coatimundi01 Report post Posted October 19, 2013 So I have my bro's old bow. It's a Barnett Sidewinder 50#. I know it needs a new rest and a new string. I pretty much don't want to put a ton of money into an old old bow, but just get enough to have it kill again and I'll give it back to him ready to shoot when I get my own bow. I was looking at just those simple metal prong rests like I'm pretty sure it used to have (really cheap on eBay unless somebody has a donor mount! but not sure if all mounting is universal on something old like this). You can see the back of the rest mount and the spring. I'm not sure what that threaded hole in the back is for. As for arrows, I have almost a couple dozen Easton camohunter 75xx (xx75?) aluminum shafts. Need all new fletchings and I have no broadheads. What weight heads for an AL shaft at 50#? I want to do the fletchings myself, they had 4" vanes before. Should I stick with that? What can I use to remove the old glue? Googone, rubbing alcohol, heat gun? Help an archery tech noob out! I wanna stick a stink pig in Jan!!! thanks guys! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Curtis Reed Report post Posted October 19, 2013 Looks like the bow I grew up shooting! I can't help you with the rest question because I have no idea. As for the weight of a broadhead, to get it "right", we would need to know the length of the arrows and the spine. What is the 4 digit number on the arrows (2312, 2215, ect)? I fletch my own arrows, and use a knife to scrape off the larger chunks of glue, and then rub the shaft with denatured alcohol. The alcohol works way better than goo gone. The fletchings are a personal choice. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coatimundi01 Report post Posted October 19, 2013 1916 and they're just a hair over 27" not including the nock (sp?) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Curtis Reed Report post Posted October 20, 2013 Ok if you shoot 100 grain broadheads, you will be a little underspined with those arrows. Your set up should be good to go with a 75 grain broadhead, but that may throw off your FOC (it can get complicated). My advice is go get 100 grain broadheads and shoot them to see how they group. If your not sure on the terminology, "underspined" means that when you shoot the arrow, it will bend and flex a little too much and your arrow isnt stiff enough. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coatimundi01 Report post Posted October 20, 2013 Thanks. Did a bit of google on FoC and I see what you're saying with the lighter head getting the % too low. I take it you tend to have flyers like that and not tight groups? And wouldn't the vanes make a difference with the 4" having more weight. Maybe the little blazers with a 75gr head. Or is the weight difference in vanes negligible at best? I guess it's just a matter of buying a couple different vanes and a couple different heads and just seeing what flies the best. Thanks for the info man. I've always like archery and generally do pretty good shooting other people's bows even regular recurves no sights, so I like I think I got it in me. Just never had my own stuff! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Curtis Reed Report post Posted October 20, 2013 No problem. I don't think the vanes with have much of a difference. And yes, the downside of shooting the wrong spined arrows is that you will not get the arrows to group. FYI it is generally better to be overspined than underspined arrows. A lot of hunters (including myself) shoot a stiffer arrow on purpose because they are heavier. A heavier arrow is quieter and has more Kenetic energy behind it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
25-06 Report post Posted October 21, 2013 Dude if I were you I would give that bow back to your bro just the way is it is. Start from scratch with a bow from a pawn shop or somethin that has it all. My son just got a pse complete setup for 150 bucks. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coatimundi01 Report post Posted October 21, 2013 I plan to do that eventually, but for now I still want to get the bow set up to shoot so he can use it again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scooter Report post Posted October 21, 2013 I'd use the good old 2117's off of that bow using a whisker biscuit for a rest and any quality-made razor sharp 125gr two-blade on the market!!! Some people forget that we used to kill lots of animals with older "obsolete" technology just ten or fifteen years ago. Those old bows are still lethal today, just like they were when they were state of the art archery equipment. I'd avoid using Blazer vanes on aluminum arrows- get some 4" feathers and you'll be a lot better off. That's just an opinion, but I always had better luck shooting feathers off of my old Bear Whitetail II. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coatimundi01 Report post Posted October 21, 2013 I know! A guy on archery talk was saying that the little spring sticking out IS the rest? It just sits on the end of the spring? Somebody was also mentioning that there migh not be enough "center shot" to fit a bigger newer rest? I dunno. I'll have the shop look at it when I get the new string. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scooter Report post Posted October 21, 2013 If it's got a cable guard and a window cut in the riser- it has plenty enough center shot clearance. Throw a biscuit on there and you'll never look back! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigorange Report post Posted October 21, 2013 Wow...looks a lot like my old Browning Coyote that I still have in the garage but afraid to even draw since it's been so long. I used to have a similar rest...and yes that's all there is to it is the spring and the end is supposed to flex to allow the fletchings to pass. Like Scooter said, if you have the center shot clearance go for the biscuit. A friend had an older bow like this and saw a lot of improvement just switching to carbon arrows, but that's getting into a lot more $$ that you may not want to spend. He killed a stink pig with his...literally lobbing arrows. Decided after that to upgrade to a low-end newer bow for deer. Sounds very similar to your plan. Otherwise you could go "old school speed" and chop those arrows off and put an overdraw on it! I see you're in Tucson...take it in to Robinsons (he has a few older bows setup in the shop there, so may have some really good insight on what you can do on the cheap) or Bull Basin and they should be able to take care of you. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scooter Report post Posted October 21, 2013 Either a biscuit, or go old school with a NAP Quicktune or a Golden Key/Futura TM hunter rest. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coatimundi01 Report post Posted October 21, 2013 />Wow...looks a lot like my old Browning Coyote that I still have in the garage but afraid to even draw since it's been so long. I used to have a similar rest...and yes that's all there is to it is the spring and the end is supposed to flex to allow the fletchings to pass. Like Scooter said, if you have the center shot clearance go for the biscuit. A friend had an older bow like this and saw a lot of improvement just switching to carbon arrows, but that's getting into a lot more $$ that you may not want to spend. He killed a stink pig with his...literally lobbing arrows. Decided after that to upgrade to a low-end newer bow for deer. Sounds very similar to your plan. Otherwise you could go "old school speed" and chop those arrows off and put an overdraw on it! I see you're in Tucson...take it in to Robinsons (he has a few older bows setup in the shop there, so may have some really good insight on what you can do on the cheap) or Bull Basin and they should be able to take care of you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coatimundi01 Report post Posted October 21, 2013 I've drawn this one and everything seems to be in great shape except for the string. No creaks or groans from the arms or cams. The cable looks brand new practically. Yeah, I'm in Tucson and Lippert Doyle is like 2 miles away so I'll probably head there. I've never heard of Robinson's, where is it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
