How Do You Pull Your Bow Back In Blind: TIPS?

[Buck Smasher]

Help or tips is greatly appreciated!

[JLW]

Help or tips is greatly appreciated!

see pinned post above in this section.

 

james

[Buck Smasher]

I am so use to standing up and shooting from a tree stand. I am going to be practicing sitting on the ground and build my strenght before Jan 1st but I just don't know any tips on how to pull it back in the blind with a buck 10 to 20 yards from me.

[Buck Smasher]

I have heard that being up that close, those suckers spot your movement. Am I going to have to lay on the ground and pull my bow back or what lol?

[Buck Smasher]

I have a nice buck coming in everyday and don't want to mess this up.

[yotebuster]

Most blinds have either shoot through mesh or blacked out interiors, or both, so they can't see in them. It might feel like they are looking right at you, but they are most likely looking at the black spot they see on the front of your blind. I don't like shoot through mesh, but a lot of guys use it. I use double bull and primos blinds and they have black interiors, I just leave my shooting window open when I put it out so they get used to the black window. Just get a good comfortable stool with a backrest and make sure you can draw your bow while in the blind, on the chair, no acrobatics needed. Good luck!

[lucky2hunt]

Try to wait until the deer are not looking ie: head behind a bush or turned, even with the blackout they can pick up the movement. Very important to practice shooting from a seated position, you use very different muscles than when standing. Also want to make sure you have the same anchor point when seated, practice.... practice..... practice!!!!!

[Buck Smasher]

Thank youguys for replying so far. Good points. This weekend I will use my chair and practice from the blind. The hardest part is going to be pulling that bow back sitting down hahaha.

[BowNut]

I don't find it much harder to draw sitting down. Practice it in your blind before you go if you struggle your shooting to many pounds.

[ZJARCHER]

Same exact way I do when Im standing. Slow, straight back, oriented on the target. In my opinion, if you can't draw your bow sitting on your butt, you're pulling more weight than you should be. Way too often I see people doing the "legolas" draw (bow pointed in the air, shoulder dropped- rotator exploder) or the yank and jerk. Both of which involve WAY too much movement which means getting caught by the animal, and aren't conducive to the shoulder's health.

[Kevin H]

A few years ago I started pulling my bow differently on the advise of a great friend and hunting partner. I now hold my release hand on my upper sternum and push out with my support hand until the bow is drawn, then bring it to shooting level. It took a while getting used to this but it has its advantages... there is certainly less movement, but the main advantage is the distance that your arrow is out in front of you never changes... meaning if you have your arrow on the rest with your support arm extended, your broadhead could be 20-25 inches in front of your bow before you start to draw. If you are sitting in a blind you are really going to have to be sitting toward the back so that your broadhead doesnt rub on your blind as you bring your bow up pre-draw. Then as you come to full draw, your draw elbow may touch the back of the blind, and now your broadhead is far away from the front of the blind. Now think about the way I described how I now shoot... if you start your draw with your arrow already near the location it will be at full draw, and as you draw you move your bow out forward toward where your broadhead already is, you can sit more in the center of your blind and not worry about the noise or movement that might be caused otherwise... also if you have to let your arrow down without shooting and dont wanna make a bunch of noise or run the risk of putting the broadhead through the side of your blind when you let down, drop your release hand from your anchor point down to the side of your neck or top of sternum and bring the bow back toward you... this will help avoid some problems.

 

Give it a try and you might like it... Also most people are stronger pushing out than pulling back and it is easier on your shoulders as you get older like me... if you can do a 60 pound dumbbell bench press with your support arm, you can easily do this.

[jeremiahjohnson]

How does the posi trac work on a 57' chevy? I don't know it just does!!!

[Scooter]

I break it down into two categories, motion and noise.

 

MOTION:

 

You may really have to drop the poundage on your bow, it helps alot! When youth/female bow's can effectively kill a deer out to 40 yards shooting 45lbs- I have confidence that alot of guys shooting 65-70lbs can back their bows down to 55-60lbs and draw easier being just as effective.

 

Put your bowsight on the deer and hold it up there in front of your body prior to drawing. Hook up your release and get ready. Once you are behind the bow limbs, it makes it harder for the deer to see what's going on back there. Wait until the deer isn't looking and then draw slowly, silently and deliberately to full draw.

 

Distract them. Use a decoy. Use deer cane. Use Acorn Rage or whatever you fancy. ANYTHING to keep their attention off of you in the blind. I highly recommend the Montana Decoy. Don't set it up right on top of your blind... keep it obscured in some brush 40-50 yards away and 90 degrees from your view. Those decoys draw wary bucks' focus off of the giant leafy box thingy and concentrate it elsewhere.

 

 

NOISE:

 

The other thing to consider is noise. Wear all black, from head to waist, and try to use a fleece outer layer. The crinkly waterproof stuff will make noise at the worst time, save it for the spot and stalk in bad weather! Fleece is silent when it rubs against a variety of materials.

 

Axle-to-Axle plays a pivotal role in whether or not you should be using a particular blind. Older, taller bows and those 3D rigs competition guys shoot can be tough to shoot in a blind due to the ceiling height. Most blinds this won't be an issue, but when you rub or spin a cam that was touching any part of the blind, you're in for bad news.

 

Seat - not every chair will fit your window set-up. If you already have a good seat with decent window clearance, ignore this tip. I have found that a good seat with a back is key in staying comfy and still while waiting. I use a regular folding camp chair with arms and cupholders and everything. I put a cheap black fleece blanket over it to eliminate noise when getting into shooting position.

 

Floor - I have done this for a long time, but another person on this forum has given this tip too- use a harbor freight moving blanket for the entire floor of your blind... They're like $8 and will completely eliminate foot noise. Remove your boots if necessary. This is also key when moving into shooting position.

 

So once you have the motion and noise taken care of, you can start to concentrate on practicing shooting form the seated position. I have found that it isn't any different from standing as far as pin settings- after all, your bottom half really has NOTHING to do with archery form. Shoot both side saddle, and between the legs so that you can cover the whole gambit of opportunities.

[Airbusdriver]

I keep my chair towards the back of the blind. When a deer comes in range, I slowly slide out of the chair and kneel on one knee. For some reason, it's easier for me to shoot from one knee than sitting in a chair.

[Scooter]

Oops I forgot that one Airbus... great tip!!! I have shot kneeling a few times and it works pretty good. just make sure your floor is silent.