grizzly Report post Posted November 20, 2009 It could be the arrows themselves. When I first switched to carbons I shot some Blackhawks, that were an ACC knockoff, and gave up after a couple weeks. Went back to aluminum for a while, then tried some carbon express arrows that shot really well for me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carphntr12 Report post Posted December 2, 2009 Hey there buddy. the gold tips fly good but try a diffrent broadheads with the gold tips. I've tried to shoot muzzys with the blazers on and they dont fly good. iI shoot the Beman carbons with the 2 in blazers and they fly good and they are much quitier. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
120carp Report post Posted December 2, 2009 a paper tune is a great place to start. this always helps a lot. or you can try walk back tuning. any search on google will show you how to do this. you have to move the rest but field points and broadheads will hit the same spot. and you will learn a lot about your bow. good luck on whatever you chose to do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BowFly Report post Posted December 10, 2009 I believe carbons are tougher than alluminum. Alluminums may get a "slight" bend in it that you won't be able to see and you will get erratic arrow flight. And also after shooting them for a while, they can lose thier spine from slapping against other arrows and shock, hitting the target with some side-to-side wobble, etc. They are also sensitive to "extreme" weather changes, heat and cold. Carbons however, can splinter. So, test them before each shooting session by flexing them a little to make sure they are still in good shape. BUT... they are either shootable, or not. they bounce back to the straighness that they were when they were made. But, I have one arrow that has has shot rabbits, squirrels, misc. rodents, does, a 600+ lb hog, and HOPEFULLY is going to shoot a couse buck next weekend and It's still in good shape (replaced the Muzzy head a couple of times). That's a Cabelas' Buff Tuff Carbon shaft. I suggest you test allot of different shafts to find what your bow likes, and go with that. I had a Mathews Q2 that wouldn't shoot anything at my draw length except the old Beman 400s, until I added a string loop, then it wouldn't shoot anything well except Gold tips. I have a Mathews Switchback now that likes Axis FMJs, but won't shoot gold tips, or Beman MFX's very well. You just have to figure out what your bow wants. That's why I shoot a black widow recurve now... 52lb. BW PSA recurve, Cabela's Buff Tuff arrows (690 grains total), 125 grain muzzy heads, and glove release. I haven't changed that setup in almost 5 years. : ) I have taken more animals with mt BW recurve than all my compounds combined, and I havn't had to upgrade anywhing other than the string every year. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowstringmusik Report post Posted December 10, 2009 First of all, I think it's completely ludicrous that a bow shop would put a new string on your bow and not paper tune it. If they're going to make sure the timing is correct, they should paper tune it at least. That's like raking a bunch of horse crap and not shoveling it up. It doesn't make sense. Try deserthntr's idea. You can also get on line and find directions to paper tune. Good Luck with everything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redskin Report post Posted December 10, 2009 Appreciate all the advice. Since the time has now come this is what I decided to do. I owe it to the animal and the sport. I'm going to let fly what I'm comfortable with, which at this time are my trusty easton aluminums. I'm gonna have to put the carbons aside till the off season and then tinker with the bow and arrows. I tried a few things and still didn't get them to fly like the eastons. Upgrade will have to wait and eastons will have to do their job one more year. Good luck and thanks to you all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
