What are your preferred gun cleaning solvents and oils?

[rossislider]

I've used Hoppe's 9 for years followed up by Hoppe's lubricating oil for my general gun cleaning purposes. Recently I have started using Breakfree CLP more and more. I also recently had M-Pro 7 recommended to me over Hoppe's 9, followed up by Slip 2000 oil. Is getting into the expensive cleaners and oils overkill?

 

I was curious to see what some of you guys who know much more than me think and like to use.

 

Thanks

[rcdinaz]

I have used slip2000 good stuff. I have tried bore tech, butches, wipeout, hoppe's, Montana, sweets and a few others.

 

I now use wipeout, slip2000, CLP, and butches, I also use Kellube on the bolt. They all work some just faster or on a better task than others. Example, I use slip2K at the range where I want to clean but not strip out the copper especially after finding a pet load and getting everything fine tuned before a hunt.

[308Nut]

 

I like hoppes and a bronze brush for powder fouling, sweets for copper and some powder fouling and JB (SMALL DOSES) for stubborn carbon buildup.

 

I love Montana extreme bore conditioner for oil and use lithium grease for bolt lugs.

[AxisWorks LLC]

Shooters choice solvent and sweets 7.62 for my rifles. I don't let the sweets stay in the bore for more than 10 minutes. You'll be amazed at the copper it removes after you "think" it's clean.

[STOMP442]

Gun slick foaming bore cleaner is a one stop shop. Spray it in and let sit at least a couple hours and wipe it out. It gets it all, powder and copper fouling.

[bignasty]

wd40 work great and its cheap

[punxsutawn]

I use Sweet's 7.62 for really difficult rifles. Break Free CLP is really good and I usually use that after the Sweet's. Finally, I use Frog Lube. I have an armalite AR10 that runs dry quickly. The problem went away after using Frog Lube. It's a little expensive, but does the job and lasts well.

[firstcoueswas80]

+1 gunslick

[rossislider]

I started using Montana X-treme bore solvent and copper cream for the break-in process and have been pretty happy the results. I've also been trying the gunslick foam for regular cleanings and have been impressed.

[elpepe25]

JB nonembedding bore compound, sweets. As far as lube goes Lucas gun oil, slip products, shooters choice grease.

[PRDATR]

I tried the Slip 2000 but am not totally convinced yet. I usually use M-Pro 7 for the most part and it seems to do a good job without the ammonia from Sweets.

[sjvcon]

M-Pro7 cleaner for my pistols and revlovers. Hoppes 9 on my rifles for "regular cleaning" and Sweets for copper fouling. I usually follow the cleaners with dry patches followed by a "brake cleaner" patch and more dry patches ... then oil. I've used several oils.

[wildwoody]

sweets

[Curtis Reed]

Frog lube

[azhuntnut]

Here is a homemade cleaner I started using a couple years ago. It cleans anything. For a lubricant, i use Teflon dry film made by DuPont. It comes in a 4 oz dripper type bottle. You can find it at Lowes. I started using the dry Teflon lubricants years ago on my AR and its much better than most lubes I used before. PB Blaster also makes a good Teflon based dry lube in an aerosol can. David

 

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

 

1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

 

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

 

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent, (aka "Varsol")

 

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

 

(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

 

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:

 

Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is breathable because the acetone will evaporate. The

acetone in ER will attack HDPE in about 6 months, making a heck of a mess!

 

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved.

 

I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the mix.

 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING Ed's Red Bore Cleaner:

 

1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore.

 

2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its

action.

 

3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use.

 

4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for up to 30 days. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years. For longer term storage I recommend use

of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmoline substitute. "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmoline.

 

5. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes).

 

6. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described.

 

7. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and shots and are heavily caked from black powder

fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a thorough flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART

whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the residue out.