painting my rifle

[REDFIELD11]

So I have a .22-250 with scope that I would like to paint camo colors for predator calling. The barrel and scope are stainless and the stock is a lighter brown. I have seen the tapes and shrink wraps and I am not that impressed. Has anyone had any success with the tapes and wraps, as far as looking clean and still functioning well around the working parts? Anyone out there ever painted their own rifle and had good results? What kind of paint should I use, and where do I get it? Different paint for the stock, barrel, scope?? Should I just take it to the pros? If so who are they and where do they work? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

[oz31p]

Krylon makes an ultra flat paint I have had good luck with. And a satin clear coat it dryes smooth with no shine. Ill post some pic when I get home. I found it at wall mart. There are a few write ups if you do a google search.

[REDFIELD11]

Thank you I appreciate it. I will look it up

[jeffro]

Look at Brownells. They sell a spray can called Alumahide or something like that. Much better, and lasts a lot longer than Krylon. Its is a lot more expensive, but you wont have to recoat all the time.

[BASS]

Look at Brownells. They sell a spray can called Alumahide or something like that. Much better, and lasts a lot longer than Krylon. Its is a lot more expensive, but you wont have to recoat all the time.

 

Just make sure you degrease what ever you are going to paint, that stuff is a little less forgiving than Krylon also. I did my 590 action in it, looks great.

 

 

 

But for camo, I've gotten the best look when I don't really care how it turns out and just go for it. Not very helpful advice I guess, but everytime I try to plan the pattern out it comes out a mess. My 700 play gun is done up in a wana be digital camo pattern that I literally did in five minutes. I'll post some photos later.

[firstcoueswas80]

I am sure you already know this but make sure to tape off all moving parts.. Action, trigger, safety, end of barrel, scope, all moving parts on scope etc.

[REDFIELD11]

Thanks fellas, much appreciated. Will let you know how it goes.

[oz31p]

ive been dragging mine around for almost 3 years chasing coyotes and i have has no problems so far. its not regular krylon. its the ultra flat camo type.

 

krylon ultra flat

 

 

 

it does not hurt your accuracy either.

 

[antlers]

I used tha flat color camo paints and used a fern i got from the woods or you can nuy them at Walmart. They make a neat pattern and it turned out great on my bow. Before camo was stock on bows.

[sjvcon]

You can get Duracoat through either Brownells or Midway. Probably a bit sturdier than the Krylon. It is what Ruger supposedly uses on the metal for the 10/22 (under another name).

 

I had a 10/22 Cerakoted (ceramic product that is also marketed under many names) by a guy who does both Duracoat and Cerakote in Glendale. He advertises on Backpage under the name A-Coatings or something like that. He did a really nice job. Also looked at some other stuff he did, and plan on having my Ruger .44 done in Cerakote as well ... very durable.

 

That said, there is something to be said for the DIY stuff ... sense of pride and all. I'd be more inclined to try it on a piece that didn't cost me a bunch. May do my shotgun DIY someday if I get the bug.

[sjvcon]

ive been dragging mine around for almost 3 years chasing coyotes and i have has no problems so far. its not regular krylon. its the ultra flat camo type.

 

krylon ultra flat

 

 

 

it does not hurt your accuracy either.

 

Oh yeah ... this looks REALLY GOOD. Nice job.

[308Nut]

I have used Krylon's cammo paint and stencils a few times with very good results. It has been very durable to boot.

 

The colors in the stock in the picture below are molded in but the barrel is Krylon cammo. Another idea is to hydro dip it. This proccess can be done using popular cammo patterns such as Kings shadow cammos.

 

http://www.hydro-dip.com/all_patterns.htm

 

Scroll down and you will find the cammo patterns.

[sxwatson]

I've painted 5 rifles now and always used Duracoat. Easy to apply, won't be taken off with cleaning products you would use to clean the barrel with and once cured won't easily scratch or chip.

 

For Camo I use a sheet of wax paper and cover it with masking tape, cut out the camo shapes, peel them off wax paper and lay them on over a base coat and spray it again. Repeat this for as many colors as you'll be using and then peel all of the tape off after letting it sit for a few hours to set.

 

Duracoat can be handled within a few hours after applying but for best results should be left alone or as long as possible until it's fully cured. Up to 1 month. After that the stuff is very hard to chip or scratch.

 

Scott