JACK Report post Posted March 9, 2014 For those who think you can't get through bone with the right arrow/broadhead set up check out this video at the 4:30 mark... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dipanddeer Report post Posted March 9, 2014 Thanks guys for all your help I'm thinking of going with the swhacker know a lot of people that live and die by them just going to wait on the arrows a little bit longer going to a shop today to go look at some May have a picture up of the new set up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dipanddeer Report post Posted March 11, 2014 got the gold tips Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
creed Report post Posted March 11, 2014 Some interesting reading here. It didn't change my mind about what broadhead to use but I was surprised the Swhacker did so poorly. However after hunter74's experiences with them it probably shouldn't have. http://www.arkansashunting.net/showthread.php?t=158170 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JACK Report post Posted March 12, 2014 I've killed two deer and two javelina with swhackers...Three of the four shots I hit bone...those three were bent...at first I had a had time saying that they failed because I killed the animal...but there is no doubt that they failed...a broadhead shouldn't ever bend...never again...going to use the remainder to shoot carp... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jaymzth007 Report post Posted March 13, 2014 I use GT Kinetic Hunters or Carbon Express Maxima Blue Streaks (depending on what I hunting) with Slick Trick Grizz Trick 2's. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
120carp Report post Posted March 14, 2014 Wac'ems tritons or exits. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GotBowAz Report post Posted March 21, 2014 Commie Here is some thoughts about a fixed 3 or even 4 blade head versus a 2 inch Mechanical head. You know that sliver you mentioned, it does not stay a silver through hide and meat. It opens up so much you can nearly put 4 fingers in it without spreading the hide by force. 3 blades fixed heads cant do that no matter what or how many cutting surfaces it has. I took 2 pieces of vinyl and lightly stretched them in wood frames. I shot one with slick tricks, love this head! And one with a Killzone, love this head better. I then laid them down flat over a kitchen trash can. Took a bowl of long, not broken, cooked linguine spaghetti and laid it across the holes. The 3 blade hole allowed water to run out at first and then plugged up with spaghetti. That little sliver you mentioned poured the spaghetti through the 2 inch slice into the trash can. This is the major difference between little bitty fixed heads and a big slice no matter where it hits. It was a fun experiment and it sold me on choice/type of heads to use, specially on big bodied animals such as elk. GBA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elpepe25 Report post Posted March 21, 2014 Slick doesn’t make a 3 blade, I do not know what you tested but it wasn’t a slick. Yes, large mechanicals do have a larger cutting diameter, but when talking total cutting area fixed vs mech is usually a close call. Mech pros: Great flight, large cutting diameters. Mech cons: Long unsupported blades (weaker), Steep blade angles (inefficient), Higher energy requirements, May open in flight (regardless of design, it may happen) Fixed pros: Usually stronger, reduced blade angles, high overall cutting surfaces, conservative diameters allow deep penetration. Fixed cons: flight issues, smallish cutting diameters. Feel free to add some if I missed some either way. The argument is: almost guaranteed penetration but small diameter vs. massive flapping holes at the cost of reliable penetration. There is no wrong answer, just preference in performance and differing values. A sharpened pine bough in the right spot will work, as will a hatchet. I just was attempting to explain that cutting diameter is not the "end all". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GotBowAz Report post Posted March 21, 2014 Oops, Commie, I meant 4 blade hole, my bad. it was a slick trick. great heads. I agree with most your comments. I just wanted to point out that even though you have the same blade cutting surface you do not have near the hole as the flaps of hide and meat do not scratch open like a single long cut does. Using your examples I tried to create what I was mentioning. The green represents what is open. As for penetration. obviously a pass through is a pass through and if that's what your looking for (which I am) then I will make my total arrow weight high enough to achieve it. if I want fast I will make a light arrow with a small fixed head. if I want huge blood trails im going with a mechanical and I will take precautions to keep them from opening in flight. You should be totally confident in your equipment and if you are use what you have that confidence in. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pac8541 Report post Posted March 21, 2014 With a 2-blade head how long does that single cut need to be so that it does open up like that? I fully understand a single laceration stretching open and expanding, I see that at work every week. And on a scared and injured animal that jumps and runs, at least for a short distance, I wouldn't think there is a way it could close up and stop bleeding. Lots of 2-blade heads out there with cutting diameters 1.25" or less, what have you guys seen with holes that size? Like elpepe stated, even a sharp stick will kill as long as it's in the right place so I'm not addressing shot placement here, merely wound size and exterior blood loss. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GotBowAz Report post Posted March 21, 2014 I m not sure, that's a good question though. I would think it would at least need to be 2 inches. I have never shot anything under 2" though. My philosophy on mechanical is only to achieve extra large holes, the bigger the animal the bigger the hole. I don't shoot them to tune easier or for accurate flight as I can tune just about any BH to hit with my FP's. i just want as large a hole as i can get to aide in a quicker cleaner kill and recovery. GBA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JACK Report post Posted March 21, 2014 They are making some nasty wounds with two blade single beveled broadheads that are little over 1" wide...single bevels twist and cut creating L shaped cuts much bigger than their width... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPOTnSTALKer Report post Posted March 30, 2014 Solid Broadheads. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPOTnSTALKer Report post Posted March 30, 2014 http://solid-broadheads.com/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites