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Inverter 3 balde "TRI-VERTER"

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Here is what the new Inverter 3 blade will look like , It's going to be 100 grain . Let me know what you think. Here's A little about how they are made.

 

Building a better broadhead .

We spent our Saturday at the shop building a better broadhead. It's the INVERTER 3 blade "Tri-Verter".

If you have ever wondered how broadheads we made I will take you through some of the steps it takes. As you know, this is a three bladed head so with that in mind you have to go the drawing board and figure out all the features the head will have .First you have to take into consideration if you are going to step on any ones toes if you put it on the market. What will be unique about your broadhead and how much money you have at hand to get samples. I think a good guess is around $10,000 to $20,000 before going into production ( if everything goes smoothly). You need to consideration the different parts , one tip, three blades, three set screws, one body and one o-ring.

Now that you have all the parts in mind you have to make the blades that work the best , you have to figure out material you will be using , the thickness of the blade, the kind of material, The tip design, hardness it will be hardened to and the weight. I personally feel the blades are the most important part of the broadhead .T he material has to be hard enough to with stand the hard bone of animals but soft enough not to snap when it encounters it.

You also have to consider cost into this equation how many blade angles to sharpen and how much each one will costs. Once all this is figured out you have to have a small number laser cut (you have to pay set-up fees and the per piece price is very expensive), but it's better than paying thousands of dollars for a stamping die and finding out the blades won't work. Then you have to find someone to sharpened them so you can test them. With the INVERTER blade the design had an enormous amount of engineering. The small notch on the blade that helps deploy the blade has to be in a precise location as is the angle of the blade sitting in a closed position.(that's why it is patented) If it's too far toward the tip you won't have enough leverage to open the head , if it's too far back you weaken the back edge of the blade . This blade took almost 3 months of testing and 22 different prototypes to get it perfect.

Next comes the body style of the broadhead , this is very difficult due to the fact that it's one of the most complex part on the TRI-VERTER. The body has to have three precise slots, three precise holes for set screws to hold the blades in place and an area that will hold the o-ring in place. This process normally takes a week or two of producing prototypes but we were able to complete it in 11 hours, We produced 120 prototypes in the process to finally get to the actual body we will use. We first began with blank material. We cut the body to a basic body style, we then worked on depth and length of the blade slot, this process took two hours of changing data and cutting body's. We then drilled set screw holes to get the blade in the exact location. once we figure out the hole location we had to figure out the depth of the hole , if it's too deep it interferes with the blade opposite of it, to shallow it doesn't hold the blade in place well enough. Once this is figured out we then move onto cutting the shank that screws into the insert of the shaft. At this point we have a head that is to heavy so we have to begin removing material from the body itself. During this point you have to be very careful not to remove too much material not because of weight issues but because of the integrity of the body itself . It may sound simple but we built over 20 different body's before we got the weight and a good looking head. Now we had to test the durability of the new body

Next comes the tip, tips are pretty basic but you have to also find a material that is cost effective and strong enough to handle the most extreme punishment.

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looks like an awsome head. I definitly want to try some just dont want to spend all the money to shoot one time and not be convinced. But they do look awsome and one of my best friends swears by them.

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Steven awesome looking head and if it is anything like the inverter I can guarantee Ill be buying a dozen when they hit the market! keep us updated on the progress with it!

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  arizonaelitefreak said:
Steven awesome looking head and if it is anything like the inverter I can guarantee Ill be buying a dozen when they hit the market! keep us updated on the progress with it!

Me and Elitefreak have elk tags they going to be out buy then? Or if you need a couple field testers ;) ;)

Good luck with the new heads keep us updated.

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we do need testers . We have shot them into ply wood and they hold up like the 2 blade . If you are interested in field testing them please contact me

520-404-5114

Steven

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Looks like a good head, but for the sake of argument, there is a lot of exposed blade. Seems most people who shoot a mech are doing so because they want the same flight characteristics out of their broadheads that they get with field points. In a properly tuned setup, that can be achieved with fixed heads. So the advantage only goes to a mech when it has the same profile as a field point, which these don't seem to have just looking at the pictures.

 

So, what I'm wondering is, if this head still has enough exposed blade to fly like most fixed point heads, what is the benefit? Not trying to start a ruckus, just askin'.

 

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The advantage is a 1.5" mechanical head when fully deployed. You would have a heck of a time trying to get a fixex head to fly if it was 1.5"s of exposed blade

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Guest 300ultramag.

honestly .... that was the best read ive had on CWT in some time.... pretty extensive but im sure it was fullfilling as well.... its gonna take alot to get me to change my broadhead.. im a loyal customer... but i do like to the words "NEW".... i very well may try them.... any down range noise from them?

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Any tests through ground-blind mesh to be sure they don't deploy on the mesh? Could be my new head, but I'm a skeptical old curmudgeon until I've seen it in action.

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  wardsoutfitters said:
The advantage is a 1.5" mechanical head when fully deployed. You would have a heck of a time trying to get a fixex head to fly if it was 1.5"s of exposed blade

 

But with what looks like around 1/2 inch of blade exposed before it expands, does it still fly with field points from a bow (or shooter) that has trouble getting broadheads to hit exactly with fieldpoints? If it does, then you might just be on to a winning combo with thes head. I will definately try them out.

 

The reason I'm asking, is I've spent countless hours trying to fine-tune my bow to make broadheads and field points hit exactly the same. I've worn out numerous targets, but for some reason, good broadheads always group together, but they want to turn left and low at longer shots. Inside 30 yards, like from a ground blind, I'll always shoot a fixed head, but most spot-n-stalk shots are a little longer. I'm considering a mech for these types of hunts because I can group fieldpoints really well at 40 and 50, and routinely practice out to 80 yds. But my broadheads at that range are, well, let's just say, "less predictable". Just a little nitpick'n before I buy yet another set of broadheads.

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Coach your concerns are legit. MOST broadheads fly a little different because when you add length to your arrow you chance the FOC" front of center". they also have add more drag to the arrow causing them to fly a little low. If you would like to try some send me your address to trophyhunts@wardsoutfitters.com and I will send a couple out.

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Very good post Steven, the head looks great and I look forwarded to trying them. Thanks for taking the time to write up the process, it is very informative.

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I like the old two blade steel head very much but i use two layers of clear tape and not the rubber o ring they make too much noise and have to slow down the arrow.I think you will have to make a head without the o ring for it to be a real big seller.

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