Coach Report post Posted July 1, 2011 I've been reading topics about people losing their trail cameras. I spent the last couple of days digging through some scap metal in the hopes of building a pretty tough camera box for a DLC Covert CA 3.0 camera I bought here from Amananda. We all know, if some thief wants it bad enough, they're gonna steal it, but I just wanted to see how strong a box I could come up with using the scraps I had at hand, a welder, etc. to make the strongest box I could come up with. I think the only way to steal a camera in this box is to chainsaw the tree and lug out the box connected to a big log and still, probably ruin the camera. So here's my recipe for a tough trail cam box... I started with some 2x6 tubular steel from my wife's old treadmill... I cut out a section (this stuff is about 1/8" thick, maybe more, I think 4 or 5 guage). Next was cutting out the area that the camera, sensor and IR bulbs could do their work. This would have been much easier with a plasma cutter, but all I had were a jigsaw and die grinder... Next, I had to figure out how to hold the box shut. I planned on a mechanism that slid the 2 halves together (we'll get to that) but the locking mechanism had to keep the lock inside the box. So I built in two opposite-facing pillars... More in the next post... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach Report post Posted July 1, 2011 I welded on some 3/8 inch (inside diamater) black steel tube to the back side, along with a shorter piece of the same tube with a 3/8" rod inside to the front portion. This make the front piece have to slide downard into the back piece. Now, we're almost there, but the top is vulnerable, so I made a "lid" out of thick steel and welded it to the top. Pretty good so far, but what if the burglar wants to hack-saw the back side? So I welded some "wings" on the back plate and a couple of donuts around where the lag bolts will come through. A couple of chain links welded to the outside in case I want to run a cable through it, and a little spray paint...this should make for at least a challenge for a cameara thief. The idea is to get the lock up inside the case, and not provide any easy pry points. So, if you were going to steal this setup, what would you attack? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrRx09 Report post Posted July 1, 2011 Pretty neat, how long did it take to do that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gotcoues Report post Posted July 1, 2011 That's a stout box, not sure how someone w/o some serious tools would get it. They could come back with a cordless sawzall and dissect the tree to get it home. The real question here however, are those OSHA approved sandals your wearing in the work shop? Taking a picture of what looks to be an obvious violation and then posting it on the internet probably isn't the best idea Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gotcoues Report post Posted July 1, 2011 This post brings back bad memories. I feel like the box you referenced as being pried open was mine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
youngbuck Report post Posted July 1, 2011 This post brings back bad memories. I feel like the box you referenced as being pried open was mine I've got one of those boxes GC, I have a Master brand python cable lock through it. I bought a 3/8 python, not the 5/16. I had to ream out my boxes. I haven't had any attempts on my box. I have't run laggs in it though. If I did, I would still use the python. If they wanted to take it they could cut down the tree, or cut the box, prying wouldn't work unless it breaks the metal (could easily happen if they haul a big enough bar, looks like that is what happened to yours). I have heard of theives in town that haul cordless grinders around in back packs. If a guy is haulin a cordless grinder he can get anything he wants. I do think the python locks, in 3/8s anyway, are pretty stout. I can order direct from master, but can't order keyed alike pythons. I wish I could. Coach, if I was gonna steal your box, Id pry it off the tree if it were lagged. Look into to timberlok lags. They are 1/4" hardened steel, with the strength of grade 2 3/8" lags. If it was just chained to the tree, I would beat on the loops until they broke, then take the whole box. The disc pad locks, especialy shilded like yours are very difficult to cut with bolt cutters, but the welded chain links could be cut with bolt cutters. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Rabbit Report post Posted July 1, 2011 This post brings back bad memories. I feel like the box you referenced as being pried open was mine Guess I should have my neighbor weld a tack across the top seams of our boxes to prevent prying. Still won't make them theft proof, but will slow one venue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach Report post Posted July 1, 2011 This post brings back bad memories. I feel like the box you referenced as being pried open was mine Yes, your box was the eye-opener for me. I have the same box and since seeing your post welded the seams on mine. I couldn't believe someone tore yours open like that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach Report post Posted July 1, 2011 Pretty neat, how long did it take to do that? Thanks - it took the better part of a day - with some indecision about how to make the sliding portion. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daryl_s Report post Posted July 1, 2011 Overall a very strong looking box. As I read through all these posts all I can think is how sad it is that we even have to take these measures and still hope that our camera is still there. Right now my camera is out and not even in a lock box. All that is holding it is the strap that it came with. I checked it after week 1 and that was 2 weeks ago. Going to check it in 1 more week. I hope it's still there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Elkhunter1 Report post Posted July 1, 2011 Coach; I must admit that design looks very good !!! How much does it weigh? My design uses hinges and is all welded with heavy chain for the tree strap, as well as a mounting bracket for the lags. Can you design a mounting piece so you can pivot the camera for off angles? Again very good design!!!!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Condor Report post Posted July 1, 2011 Very nice thread, I build one last summer I might have to post some pics. Your cuts look very clean awesome job! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coues&Bass Report post Posted July 1, 2011 Very nice design it looks to be very well built with the exception of the chain link welded on the sides. I would beef them up. One good hit with a heavy tool or hacksaw I think they could snag the 25 lb box the camera is in and take the whole thing. Just my 2 cents Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach Report post Posted July 2, 2011 That's a stout box, not sure how someone w/o some serious tools would get it. They could come back with a cordless sawzall and dissect the tree to get it home. The real question here however, are those OSHA approved sandals your wearing in the work shop? Taking a picture of what looks to be an obvious violation and then posting it on the internet probably isn't the best idea LOL!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coach Report post Posted July 2, 2011 Coach; I must admit that design looks very good !!! How much does it weigh? My design uses hinges and is all welded with heavy chain for the tree strap, as well as a mounting bracket for the lags. Can you design a mounting piece so you can pivot the camera for off angles? Again very good design!!!!!!! I'm gonna take a wild guess at 5-7 pounds. I do have a nice piece of steel that is perfect for a pivoting base. I don't know where it came from, but it is going to be really cool to make a box based on it. That will be in DIY Security Box II at some point in the near future. I'll probably use it for my Covert II, or Moultrie M-80. I've been testing the Covert II, Moultrie-80 and the DLC Covert CA 3.0. Overall, I like the DLCs a little better than the Moultrie based on their triggering distance and speed, but the Moultrie has one awesome feature that the DLCs don't have, which is the "plot-watcher" feature, where it doesn't rely on triggering, it just takes pictures at set intervals (seconds) and using the software provided, and you get a movie clip of the action. This is really good for watching a large area like a field or distant wallow, where the animals might not be within triggering range of the PIR. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
