Devil Diver Down Report post Posted April 19, 2014 wait... results are out? Where's my bull tag? If I ever draw again, I'll probably use the 100g G5 carbon steel Montecs that I've been using. They fly well with my set up but I agree with others who have said shot placement and sharpness of blade are key. Repeatability is what you need before you step in the field. That'll give you the confidence in your broadhead, your set up and yourself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AZwest16 Report post Posted April 19, 2014 Rage, rage, and some more rage! Only reason why I say this is very easy to tune and deadly on elk! I originally shot fixed blade muzzys but after poor blood trails I went to rage and haven't been disappointed at all. I've personally seen 6 bulls shot with rage in the last two seasons from 6 yards to 77 yards! All good penetration without any failures in opening up on impact! Each had easy blood trails to follow. The bigger cutting diameter you can get on a bull the better! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
111 Report post Posted April 19, 2014 think i'm going with ulmer edges. just screw 'em on and hunt, no foolin' around with tuning. also, safety is the biggest issue. blades are completely encosed, so, to me, it seems safer. less chance of lacerating myself 10 miles from cell signal. I'll probably give the Ulmer Edge a try as well. Being a newer Mechanical/broadhead it's hard to find a ton of solid information to back them up. The things I like about this broadhead -Field point accuracy to 100 yds -Apply set screw to broadhead and use for practice -Can hit at an angle without deflection because blade swivels. -2 Blades swivel around bones (ribs) to help penetration -1 1/2" cutting diameter, seems perfect -2 blades lock on contact (turns into broadhead on contact). Blades won't unlock (close) after contact -Blades are sharp on backside, to continue cutting if arrow were to fall out -Solid broadhead tip for bone What I wish this broadhead had -3 or 4 blades -Unsure about blades swivel and not swiveling back out because of meat, fur, bone causing blade not to swivel back out. This could possibly turn this broahead into a one blade after contact with bone. Overall it seems like a great broadhead besides a couple concerns. Can anyone who has used the Ulmer Edge give additional information. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
creed_az_88 Report post Posted April 19, 2014 I can't give any information about the ulmer head but it does appear to be an improved version of the rocky mountain gator, now known as the redhead gator from bass pro. The gator is an awesome head. I've personally killed two deer with them in the past and blood trails were never an issue. Neither was penetration. The one thing I always wished the gators would do is lock open. The ulmers lock open. I cant comment about the ulmers blade sharpness or durability but seeing as how they're only 1.5 inch rather than 2 inch like the gators, I'm guessing that the blades are a little tougher on the ulmer. The gator blades would bend if they hit bone. Its a proven design that's been around for years and the ulmer appears to be a new and improved version of the old original rocky mountain version. Even if the ulmer is half as good (I think its better) as the old gators then it will be a great head that flat kills stuff. -creed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bojangles Report post Posted April 20, 2014 think i'm going with ulmer edges. just screw 'em on and hunt, no foolin' around with tuning. also, safety is the biggest issue. blades are completely encosed, so, to me, it seems safer. less chance of lacerating myself 10 miles from cell signal. I'll probably give the Ulmer Edge a try as well. Being a newer Mechanical/broadhead it's hard to find a ton of solid information to back them up. The things I like about this broadhead -Field point accuracy to 100 yds -Apply set screw to broadhead and use for practice -Can hit at an angle without deflection because blade swivels. -2 Blades swivel around bones (ribs) to help penetration -1 1/2" cutting diameter, seems perfect -2 blades lock on contact (turns into broadhead on contact). Blades won't unlock (close) after contact -Blades are sharp on backside, to continue cutting if arrow were to fall out -Solid broadhead tip for bone What I wish this broadhead had -3 or 4 blades -Unsure about blades swivel and not swiveling back out because of meat, fur, bone causing blade not to swivel back out. This could possibly turn this broahead into a one blade after contact with bone. Overall it seems like a great broadhead besides a couple concerns. Can anyone who has used the Ulmer Edge give additional information. i just killed a deer in january with one. it was a 24 yard shot, and the broadhead was sunken 4 inches into a rotten ponderosa pine tree after the clean pass thru. The broadhead still appears to be usable. i found true field point accuracy. i made absolutely no tuning adjustments, and shot money. The blades deployed flawlessly, and lock open. They cannot get stuck inside the ferrule, because the hinge action forces the blade to swing back out after contact with bone. the kid who works for me just killed a bull last september with the ulmer edge at 74 yards. He shot a double lung and the broadhead was lodged in a rib on the opposite side. bull went down fast. hope that helps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elkhunter Report post Posted April 20, 2014 If you plan to do a lot of walking don't use wac ema, I have had bad experience with them while stalking pigs, the head got loose and blades fell out, slick tricks are excellent not for penetration but for blood loss due to 4 blades, Bottom line Casey, u got a sweet tag! Drop $200 on different broadheads and see what your bow likes best because shot placement is most important, if field tip flies best for you then use that (just kidding) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flatlander Report post Posted April 20, 2014 I always wonder on these threads where are all the guys who posted last fall about lost elk? Seems like from this thread every elk gets hit through both lungs and the arrow ends up 6" into a tree beyond the animal. I personally have lost two elk, both cows, both when I was a teenager (10+) years ago. The first I felt was poor performance of the broad head resultant from my low draw weight (about 60#). The other was bad shot placement, but I still wasn't impressed with the performance of the broad head. I was shooting the predecessor to the Swhacker, the Sonoran, in both instances. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HEADACHE Report post Posted April 20, 2014 Rocket Steelheads, complete pass through on everything, and everything dead within sight! bucks and bulls. No sense changing, it doesn't get any better than that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JACK Report post Posted April 20, 2014 Pick the broadhead you want to shoot and tune your arrows to them...playing with fletching is cheaper than playing with broadheads 250 grain two blade VPA...no worrying about penetration, o rings, breaking blades, early deployment, or those pesky bones getting in the way 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
couesmagnet Report post Posted April 20, 2014 I have lost 3 bulls in 24 years of archery hunting. All 3 were between 380 and 395. 2 of them were marginal hits under 20 yards and the 3 rd one was just a bad shot. These were all older hunts but I sure wish I had the bulls in the garage. I don't think you ever get over a lost giant. Still bothers me a bunch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
azelkhunter69 Report post Posted April 20, 2014 think i'm going with ulmer edges. just screw 'em on and hunt, no foolin' around with tuning. also, safety is the biggest issue. blades are completely encosed, so, to me, it seems safer. less chance of lacerating myself 10 miles from cell signal. I'll probably give the Ulmer Edge a try as well. Being a newer Mechanical/broadhead it's hard to find a ton of solid information to back them up. The things I like about this broadhead -Field point accuracy to 100 yds -Apply set screw to broadhead and use for practice -Can hit at an angle without deflection because blade swivels. -2 Blades swivel around bones (ribs) to help penetration -1 1/2" cutting diameter, seems perfect -2 blades lock on contact (turns into broadhead on contact). Blades won't unlock (close) after contact -Blades are sharp on backside, to continue cutting if arrow were to fall out -Solid broadhead tip for bone What I wish this broadhead had -3 or 4 blades -Unsure about blades swivel and not swiveling back out because of meat, fur, bone causing blade not to swivel back out. This could possibly turn this broahead into a one blade after contact with bone. Overall it seems like a great broadhead besides a couple concerns. Can anyone who has used the Ulmer Edge give additional information. You can see my original comment on page 2 of this thread. I used the Ulmer Edge last year on a bull. To answer your question about the blades swiveling after hitting bone...my broadhead hit ribs going in and on the far side. The chisel tip was dinged up and one of the blades had a chip in it. When I got the broadhead out, the blades were locked open and it still swivels just like new. I have read about guys saying they look just like new and using them again but mine didn't, and I wouldn't reuse it. As much money as we spend on bows, arrows, tags, gas, etc. what's $10 - $15 for a broadhead? I will just use a new one. I tried Rage 3 blades before these and there is so much more to like about these. The blade retention system is far superior to the Rage. I couldn't put the Rage in my quiver without them opening, I can with the Edge. If I bumped the Rage on anything, the blades were constantly opening. Hope this helps a little. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
azelkhunter69 Report post Posted April 20, 2014 I always wonder on these threads where are all the guys who posted last fall about lost elk? Seems like from this thread every elk gets hit through both lungs and the arrow ends up 6" into a tree beyond the animal. I personally have lost two elk, both cows, both when I was a teenager (10+) years ago. The first I felt was poor performance of the broad head resultant from my low draw weight (about 60#). The other was bad shot placement, but I still wasn't impressed with the performance of the broad head. I was shooting the predecessor to the Swhacker, the Sonoran, in both instances. I lost a bull several years ago and it made me sick to my stomach. Nothing worse than losing an animal. The shot was only 25 yards but my arrow hit a branch and deflected down and hit him just a hair low. A couple inches higher and he would have been dead. I have never seen anything like it, he bled like a stuck pig. I could have run down the blood trail in places. I have never seen an animal bleed that much and not die. 2+ miles later, I found where he laid down in a canyon and from there on there was no blood. Just dried up. As far as complete pass throughs and sticking in trees on the other side, I can honestly say I have never had that happen on an elk. I haven't killed a lot of them but I have killed 3 cows and a bull with a bow. The first 2 cows I shot with Muzzy 125gr. 3 blades, the 3rd I killed with a Cabelas Lazor Pro Mag 125gr. 3 blade, and the bull I killed last year with 100gr. Ulmer Edge. 2 of the cows were hit through the ribs and the broadhead went all the way through and stuck out the other side but the arrows didn't go completely through. The cows were all shot with an older bow and 60# draw. As I wrote earlier, the bull last year was hit through the ribs and the broadhead was just under the skin on the far side. And that was at only 27 yards with a 67# draw. I will say though, I don't think the "complete pass through" thing is all that important. In my experience, if you hit them where you are supposed to, elk die quick, usually within sight and definitely within hearing distance. My bull last year went the the farthest of the 4 and that was only 60 -70 yards and I heard him crash. I am guilty of falling into the "speed game" and have a pretty light arrow/broadhead combo. I think that played a big part in the penetration. In the future, I plan on using heavier arrows and I will be curious to see how this affects the penetration. In theory, it should help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ruthunter Report post Posted April 20, 2014 Grave digger has not failed me on any elk hunt! Check them out at www.nolimitarchery.com Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AZkiller Report post Posted April 20, 2014 If all of these broadheads work so great, why do archery Hunters litter the woods with hundreds of injured elk every year? Just sayin! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
azelkhunter69 Report post Posted April 20, 2014 If all of these broadheads work so great, why do archery Hunters litter the woods with hundreds of injured elk every year? Just sayin! Not sure if you hunt with a gun or are just an anti hunter but the honest response is...for the same reason those hunting with guns "litter the woods with hundreds of injured elk every year". Typically, poor shot placement. Sometimes due to nerves, branches getting the way, wind, or several other reasons. It doesn't matter what you hit them with, if you hit them in the wrong place, you won't recover them. Unfortunately, if you hunt long enough, it happens. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
