Paper tuning

[rclouse79]

It was nice to see that when I moved my nock point up or down I could actually correct a high or low tear. What I can not fix is my point impacting to the left of the fletching. Both archery books I own say to move the arrow rest away from the riser. I have moved the rest both ways and the point always impacts about half a cm to the left when I shoot 6 feet from the paper no matter what I do. The books also recommend to use a weaker spined arrow, which frustrates me because I just bought a dozen gold tip pro arrows for $100. According to their chart I should be shooting the 7595's with a 30 inch 70 lb draw. I was shooting PSE 300 radial weave arrows before that and experienced the same results with paper tuning. The book also says a possible solution is to increase draw weight, but my bow is maxed out. In both books it said this is an uncommon tear for a right handed shooter using a release aid unless there is rest contact. I have a limbdriver drop away rest and did the foot spray test and did not find any flecthing contact on the shot. A heavier field point was also listed as a possible fix. . . . nadda. As far as I know I have a relaxed bow hand and am not torquing on the release, and the tears are always very consistent. . . . I just can't change the horizontal aspect of it for good or bad.

 

I am shooting fairly decent with it set up as is, but it frustrates me that I can not tune this bow to save my life. Maybe it does not matter, but I can't help but think I could be shooting better if I were getting bulletholes on a paper tune. I am shooting a PSE scorpion. Any thoughts or suggestions other that going out and buying a new bow would be greatly appreciated.

 

If trying new arrows is the only option at this point, does anyone know of a place that sells quality single arrows so I can limit the amount of money I keep dumping into my quest for a perfect paper tune.

 

 

[Mr. Jonathan]

This might be only speculation, but I've heard that as bows have gotten faster, the standard 6' paper tune just doesn't offer enough time for the arrow shaft to correct itself. You can try moving back and paper tuning, or instead go to the walk-back method, which I find to be a better way altogether. It takes more time, requires better form, but is easier to identify tuning issues and in turn correct them. After reading what you've described, and how consistent the tear is, I'd say trying to correct it on paper the traditional way will be like grasping for the wind. That's just my opinion though... Just think, after this gets figured out the next step will be getting broadheads to behave!

[Redman]

Paper tuning is a tool....it does not tell everything should it be thought as the end all (IMO). Walk back tuning is a good to do in addition with paper tuning.

 

Have you tried backing down the poundage on your bow a bit?

 

Cams timed?

 

Are you getting flecthing contact anywhere, try lipstick on your flectching ? That is what I am thinking.

 

How are you shooting? Do you broadheads hit with your field points??

 

Last suggestion would be to go to a quality archery shop and ask them to help....hang in there I wish I could help more.

 

Redman

[Garage Logic]

Do you use a bow sling for your hand? Hand torque might be your problem, and a sling helped me in that regard. Today's bows have a lot of force behind them. 1/2 cm left tear isn't a big deal. Just hit where you aim, and I would say you are good to go.

 

As other have mentioned, walk back tuning is a great way to tune.

[DesertBull]

1/2 cm isn't really that much. I would go straight to walk back tuning or broad head tuning.

 

If you are dead set on a bullet hole through paper-

back down your poundage a little or shoot a heavier field point.

go back to 10 feet and shoot.

 

If that does not make a difference there are several things could be the problem.

 

Hand torque (most likely)

fletching contact

cam lean

bow out of synch (usually causes up/down tears but can cause left/problems too.)

string has stretched causing your draw length / cam timing to get weird.

 

Again, I don't think you really have a problem. throw a big broad head on, like a thunderhead, and shoot at a 30 yard target. If your tune is bad, you'll know it right away.

[John O]

Take it into PSE during a slow time and ask them to take a look at your form. 0.5 cm is not much, and if it is something obvious, they will point it out. Usually if you are shooting a PSE, they don't charge anything for it. They are not looking to nickel and dime for everything, which is nice. 7595's should be fine for your poundage and speed. I used the 5575's on my slower bow, and they seemed a little under spined for what the charts claim, so I would hesitate to think that would be your solution. Good luck.

 

 

[bobbyo]

Forget about it! Take it from me you are driving yourself nuts for no reason. If you are getting the same tear consistently. One after another. It is most likely Arrow spine. Move the rest back to as close to central as possible. Do the walk back method or french modified( what I use.). If arrows hits on centerline you will be fine. In fact you will be breaking arrows.

 

If you insist on bullets through paper there are numerous things you could do to use the present arrows, but you are going to be giving up something. Probably will not get maximum speed from your bow. You will be changing tiller, poundage. nock point, rest center ect ect. How much time do you have?

Bob

[grizzly]

I agree with the above, paper tuning is a waste of time. I have had my bows paper tuned at the proshop and they shoot horribly afterward. I went to one proshop with my Hoyt and they had the rest moved all the way to the left so it wouldnt even fall flat, it rested on the outside of the bow shelf, they kept telling me it shoots great through paper. I was unhappy with this so went to another proshop who proceeded to move the rest all the way to the right until it was actually hitting the riser and they then told me that it was now shooting bullets through paper. In neither of these instances did my arrows group well at all. I took it home and adjusted the rest as close to center as I could get it, then looked up walk back tuning and did that and had my arrows grouping well in less than an hour. To each his own, but I will never bother with paper again.

[Becker]

I disagree and think paper tuning is really a good thing. With the new fast bows, my wife and I both get tighter groups when the bows are paper tuned. One thing very important to remember, just because someone paper tunes it for you does not mean it will shoot bullet holes for you. Every shooter shoots a bow different. granted it should be close though. After you have someone paper tune it, you should shoot it there afterwards because many times a slight adjustment will be needed for your particular shooting style. With the split limb bows, a lot of the problems arise with cam lean and there is nothing you can do by moving the rest to correct it. My bow was doing the same thing when I first got. a Slight adjustment of the cables fixed it right up. If you are in Tucson, take it down to PSE and have Zac or Alex help you out with it.

[rclouse79]

Don't ask me how, but I finally got a bullet hole paper tuning. I adjusted my rest using the walk back method. It was shooting good but still, tear right. Then I decided to tie on a new d loop. I did not know before a little research that you just have to twist the loop one way or the other to move it up or down. After adding the new loop my tear was low but my point was hitting just under the fletching. After spinning the loop around a couple of times to lower my nock point I had a perfect bullet hole. The only thing I can think that was different is the new loop seems to be a little tighter against the nock than the loop I had tied on at the pro shop. What ever it was I will take it. Thanks for the replies.

 

I was also excited to see that when I shot a bare arrow shaft it grouped exactly with my other arrows and went in perfectly straigt. Before it was to the left and entering the target at an angle. I feel like my bow if finally tuned and shooting well. Now I just have to get within range of a deer.

[June]

I think I understand what you are saying in that your new loop is tighter and closer to your nock?..Now if your original loop was pinching. (The part that ties into your serving) your nock. Well, That would be a problem.. But you are describing this exact same issue with your new loop, correct.

Most likely you did not need to replaced the original loop. Maybe, it just needed to be opened up a little so it wasn't (pinching your Nock).. Sometimes, when we are fiddling around trying to get our peep in correct alignment this can happen.. Normally you want your nock to click in without resistance..

 

Paper tuning can be a great tool to get you close but there are so many variables as mentioned before that will show inconsistencies. Hand torque being #1. A little tear shooting a field point is unnoticeable with it's flight. Once, you slap a broad head on then it will show immediately.. You got your bareshaft to hit with your fletched arrows then you're good to go.. The more we fiddle around with our set-ups the more we learn.. Ain't archery fun. Peace

[coues krazy]

Now to find out if your bow is tuned go to broadhead tuning. Shoot a group with fieldpoints, then shoot a group with broadheads. Move your rest from the broadhead group to the field point group. So if your broadheads impact low and to the right, move you restup and to the left until they both group together.

[BowNut]

I have not shot paper for years. I eye ball it then head to the range for walk back tuning. Then if its my hunting bow its walk back tuning then as coues krazy said I move to broadhead tuning.

When I set a bow up at the shop I shoot it through paper because thats what most guys want to see. But always tell them thats just a starting point.