reloading

[maximus]

I wil like to start reloading, I'm shooting a 308, I have to stay on a budget for equipment what do you guys reccomend?

Also what kind of primers,ammo, powder, etc

Thank you for any input.

[azslim]

I started with a RCBS Rock Chucker kit, single stage press and all the stuff you need to get started. Reloading manuals give you the recipes for brass, primers, powder and bullets. Start out by following the recipes and as you get more comfortable and knowledgeable then you can make changes.

 

I recommend starting with a single stage press rather than a turret/progressive, learn the steps individually, it's safer that way.

[singleshot]

I started with a RCBS Rock Chucker kit, single stage press and all the stuff you need to get started. Reloading manuals give you the recipes for brass, primers, powder and bullets. Start out by following the recipes and as you get more comfortable and knowledgeable then you can make changes.

 

I recommend starting with a single stage press rather than a turret/progressive, learn the steps individually, it's safer that way.

 

+1 except for the kit I bought didn't have a micrometer. You have to have one. I bought an rcbs model mike and it was expensive. You can get better ones cheaper at a good auto parts store. The powder manufacturers also publish a lot of load data for free on the internet.

[Couzer]

I started with a RCBS Rock Chucker kit, single stage press and all the stuff you need to get started. Reloading manuals give you the recipes for brass, primers, powder and bullets. Start out by following the recipes and as you get more comfortable and knowledgeable then you can make changes.

 

I recommend starting with a single stage press rather than a turret/progressive, learn the steps individually, it's safer that way.

 

+1

 

I am still using a rock chucker as my press. It has served me well over the years. One recommendation I would add is to have someone help you reload first so know what to buy and how technical you want to get on your reloads. The sky is the limit on reloading and while it can be fun it can aslo be fusterating at times. If you need some help let me know, I might have some time to go over some things.

[youngbuck]

Everything has been good advice so far. Some deals can be had on used gear, entire kits and single pieces. I would suggest buying plenty of manuals. They have a lot of good info, in addition to loads, on techniques. It is also very handy to have a few sources to cross reference. One load book isn't the end all, be all. Another thing to think about is a cronograph, if you don't alredy have one. If you are mainly doing bolt action rifle loads, a powder trickler is the hot ticket. For me, electronic scales are useless. I would start small. You will find things you like to use and others you don't. I like hand primers, some guys don't. You can do a lot of "e-reloading" reading on forums. It is free and yuu can learn a lot, especiallly from other peoples' mistakes.

[roninflag]

Max- there is a free pamphlet from rcbs that will get you started. i would buy rcbs stuff. 308 is a very forgiving round to load for an excellent on to start on. . use varget or I4064 and a 165 or 168 grain bullet.

[maximus]

Thank you all for the help.

[shaynec]

Thank you all for the help.

 

Don't buy anything! Find a friend with a reloading track record that you respect and spend about an hour with him and see what he has to say. A kit is a waste of money. The reloading guide will be fine but you want the one that covers the bullets you want to shoot. An electronic scale is irreplaceable. A balance scale works fine but the electronic is 10 times faster. Buy a Dillon micrometer for $30. Those 2 items don't come with a kit and I think they are very important to your growth in the hobby. A shell holder for lubing the cases from Sinclair Int. and some spray lube,brand of spray does'nt they all work. And it may seem frivolous now but I use my KM priming tool almost every day, along with a primer pocket uniformer. By the way you have to buy the appropriate shellhoder for the tool. Anyway eventually you will end up with everything you need but an informed friend can save you a lot of headaches and maybe some money. at one point I was going to make a simple list of what you need to reload and was kind of shocked at the total, of what I think is necessary, came to. You will have to make up your mind if you want to just refill your cases or make a quality reload that you can count on when the shot counts.

 

I have friends that reload but shoot factory ammo for hunting, thats silly your reloads add a demension to the hunt that only make it sweeter! can you tell I was drinking a nice smooth coors Light while I was making this post? Good Luck, Shayne

[rcdinaz]

Order the DVD "Long Range Hunting Reloading" by Shawn Carlock @ Defensive Edge. I have watched a number of videos and this is probably the best and is really efficient use of your time compared to others. There is no substitute for watching someone go through each step and explain it clearly.

 

I personally don't use load books anymore but will say they are excellent references. I usually get my load data from the bullet mfg's, a few trusted websites, or the powder mfg websites. But in the beginning I could not have gotten away without the books.

 

Also, you will need a chronograph or need to have access to one to do it right. You can pick one up for not much money such as the shooting chrony line. Or find someone that you can meet at the range and use theirs to learn how to use it correctly and wait until you can afford one or find a used one.

[galiuro mountain man]

A lot of times you can find good reloading equipment at good prices at pawn shops or ebay. If the 308 is the only cartridge you are going to reload, you might be better off finding someone who reloads and use their equipment, just buy your own dies (if they dont have them) and all of your own components (bullets, primers, brass and such).

 

If you dont know anyone that reloads and you still want to do it, the initial price is fairly steep if you purchase it all new and all at once.

 

This is the minimum of what is needed: Press (look for good used stuff, it will cut costs tremendously), dies for what you will reload, shell holders, balance beam scale (magnetically dampened are fairly quick and are accurate), case trimmer (lee makes inexpensive ones that are cartridge specific that work decent), chamfer tool, primer pocket brush or something to get excess carbon out of primer pockets, dial caliper (auto parts places are way better priced), small bowl and spoon that wont get static to put powder in to be put on scale, reloading book or use internet sites like hodgdens website for recipes, a block to hold brass as you load it, all of the components for certain cartridge, case lube, and a powder funnel. You also need a work area and storage area for all of this stuff. If you have kids it is also a good idea to be able to lock this stuff up (they may get curious and then it could get dangerous).

 

Some things that speed up loading that you dont absolutely need are: case prep station, full size case trimmer, powder thrower, electronic scale, powder trickler, hand primer, case tumbler and media, case and media seperator, and a few other things, but the main stuff is up top to get you started.

 

It is a really good idea to watch someone do it first, or have someone walk you through it before reloading on your own.

 

As far as components, I use cci primers, for the 308 I like 165gr Hornady SSTs for deer and 180gr partitions for elk, both on top of IMR4064, or H414. The 4064 seems a little milder but both are good from my wifes 308, and my 30-06 loves the 165s with H414. 4064 is a long extruded powder and it is sometimes a pain to work with, but it is not very sensitive to heat changes. 414 is a sperical powder and meters easy and is easy to work with (even with a bowl and measuring spoon), but is somewhat sensitive to heat, but I can only tell with chrono (no excessive pressure signs and my 06 loads are near max).

 

Like stated before, a good chronograph is something I dont reload without now, but you CAN reload without one. Watch group sizes and and pressure signs like cratering primers, and sticking bolts and stuff like that. If you test loads and you get a sticky bolt, back off powder some, and start at minimun and work up for given powder. I like to start at minimum and work up a half a grain at a time until I either get pressure signs or I get 2 loads that group good and there is even speeds through chrono. I then take the two best groups and reload that charge again, then one in the middle of that and check groups again. Once I find the most accurate I stick with it. If I change components I start the process over.

 

Hope this helps

[maximus]

thanks so much,lots of help.

[elkaholic]

i got an extra set-up all rcbs single jr- with a lot of extras - including a few manuals -

 

- also to all reloaders

 

midwayusa.com has blemish bullets on closeout prices

 

type blemishbullets in word search - great buys

 

even somenon-lead .30 for the condors are available