TwoGuns Report post Posted April 10, 2011 I think I will be using my shuttle Ts. a few years ago I asked a bunch of prominent elk guides what they would recommend and this one was the top pick. +1 I love watching them fly perfect out of my bow. They are strong as nails and more than plenty sharp. I will be shooting them at a bull elk this September... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tcharchery Report post Posted April 10, 2011 I will be using the Terminal T-locks again this year.No problems with them at all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
drgonzales Report post Posted April 10, 2011 I have used a few different broadheads on elk. The mechanicals fly better but fixed seem to do more damage. Everyone speaks to shot placement. If you can't get fixed to fly right or accurate then you should shoot mechanicals. I plan on trying a few different fixed broadheads this year (unit 1 archery bull). Starting with slick tricks, wac ems, cabelas copperheads. Killed elk with rocky moutain razors, rocky mountain titaniums, and rocket steelheads. Clearly more damage with fixed, but steelheads sure dumped a lot of blood too. Keep us posted. I am also curious on what everyone will use. Has anyone shot cabelas copperheads?? Good luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Will K Report post Posted April 10, 2011 RAGE 2 Blades for me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1denogean Report post Posted April 11, 2011 shuttle Ts and magnus stingers! especially Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AZBUCKEYE Report post Posted April 11, 2011 I have used a few different broadheads on elk. The mechanicals fly better but fixed seem to do more damage. Everyone speaks to shot placement. If you can't get fixed to fly right or accurate then you should shoot mechanicals. I plan on trying a few different fixed broadheads this year (unit 1 archery bull). Starting with slick tricks, wac ems, cabelas copperheads. Killed elk with rocky moutain razors, rocky mountain titaniums, and rocket steelheads. Clearly more damage with fixed, but steelheads sure dumped a lot of blood too. Keep us posted. I am also curious on what everyone will use. Has anyone shot cabelas copperheads?? Good luck. I am setting up T shuttle and slick tricks on 2 differant fletching set up 4 in offset and 2 inch helical. I too will be chasing the big bulls of unit 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
luvcoues Report post Posted April 11, 2011 fixed blade foresure. shuttle t or others fly good. just make sure you practice with them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jnobleinaz Report post Posted April 11, 2011 I will only use fixed blades after having problems with mechanicals. Especially on an elk where the bones are bigger and the chance of a deflecting shot is more prone. Opening in the quiver screws you up pretty bad also. If you take the time and tune your fixed blades they will group perfectly. Out to 60 yards no problem. I used the Magnus snuffer ss last year and they did a great job on elk and javelina. They dont have any of the advertising that most of the "rage" does. But out of the box you will slice yourself open if not careful. Much better than the montecs i used before. I havent shot a field tip for years now. Practice what you shoot in the field. Most huys nowdays dont want to take the time to get ready for a hunt with proper practice. I know some guys that shoot field tips then hunt with fixed blades or mech without ever shooting them at a target. Not too smart. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmall Report post Posted April 11, 2011 I shot a bull last year with a 100gr thunder head. I hit him right in the sweet spot with a bowtech liberty set at 70lbs. I was suprised to find the broadhead stopped just short of a complete pass through. I am considering switching to the shuttle ts for this years hunt . I was wondering if any one has had any luck with complete pass throughs using shuttle ts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
120carp Report post Posted April 11, 2011 I think I will be using my shuttle Ts. a few years ago I asked a bunch of prominent elk guides what they would recommend and this one was the top pick. +1 I love watching them fly perfect out of my bow. They are strong as nails and more than plenty sharp. I will be shooting them at a bull elk this September... lucky!! i like fixed. my brother likes mechanicals. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamaro Report post Posted April 11, 2011 Hmm... Interesting all the Rage shooters... I had two blow up on me.. One on a Coyote and One on an Antelope... I wasn't real impressed... SOOO.. I am going back to my go-to head... Silver Flames... They bring the heat... Jason Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
COOSEFAN Report post Posted April 11, 2011 I picked up some NAP blood runners yesterday and am anxious to see how they fly. My friends have had great results with the rage but they have experienced the blade deployment problems in their quivers. I have always used thunderheads but you just can't beat the flight and cutting diameter of the mechanical heads. The blood runners have no o-rings or bands to worry about and they cut no matter what. I'll let you know how they work out. My brother killed several deer and 8 or 9 hogs in TX last year using the NAP Bloodrunners and some of the pics he sent me were very graphic! He had great luck with them. He and I also used them to kill our Coues bucks and several pigs in MX last Jan. and my deer went 80 yards and his went about 150 with a bad hit but both were recovered with great blood trails. I really like the Bloodrunners becuase even if they don't expand they are still cuttin' like any other fixed blade head....but if they expand (and we haven't had one not exapand) they make a serious entrance hole! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
COOSEFAN Report post Posted April 11, 2011 This is only my opinion, take it for what it's worth, but I watch and hear about A LOT of archery elk kills or losses every season. The Montec G5's are the WORST broadhead to use for Elk! I can say that with honesty based off my own personal experience, from clients experiences, and from family and friends experiences. Sure, you make a perfect shot with a Montec G5 and you'll kill an elk fast, that would go for any broadhead, heck, you can do the same if you used a feild tip and placed it in the right spot! BUT, if your shot isn't perfect, you're probably gonna lose that Elk! I don't know what it is, It's gotta be lack of sharpness, but I've seen more elk shot and lost or almost lost with Montec G5's than any other broadhead, period! The only ones I've seen recovered were perfect double lungs, heart shot, or femoral artery shots. If you hit em' in the liver, 1 lung, guts etc...your probably gonna lose em'! Again, I think the lack of sharpness is the reason. No matter how much you sharpen them, they never seem to be as sharp as a razor blade. I'm all for sharpness. You should always use a broadhead that's sharp enough to scare ya! If you make a bad it or marginal hit, you want that broadhead to absolutely cut as much as possible. The only way to do that is with razor blades, NOT a "knife" blade which is basically what a G5 Montec is. Sorry for the rant, as you can see I'm pretty passionate about what NOT to use on elk! If you had the same experiences as me you'd feel the same! Any fixed, sturdy, wide cutting and VERY sharp broadhead will work fine on Elk, most important is the sharpness. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DubTee Report post Posted April 11, 2011 I shot a bull last year with a 100gr thunder head. I hit him right in the sweet spot with a bowtech liberty set at 70lbs. I was suprised to find the broadhead stopped just short of a complete pass through. I am considering switching to the shuttle ts for this years hunt . I was wondering if any one has had any luck with complete pass throughs using shuttle ts. I have shot 3 bull elk in the last 3 years with shuttle t's. I killed my first AZ bull with them 3 years ago, one shot at 12 yards, pass through, then again at 50, pass through. Next year's bull was shot at 10 yards, pass through, then again at 20 yards, pass through. Last years bull was 47 yards, pass through. One of the best heads on the market in my opinion. Lots of heads are capable of pass throughs, it is your rig's set-up and arrow choice that has the most to do with it though. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
308Nut Report post Posted April 12, 2011 I have to dissagree with CF about the G5 Montec. I will admit that they dont come as sharp as they should be. IMHO, that is in the end, up to the hunter to ensure his blades are sharp regardless of the broadhead they select. I like them (and have killed elk very quickly with them) granted I had to sharpen them myself. I will agree with CF that one of the most important things about broadheads on elk is they need to be RAZOR shaving sharp. Replace the blades, sharpen the blades, whatever. Just make sure they are shap enough to shave with. The reason I like them is because elk are a conundrum between needing a bone crushing tip yet it take ALOT of energy to penetrate their hide with a punching broadhead. Roughly 30 foot pounds where a cut to the tip head requires less than 5 to penetrate the skin. So which do you use? A cut to the tip and hope you hit between ribs or a punching chisle tip just in case you hit big bone? G5 Montecs (when sharpened properly) offer the best of both worlds and they are easy to sharpen. On the flip side to CF's experience I have hunted with a guide that strongly encouraged ALL of his bowhunters to show up with G5 Montecs and would not take you to the field if you had mechanicals. In addition, he verified that his hunter's broadheads were razor sharp AND when using G5's, he personally sharpend them on an arkansas stone. They were scary sharp and his record for finding wounded elk very rapidly was perfect. They key? SHARPEN the broadhead. That said, I am NOT a fan of mechanicals for elk. Why put in for years and years and hunt long and hard for that trophy bull and then leave that much to chance? With todays modern bows, they are for the most part easy to tune and they tune very well. With a properly tuned bow and an arrow spined right with the proper amount of weight forward and sufficient drag on the rear, there is NO proplem getting a fixed broadhead to fly right in the same group as field points. Even out to 40-50 yards depending on how fast the bow is and how heavy a given arrow is. I find that at 60 I have to lower my pin a hair due to the added drag. With other set ups, I have had to re-adjust 50 and 60 down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites