How to dispatch trapped animal?

[singleshot]

Back in the day of leg holds I had a Sheridan 5mm pellet gun that I used to shoot coyotes and everything else with. I would shoot them through the lungs into the heart area. I would generally then leave them and pick them back up on my way out. A lot less blood than a head shot with a 22 or even with the pellet gun. It was a tiny hole that I never even bothered to sew up.

[papa]

I ran a trap line for years and caught my share of coyote & cat.

used a axe handle to pop the coyotes on the bridge of the nose this knocks them out cold then stomp several times behind the shoulder and there done fast. As for cats 22 short in the ear.

[muledeerarea33?]

Most that I saw were foot hold, all humane kills. The ones in cages were killed the same way unless they were freaking out! Then it was 22short in the ear. No matter how they die, it needs to be quick, humane, and bring the most profit. I look forward to a modern day trappers response. I'm talking about times from the 80's and 90's.

[Coues assassin]

Well I appreciate all the info I have another question. Is the only legal take of bobcats (trapping wise) cage trapes (on public land)? Also curious anyone tried that .22 birdshot? Little holes not one big one just a thought

[shanehamblin]

There is a good thread on here titled MACHO B that gives good info on how to do it

[Coues assassin]

There is a good thread on here titled MACHO B that gives good info on how to do it

Do you have a link?

[Presmyk]

Can use foot holds but on private land

[Hyperwrx]

You can only use confinement traps (cage traps) on public land. Confinement traps have very few restrictions compared to using footholds. Footholds can only be used on private land and there is a myriad of regulations surrounding their use. Best get the AZ G&G brochure on trapping from their website and know it forwards and backwards. Stick with cage traps and you have much less to worry about but the cost to get into them is substantially more. Bob at BriarpatchCages.com or Mercer's cages are really the only 2 confinement cages around here in AZ. Both are quality cages.

 

I have dispatched somewhere in the realm of 200+ bobcats in the last 6 years.

 

Dispatching a bobcat with a catch pole is not nearly as dramatic as it sounds. You are not choking him out by restricting airflow but instead just pinching off the blood that goes to the brain which knocks him out. A good choke can take as little as 30 seconds if you get good position on the cats neck. First 15 seconds is a rodeo more due to the cat being restricted and restrained than him being in physical discomfort/pain. A bobcat (or lion) chokes out quite easily due to their jugular veins being situated between the skin the muscle on the neck. After doing it a few times you get the hang of it and it goes much faster and smoother for the bobcat.

 

Also a good trapper is going to use the catch pole to ascertain if the bobcat is worth harvesting. Sometimes the bobcats have fur damage from lactating. It's called owls eyes and the fur is dramatically downgraded due to this so it's best to just release them. I choke a bobcat for about 15-30 seconds until it is rendering unconscious, then quickly release the noose from around its neck and pull it out of the cage. I lay it on its back and look at its belly for pattern and damage. You probably have a good 15 seconds to do this before the bobcat even begins to come around. If the bobcat's pelt is good quality put the noose back on and cinch it down. If not, pull the bobcat away a few feet and remake your set while it wakes up. Point it in a safe direction as I have had many bobcats wake up and freak out trying to get away from me and run into trees and bushes as they get their bearings. You are in no danger of getting attacked by a bobcat when it is waking up. They are quite dumbstuck and it takes a good 30 seconds for them to really get their wits about them

 

Shooting a bobcat, even with a .22 will create a mess that you will spend 5 times longer cleaning up from the fur than just choking them out. You'd also spent a few minutes sewing the .22 hole up. Bird shot from a shotgun shell would tear up the fur. Snakeshot from a .22 would not kill a bobcat quickly nor efficiently.

 

Coyotes, foxes, and badgers are much easier to just put the barrel in the cage or in front of their face and they will bite it, then pull the trigger. I use a Ruger 6 shooter and .22 shorts. Trying to choke out a fox or coyote is a losing battle.

 

Hope that answered your questions. Post if you have any others. As a bonus, here is a couple of bobcat from last season to get you excited. Tucson and the surrounding area has a lot of bobcat but also a lot of trappers are emerging to take their fair share in that region. The hard working trapper will always out trap the lazy ones.

 

 

Here is an unconscious bobcat on her back showing me her belly allowing me to examine her fur to decide if she is a good candidate to harvest. She was.

 

[1uglydude]

I choke a bobcat for about 15-30 seconds until it is rendering unconscious, then quickly release the noose from around its neck and pull it out of the cage. I lay it on its back and look at its belly for pattern and damage. You probably have a good 15 seconds to do this before the bobcat even begins to come around. If the bobcat's pelt is good quality put the noose back on and cinch it down. If not, pull the bobcat away a few feet and remake your set while it wakes up. Point it in a safe direction as I have had many bobcats wake up and freak out trying to get away from me and run into trees and bushes as they get their bearings. You are in no danger of getting attacked by a bobcat when it is waking up. They are quite dumbstuck and it takes a good 30 seconds for them to really get their wits about them

 

 

Wow. This is awesome. I'd probably screw it up though.

[Coues assassin]

Hyperwrx that is some great info I appreciate it! I was looking at the G&F website and can't seem to find anything about the class to get my trapping license do you happen to know anything about it? Also if you have any cages you would like to sell send me a pm

[Hyperwrx]

I have no traps to sell but Craigslist often has guys selling them for much cheaper than the actual vendors. A 4 cage cluster of cage traps goes for $500 now. That's a whopping chunk of change to me, but one has to think a $500 investment pays for itself in 2-3 bobcats pelts (last year's pricing). Bob at Briarpatch Cages might have some used cages around he'll get rid of. You'd have to call and ask. Cell- 623
-203-1451

 

Trapper Education Classes down in the Tucson area are handled by Brent Parker. Here is his cellular phone number (520) 678-0254. Call him and ask when the next trappers ed class is to be held.

 

Let me know if you have any other questions.

[Coues assassin]

Awesome really appreciate the info. One more question (for now at least ) how many cages do you have out at a time and how many do you think would be enough. I am a college student so $500 for 4 cages is a lot I could get one cluster and all the skinning items I need but that's about all my budget will allow. What I do have is the time to trap because I live so close to 37A it's my backyard

[Hyperwrx]

37A gets hit pretty hard by trappers from all directions. I'd learn the bounderies to the M units close by and trap the edges of them. Be careful.

 

I use footholds and cages. I would have 30-40 sets out at any one time and it took me about 3-4 hours to check them all and deal with the fur. You don't have that kind of time or money to drop. I would get a cluster of 3 or 4 cages. That's enough for someone starting out and if you are smart about placement, you could catch more than enough to keep you busy and making money. If you broaden your target base to include grey foxes, you could keep very busy. Foxes are plentiful.

 

Apart from the cages you need the following. I'll take the cheap route as you're on a budget.

 

-Catch pole

-Lure- Everyone had their favorite. I use John Graham lure. Pride Rock or Tomcat. $20 for 4 ounces. You'll probably go through 2 bottles.

-Bobcat urine $40/gallon. 1 gallon is all you need.

-Spray bottle for urine

-Some danglers for the cages or go get a feather boa from Walmart and cut it up. $20

-5 gallon bucket

-Skinning knife- get a cheap small buck knife and a hand held cheap knife sharpener

-Fleshing pole- you'll have to buy this online. $40

-3-4 stretchers. Get wire Duke bobcat stretchers and a few fox stretchers Wood are way better but they are really expensive.

-Trappers tags- you have to have them on your cages. $20

-Tail stripper and tail splitter- $20

-Tree limb cutter. Get one at Walmart and make it one with the shortest handles you can find.

-Some type of a hand held device to break up hard ground. Something like this is what I use.

 

 

-Box of neoprene blue gloves for skinning.

-At Walmart they make $3 zippered pouches. Get one and put all your skinning gear in it. Knife, gloves, splitter and stripper, gallon ziplock bags, antibacteria soap....

 

All stuff to make a set goes in your bucket. One hand carries a cage, the other the bucket.

 

Best place to buy stuff online is F&T Trapping. You'll have to pay shipping but they're quick and have it all.

[Chef]

Hyperwrx,

Thank you so much for your contributions to this thread.

It's great to learn from people such as you that have firsthand experience on the subject.

I'm reading your posts going "really?...I never knew!"

[Coues assassin]

I agree thank you very much Hyperwrx for taking the time to provide all of this information. It really really helps a lot for getting started! And yes I plan on doing foxes and coyotes that I call I figure the practice skinning and fleshing is good plus I love anything that gets me outdoors. I'm going to print this list you gave and have it all by the time trapping comes around!