20 MOA base question

[yotebuster]

I just got my model 70 (pre-64 style) 7mm STW back from the smith, had it bedded and floated in its original walnut stock. I'd like to put a nice synthetic on it, but my dad got it for me when I was 12 as a christmas present, and I didn't want to change the esthetics to much! Anyhow, I've always had Leupold 2 piece bases on it with a Zeiss conquest 4.5-14. The Zeiss made a trip back to the factory while the gun was gone to get an elevation turret, and I plan on having a Kenton turret made for it once I get a load ironed out. It's always shot 140gr Accubonds into 1 MOA, but been kind of fussy about keeping that MOA in the same spot year after year! I bought some 168 VLD's I plan to shoot out of it, and want to set the turret up for longer range (the previous longest I'd ever shot it was 600). I plan on putting a one piece picatinny base on it from a reputable manufacture, but don't know whether to get a 0 or 20 moa. It says on zeiss's site that I can get 42 MOA out of my scope, so is 20 MOA of elevation going to be enough for me to get 1000 yards out of it or do should I get a 20moa base? Also, if I do get a 20 moa base, are there any downfalls to this? I'm worried about having zero troubles at close range (100yrds) with the scope cranked up all the way. I love the idea of long range, but not at the cost of my 100-200 yard zero ability. Thanks,

[jeffro]

Run your load through a balistic program, and that will tell you if you need a 20MOA base.

I would stay away from the preset turrets, as they are set for one alt,temp,bar ect. If you shoot at the same alt,temp,bar ect then you would be fine. Most of us dont.

If you need a base I would get a 15MOA base which would give you some room on either end since your scope doesnt have much internal ajustment.

[Chef]

Here is a quick ballistic program to check your clicks available for your scope and dialing up to 1000.

http://biggameinfo.com/BalCalc.aspx

(thank Christian for that link)

 

A 20MOA base will definitely help you with having enough clicks to dial way out there.

One drawback to a 20MOA base is the height it adds to the scope position in relation to your action.

Between that and rings, it adds height and need for a different cheek weld position, or higher cheek piece.

 

As far as turrets are concerned, Christian also came up with a trick to change the markings on your turret for

different elevations, temperatures, etc. He simply wraps the turret face with plumbers tape and marks the ranges

with a permanent marker. Then he can always change out to new tape, with new markings, if he needs to.

Use a ballistics program that generates the clicks for you. (don't forget to check these at the range too)

I opted to go with a custom Kenton turret for some specific hunts. I can always go the tape route also.

 

As far as close shots are concerned, I know how many clicks in the opposite direction I need to go in order

to be "right on" at 50 yrds, 100 yrds, and PBR (point blank range) for quick action where time for dialing the turret may not exist.

 

Hope this helps and best of luck!

[Couzer]

Run your load through a balistic program, and that will tell you if you need a 20MOA base.

I would stay away from the preset turrets, as they are set for one alt,temp,bar ect. If you shoot at the same alt,temp,bar ect then you would be fine. Most of us dont.

If you need a base I would get a 15MOA base which would give you some room on either end since your scope doesnt have much internal ajustment.

 

+1

 

I have a 20 MOA base and it gave me some more room for adjustment on my ZEISS 6-20X50. But you might be ok without it at 1000 yards. Do what jeffro said, run it through a balistics program to see how close you are at a 1000 yards, you might even go past that with your set up now.