Lee's Ferry Advice

[rcdinaz]

That is interesting! Whacky worming fro trout.

[elkaholic]

the product I'm talking about almost looks like spaghetti- they even have some other stuff that's in all colors red - yellow -greens fluorescent etc --- they are only about 2-3 in long but they do work just drifted along

[rcdinaz]

okay sounds good! I think I have used something similar but will deffinitely take some for the trip.

[FancyRedneck]

It is a food issue more than a numbers issue. Pretty complicated. Mostly midges to eat and midges don't make big fish.

 

This is true , not very many big fish but there are a bunch of them... As of January of this year there is an estimated 13k trout per km. That is just from the launch ramp up to the dam. If you want to catch some of those big 10lb trout or close to , you should hit the spawn at Bright Angel creek where it runs into the Colorado.

[Pine Donkey]

When I lived in Flag in the mid 80's, I knew a guy who always brought back two huge trout each trip. He swore by corn. He had a unique way to smuggle it in.

[HuntHarder]

Disgusting!!!! But you are right, it is unique!!!

[KidBowHunter]

I was there for a few days about a year ago, and fished where the Paria flows in and also upriver 5 or so miles. I was new to fly fishing, so that's probably why I didn't catch anything. My dad's friend (very experienced fly fisherman) caught 3 or 4. They are pretty educated, but if you know what to do you can walk away with a few.

[Coach]

It's been a very long time since I was up there last, but we used to fish wooly boogers and "egg sucking leech" patterns for bigger trout. San Juan worms in the rapids, and when you could find a long shore line with a quick drop-off of sand, rebel 3-inch minnows on the spinning rig would keep you busy all day. Drag that off the edge of the shallow, sandy bank to the deeper water and you got hit every time. Since the rebel doesn't dive deep, we'd use a real big split shot at least 2 feet ahead of it so when it fell off the shallow edge it would stay close to the bottom.

[Outdoor Writer]

This is the last article I did on Lee's Ferry, circa 2008. Obviously, it's before the lodge burned down. Also, be aware of the special restrictions that are currently in place, which I pasted at the end of this message.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lee’s Ferry Redux

Article & Photos Copyright by Tony Mandile

 

Nearly two decades had passed since I last visited the wonderful stretch of the Colorado River below Lake Powell’s Glen Canyon Dam. As guide Rocky Lovett maneuvered the jet boat upstream around the myriad shoals and sandbars, each turn of the clear, fast-flowing river introduced another panorama of Glen Canyon’s majestic landscape. The near vertical, sandstone walls in their colorful crimson splendor towered hundreds of feet above us and revealed a tiny ribbon of a cloudless, deep blue sky. The changing views were enough to make one realize just how tiny we humans are compared to Nature’s grandeur. If such a thing as scenic overdose is possible, this is one place to get it. Yet that would be a mere bonus of my 5-hr. drive from Phoenix to northern Arizona. Doing battle with a wild rainbow trout on the end of a fly line at Lee’s Ferry was my real goal.

 

I had contacted Dave Foster about a month earlier to set up my trip. Foster, who runs Marble Canyon Outfitters, grew up on the Colorado River, and his family still owns and operates the historic Marble Canyon Lodge. He worked as a commercial river guide and National Parks Service ranger in the Grand Canyon for 30 years. He began fishing the river shortly after the completion of Glen Canyon Dam in 1963 and since 1989 has spent over 150 days a year guiding trout anglers.

 

Foster had several clients booked for the days I could fish, so he hooked me up with Lovett, who lives in Page, Ariz. Like Foster, he has fished the Colorado River since boyhood and knows all of the nooks and crannies that hold the colorful ‘bows. He also knew where and how we might catch a few.

 

The first 15 miles of the Colorado River below the dam is commonly referred to Lee’s Ferry, so named because of the ferry crossing Mormon settler John Doyle Lee (September 12, 1812 - March 23, 1877) established in 1871 with financing by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. The ferry crossed where the Paria River merges with the Colorado to a gradual, natural slope from the cliffs to the riverbank, allowing safer crossing of the Colorado in otherwise impassable terrain. It was the only crossing on the river by ferry from Moab, Utah to Needles, California. Folks venturing between Utah and Arizona used the ferry until 1928, the year the original Navajo Bridge (now highway US 89A) over Marble Canyon opened.

 

The most pivotal event in Lee’s life occurred in September 1857 when Indians attacked a group traveling from Arkansas. The four-day siege known as the Mountain Meadows Massacre resulted in the deaths of approximately 120 people. In the late 1860s, various questions about the exact nature of the massacre came to light, causing difficulties for those involved, including Lee. The LDS Church excommunicated Lee in 1870 for his part in the killings. Although Lee maintained he had acted under orders from his military leaders, he was arrested and tried in 1874. That trial ended with a hung jury, but another in 1877 found him guilty of the massacre. On March 23, 1877, a firing squad executed Lee on the site of the 1857 massacre. Some of his last words referred to efforts to persuade him to finger Brigham Young as responsible for the massacre: "There's no man I hate worse than a traitor. Especially I could not betray an innocent man." In May 1961, The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints posthumously reinstated Lee's membership in the church.

 

Because of his problems with the law, Lee fled his ferry operation shortly after establishing it, but the LDS church kept it running until about 1910, when Coconino County took over its management. Today, the area near the original Lee’s Ferry is the official beginning of Grand Canyon National Park. Nearby, several buildings built at the site since 1874 and a steamboat abandoned in 1913 by a mining company, still exist. The upstream area is the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.

 

The Lee’s Ferry fishery began its life with the completion of Glen Canyon Dam – a 638-ft high concrete plug that spans about 3,700 feet from one wall of Glen Canyon to the other. Before the dam’s construction, the mighty Colorado River ran warm, muddy and free, but when the Bureau of Reclamation closed the dam's floodgates, it unwittingly created a unique rainbow trout fishery. The clear water flowing from the base of the dam maintains a constant 47 degrees every day of the year, making Lee’s Ferry into a year-round tail-water fishery.

 

The Arizona Game and Fish Department and U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service began stocking rainbow, brook and cutthroat trout in 1964. To supplement the trout's diet, the agencies also added freshwater shrimp. So the trout grew rapidly; from 1971 to 1976 the average size doubled to about 3 1/2 pounds. By the late '70s and early '80s, a 10-fish limit frequently weighed 50 pounds, with lunkers over 10 pounds appearing regularly.

 

Subsequent regional and national publicity attracted fishermen from across the country. Abuses and inadequate enforcement of the regulations eventually took their toll. In 1978, the AGFD reduced the limit from 10 to four. The effect was minimal, though; too many fishermen culled their catches by saving smaller fish until they caught larger replacements. Many of the released trout died.

 

To stem the decline further, they put an immediate kill or release rule into effect in 1980 and began to manage this section of river as a Blue Ribbon trout fishery in 1981. Bait became a no-no in 1986, and a slot limit of 16 to 22 inches went in effect in 1990. Then the daily creel limit went down again -- this time from four to two fish. The new rules resulted in less fishing pressure, lower mortality and a noticeable size increases. From 1985 to 1987, the average fish size jumped from 1 1/2 pounds to 2 1/2 pounds.

 

In 1991, the Bureau of Reclamation implemented the Glen Canyon Dam Environmental Impact Statement Record of Decision flow regime, which consisted of higher minimum and more stable flows and allowed for increased trout reproduction and survival. Under these conditions, a huge population of trout developed causing individual fish growth rates to decline. Quite simply, too many fish had to compete for limited space and food items, resulting in a fishery where trout less than 14-inches were dominant.

 

In 2000, the AGFD began a long-term monitoring program sponsored by Grand Canyon Monitoring and Research Center (http://www.gcmrc.gov/) to determine the effects of Glen Canyon Dam operation on the trout fishery at Lee’s Ferry and to make recommendations for improving this fishery. The data have shown an increase in the general health of all trout age classes (especially since 2002). This increase in fish health is usually associated with an increase in growth rates implying improved fishing conditions in the near future.

 

The department quit stocking the non-native trout in the early 1990s, so Lee’s Ferry is now basically a self-sustaining wild trout fishery with more than 95 percent of the rainbows hatched in the river. Most anglers will catch rainbows that average 14-16 inches, and the occasional fish will top 20 inches. Numbers, however, normally depend on the water flows.

 

In past years, flows had varied dramatically, sometimes differing by as much as 10,000 cubic feet per second. Thus, fishing conditions changed just as dramatically from one hour to the next. The flows do not change as drastically anymore because of the environmental impact on native squawfish and humpback chub farther downstream. Still, they do vary daily according to the power needs from the cities that use the electricity generated by the dam’s massive turbines.

 

The water flows generally pick up in the morning and scour the shorelines, bringing more nutrients into the river and triggering the trout’s feeding activity. Too much water flow fluctuation often produces poor fishing, however. The biggest flow changes occur during the summer months, no doubt the result of the added power demands to run air conditioners. During the winter, flows average about 15,000 cfs but range from lows of around 11,000 cfs and highs over 19,000 cfs. On most days flows fluctuate between about 14,000 and 17,000 cfs. However, on weekends fluctuations will be greater.

 

Lovett believes the river holds more fish per mile now than it did back in its glory years. “I’ve spent many days of my life on the river and right now, the fishing is probably as good or better than it ever has been. The only difference is the size of the fish, and that’s mainly due to the lack of food. Not too many years ago, the freshwater shrimp and snails were everywhere. Now they are scarce. In fact, when I find one now, it almost means a celebration,” he said.

 

Lee’s Ferry is primarily a nymphing river, but during certain times of the year when the river conditions are right, those who enjoy using dry flies will have good success, too.

 

The main food sources for the Ferry’s rainbows consist of scuds (Gammarus Lacustris), annelids and at least three dozen midge varieties. Although the chironomid and emerger stage of these midges are prime ones to the rainbows, fish often feed on the adults in back eddy scum lines.

 

The rainbow spawn at Lee’s Ferry starts in mid-November and goes through March. The spawning activity affects all the fish in the river, either as active participants or as opportunists eating the loose eggs as they float away from the redds. The fish migrate into the shallows during the spawn and become ideal targets for those fishermen who enjoy playing the spot-&-stalk game. Fish with chartreuse, pink or salmon colored glow bugs in sizes 16 to 18 over shallow gravel bars in moderate current but try not to wade on the redds. The nests, consisting of freshly disturbed, lighter colored rings of gravel, are fairly easy to see.

 

Your success will depend more on casting accuracy and presentation rather than how far one can fling a fly. It’s also a time for nymphing, although large attractor dry flies can be effective.

 

Midge hatches occur most every day especially in late morning and early afternoon and increase around mid-March. The fish move off the redds and start feeding more energetically in the vegetation filled runs and riffles. One rig that works extremely well at this time is a large attractor dry fly with a shallow running chironomid imitation below. This technique is very effective in the shallow riffles along the margins of gravel bars where midge activity is highest. Target rising fish with small, size 18 to 22 adult midge imitations such Adams, Griffith's Gnat, Syl's Midge. Fishing a midge pupae dropper off the adult can be very effective, too.

 

Other aquatic imitations to fish with include scuds (pink, brown, salmon, white), San Juan worms (orange, red or brown), wooly buggers and leaches. Copper colored wooly buggers with lots of sparkle are very effective. Scuds and midges are the two main food sources for the trout and the best two baits for anyone fly fishing the water.

 

Foster suggests using a 5 or 6 weight rod of nine or even nine and a half feet because the longer rod makes line control easier for nymphing in deep water. For dry fly fishing, a 4 weight is ideal. Reels should have a rim control spool and backing. Leader lengths average 9 feet, with longer leaders sometimes used when deep nymphing and shorter leaders used in shallower water. Tippet sizes normally used are 4x-6x and a good selection of split shot, sizes BB-#6 is suggested. And lastly, wear a good pair of polarized glasses. High canyon walls reflect light and produce a lot of glare.

 

If you can handle the warm mid-day temps of Arizona’s high desert country during the summer, plan on a visit in June or July when the cicada hatches take place. Although I haven’t fished the Ferry then, I’ve had the pleasure to experience the fabulous fishing during the cicada hatch on Utah’s Green River. Too me, it was somewhat similar to topwater fishing for bass with a fly-rod, but a foam-bodied cicada imitation with dangling legs takes the place of a cork popper.

 

The majority of the best fishing at Lee’s Ferry takes place upriver from the launch ramp and requires a boat with enough power to go against the fast-moving current. Piloting the boat also takes some skill because the landscape of the river provides enough hazards to be downright dangerous, especially for an inexperienced boater who can’t “read” a river well. Getting stuck on a sandbar or rock shoal might amount to a mere inconvenience, but hitting an underwater rock at 35 mph could be disastrous. The guides spend most of their waking hours on the Colorado and know where the hazards lurk. So take advantage of their expertise.

 

The other option is wading the section of the river downstream from the launch ramp. While it might not be as productive as the upstream locations, you should hook enough fish to keep up your interest.

 

 

SIDEBAR:

To reach Lee's Ferry from the south, take U.S. 89 north from Flagstaff to Bitter Springs. Proceed north on 89A. From the north, Take 89A from Kanab, Utah over the North Kaibab Plateau or come through Page on U.S. 89 to Bitter Springs. The turn-off to the campground and paved launch ramp just west of the Navajo Bridge or about 100 yards east of the historic Marble Canyon Lodge.

 

Built in the mid-1920s of native stone from the nearby Vermillion Cliffs on 160 acres of homesteaded land, the lodge was operated by Buck Lowery until 1937 when Lorenzo Hubbell of the well-known Hubbell Trading Company bought it. After one other change of owners, Dave’s mother, Jane Foster, purchased it in 1959 and has operated it with her three sons since. It offers clean rooms, good food in its restaurant and also sells licenses, some groceries and fishing tackle. Contact: Marble Canyon Lodge, Marble Canyon, AZ 86036, telephone 520-355-2225; toll-free at 800-726-1789,

 

For guide service, contact David Foster by email at leesferry@aol.com or call 928-355-2245; toll-free at 800-533-7339. Foster also wrote Fly Fishing Lee's Ferry Arizona - The Complete Guide to Fishing and Boating The Colorado River Below The Glen Canyon Dam (ISBN 1-892469-07-3). The colorful and information packed 100-pg. guide provides a clear understanding of the complex river that can provide fly anglers with 40-fish days. It contains 49 photos and 21 detailed maps. In addition to pinpointing the best fishing places, the maps show points of history, boating and geologic landmarks and access to the natural history of the area and beauty.

 

For license or fishing information, contact: The Arizona Game and Fish Department, 5000 W. Carefree Highway, Phoenix, AZ 85086-5000, telephone (602) 942-3000.

 

 

 

From 2014 Fishing Regulations booklet:

 

Colorado river

• From Glen Canyon Dam to the beginning of the Paria riffle (Lees

Ferry). Rainbow trout over 14 inches may not be possessed. The limit

is 4 rainbow trout per day; artificial fly and lure only; barbless hooks

only. Rainbow trout taken from this portion of the Colorado River shall

be killed and retained as part of the bag limit or immediately released;

there is no limit on other sport fish species which includes all species

of bass (including sunfish and stripers), all species of catfish, all species

of trout other than rainbow trout, and walleye.

• From the beginning of the Paria riffle to Navajo Bridge, including all

tributaries. The limit is 6 rainbow trout per day. Rainbow trout taken

from this portion of the Colorado River shall be killed and retained as

part of the bag limit or immediately released; there is no limit on other

sport fish species which includes all species of bass (including sunfish

and stripers), all species of catfish, all species of trout other than

rainbow trout, and walleye.

• From Navajo Bridge to Separation Canyon, including all tributaries

within the Grand Canyon National Park. There is no limit on sport

fish species which includes all species of bass (including sunfish and

stripers), all species of catfish, all species of trout, and walleye.

[scoutm]

If you are taking your boat and not a guides take an extra propeller (unless you have a jet on your motor) and tools to change it out. There are sections that are deceiving and can claim a prop pretty quick if not careful.

 

Also pay close attention to the water level changes throughout the day. You don't want to get caught wading an island when the waters going up you may find it difficult to get back to your boat.

[CouesPursuit]

If you are taking your boat and not a guides take an extra propeller (unless you have a jet on your motor) and tools to change it out. There are sections that are deceiving and can claim a prop pretty quick if not careful.

 

Also pay close attention to the water level changes throughout the day. You don't want to get caught wading an island when the waters going up you may find it difficult to get back to your boat.

I took my own boat unguided in July, and everything went smooth with some common sense and lots of patience. I often times would wait for a guide boat and follow their lead at a long and safe distance. I'm going again in May, and I anticipate seeing a much shallower river with new obstacles. A second prop is a must.

 

What amazed me (in July especially) was the flow rate and depth change from the dusk til dawn. I had a rude awakening when my boat was beached 30 feet (no exaggeration) up the sandy shoreline when I woke up the first day. The second and third night my crew and I all took turns waking up throughout the night and resituating the boat. While we didn't have any more problems, it was definitely an inconvenience.

 

The OP mentioned staying at a campground, I don't know if you mean upriver or back below the launch but this year I plan on being prepared with multiple anchors and achoring in deeper water and wading in. Ferry Swale looked like a great place for this. Good luck, be safe and enjoy.

 

Sidenote: We caught our biggest and most fish on tiny black zebra midges.

[rcdinaz]

More great info, thanks!

 

Tony, great article thank you for sharing! We will make sure we take care of the barb-less hooks. I did not realize the top of the river had a different bag limit so we will mind where we are.

 

Oh and I will get a prop and make sure the wrench is in the box. I carry two anchors, may throw in another and a second long rope!

[Seldom Drawn]

If you are taking your boat and not a guides take an extra propeller (unless you have a jet on your motor) and tools to change it out. There are sections that are deceiving and can claim a prop pretty quick if not careful.

 

Also pay close attention to the water level changes throughout the day. You don't want to get caught wading an island when the waters going up you may find it difficult to get back to your boat.

I took my own boat unguided in July, and everything went smooth with some common sense and lots of patience. I often times would wait for a guide boat and follow their lead at a long and safe distance. I'm going again in May, and I anticipate seeing a much shallower river with new obstacles. A second prop is a must.

 

What amazed me (in July especially) was the flow rate and depth change from the dusk til dawn. I had a rude awakening when my boat was beached 30 feet (no exaggeration) up the sandy shoreline when I woke up the first day. The second and third night my crew and I all took turns waking up throughout the night and resituating the boat. While we didn't have any more problems, it was definitely an inconvenience.

 

The OP mentioned staying at a campground, I don't know if you mean upriver or back below the launch but this year I plan on being prepared with multiple anchors and achoring in deeper water and wading in. Ferry Swale looked like a great place for this. Good luck, be safe and enjoy.

 

Sidenote: We caught our biggest and most fish on tiny black zebra midges.

Nothing new we would get tired of catching fish before most boats could get off the sand bar