an awful time getting my bow tuned, got on here and started asking questions, and a helpful member offered to take a look at it for me. We made sure everything was where it was supposed to be, and that my form wasn't the issue and it still wouldn't tune. Took of the whisker biscuit and put on a drop away and it immediately fixed the problem. Not saying that's the case here but it's a possibility worth looking into. My whisker biscuit was pretty worn out, so if you've put a bunch of arrows through yours try putting a new biscuit on it and see if it helps.

[camoremi]

Actually that's not entirely true. I shoot a 400 spine at 76.5 lbs and am still fine. It also depends on arrow length. If you're draw length is short enough you can stiffen the spine by shortening the arrows. However if you are over spined your arrows won't flex enough and cause bad flight. I see way too many people who are shooting 340 spines that don't have enough dl or poundage to warrant it. Bring it down to Archery HQ in Chandler and ask for Jr I'll get you set up right.

 

Well for me 400 is under spine. I'm at 71.5 29 inch draw plus a .25 inch or so d-loop. When I tried shoot 400's I could watch the arrow fishtail at longer distances

[nlacost]

Sounds like too many opinions...take to a shop,let the pro's check to make sure its in spec then level,time,and check for cam lean..check arrow length versus spine/stiffness and vane clearance...then when the bow is mechanically sound can you paper tune it and adjust sights at that point.....don't waste valuable time guessing....

[camoremi]

Sounds like too many opinions...take to a shop,let the pro's check to make sure its in spec then level,time,and check for cam lean..check arrow length versus spine/stiffness and vane clearance...then when the bow is mechanically sound can you paper tune it and adjust sights at that point.....don't waste valuable time guessing....

X2 take it to Nate at ross outdoors

[azpredator@work]

Camoremi - don't worry about dl, its the length of arrow, broadhead weight, bow poundage and type of bow you shoot are the primary factors to look at for spine.

 

There are so many factors you should take it to a shop. Not worth trying a bunch of things if you are unfamiliar.

[Shedhunteraz]

Don't listen to shedhunteraz. I love whisker biscuits!!!! Hahaha. I have seen too many drop aways fail to use one myself.

Thats funny you say that, the deer i shot last year said the same thing

[Maverick351]

If you bring it into Archery HQ ask for Junior. Im working tomorrow and I'll be happy to help you out and get you set up right.

[camoremi]

Camoremi - don't worry about dl, its the length of arrow, broadhead weight, bow poundage and type of bow you shoot are the primary factors to look at for spine.

There are so many factors you should take it to a shop. Not worth trying a bunch of things if you are unfamiliar.

Huh? I didn't say anything about whisker biscuit

[apache12]

Thanks for all the help. I must say I think I'm more confused now then when I started. Ha ha. I'm going to take it to a shop

 

Maybe I should try Junior at archery hw or Ross outdoors. I live by the shop on deer valley. Anyone know the guys up there?

[camoremi]

Arizona archery club? 11 ave and deer valley I'm down the street from them also I go in their from time to time. But I prefer Ross

[Maverick351]

I know Chandler is a bit far but come in ask for Junior and I promise I'll do everything I can to make it worth your time

[krp]

Thanks for all the help. I must say I think I'm more confused now then when I started. Ha ha. I'm going to take it to a shop

 

Maybe I should try Junior at archery hw or Ross outdoors. I live by the shop on deer valley. Anyone know the guys up there?

 

Your problem is typically an overspine issue, most tuning issues are spine.

 

Try putting the next heavier weight field tips on and see if they hit square(er). That's a cheap test.

 

A simple walk back tune would tell you alot if you have access to targets stacked vertical or a haystack.

 

There is only one perfect spine for each setup... which is... bow poundage(energy), Arrow brand/spine/length, and head weight. There is a 'valley' that you can work in, the closer to the center the better.

More weight on front reduces spine. Or more energy/poundage. Or longer arrows... but your bow is set and arrows cut.

 

Think of a small car pulling a big trailer, the heavy trailer (arrow) will try to pass the car (tip) downhill and jackknife. The head is to light to pull the arrow straight back behind it... hitting sideways and losing penetration.

 

Once an arrow is cut to xx length the spine is set. Every arrow flexes and it flexes the most on release. There are two nodes on the shaft, one in towards the back and one the front. While the arrow flexes you want to find the perfect flight of those nodes moving down range. So once an arrow is cut, the basic ways to change spine is head weight and energy (poundage).

 

If I have a 5ft bamboo pole and two rocks on the ground, one two pound rock and one three pound. If I push the lighter rock the bamboo will flex before starting the inert rock rolling, as the rock gains it's own momentum the shaft flex less to keep it rolling. To start the heavier rock it must first flex more. When you release the string of a bow the arrow pushes on an inert tip and depending on weight will flex less or more.

 

Also the bamboo will flex differently on the same weight rock depending on how hard I push... energy/poundage.

 

Tuning is everything about getting as close to perfect flex of an arrow/head/poundage combo and to have those nodes fly downrange as harmonically as possible... hitting square and penetrating to the max.

 

Kent

[creed]

What Kent said.

 

I read so much stuff on the boards that isn't really relevant to so much of what guys are concerned with. Perfect bullet holes, bareshaft tuned to identical point of impact which if spine isn't right that ain't going to happen, broadheads and field points hitting the same out to a hundred yards, etc. All of that stuff is good but if your spine is off it is going to make some of that impossible.

 

Do like he said and walk back tune it and call it good. More often than not it will shoot bullet holes, bareshaft tune and shoot better than the shooter is capable of shooting. So much unnecessary emphasis is put on tuning and not enough on shooting. A tuned bow is a must but not to the point of obsessing about whether you have perfect arrow flight at 10 feet.

 

Archery is supposed to be fun.

[krp]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVsWmqrfVj4

 

This is correct spine for a compound/release. It osculates up and down but stays level and straight on two nodes. Watch it a few times to get the sense of what's really happening.

 

Underspined and the back end will kick even further down, possibly hitting the shelf or breaking, the nodes will not stay level and jump up and down.

 

Overspined and the front end will kick sideways and stay sideways to the target. Even if you can micro adjust the rest to perfect center, any torque or form difference will cause the arrows to fly off. This is important when you are kneeling or leaning around a jack pine to shoot at an animal.

 

Having your arrow sitting on the rest close to the front node helps a little also.

 

I bought a used switchback on AT, will get it next week.

 

Simple walkback...

 

I'll eyeball the center and square the nock point.

 

I have hay bales and targets at my dad's acreage, so I'll plumb a string down with a weight on the bottom.

 

Put a bullseye about shoulder level under the string, sight my top pin on the bull at about 15 or 20 yards. Don't worry about exact distances.

 

Walkback shooting one arrow at different distances, with the same top pin at the same bull, your arrows will get lower in the target shooting with the same pin at the same bull. Don't worry about distances, just stop before hitting dirt.

 

If your arrows get farther away from the string in one direction as you go back, adjust the rest and walk back again.

 

Do this enough times you are confident the center is correct. If the arrows will not come vertical by adjusting the rest... you are overspined. Have some different weight heads and redo.

 

Now go to distances and set pins.

 

If you have vertical stringing try adjusting the rest or nock a little, if that doesn't help try a lighter head to see if you are underspined.

 

Once set, don't play with poundage, or arrow weight or head weight... if you change one you will have to change at least one other to get back in spine.

 

I can walkback tune faster that it took me to write this.

 

Kent