redskin Report post Posted November 19, 2009 I recently had new cables and string put on my bow. The bow was properly tuned at a fine archery shop. I switched from Easton alloys to Gold tip carbons with 2 inch blazers and have had a very hard time hitting my spot. They don't even group. After being frustrated for a few days I shot an old easton alloy and hit precisely where I was aiming. Grouped very well. Both sets of arrows are properly spined and I shoot them with a 100 gr muzzy broadhead. My question is could it be the arrows or is it me. One thing for sure is I am hitting where I put my pin, and my bow is much quiter with the alloys. Like to read some answers before I give up on the carbons. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
azcoues33 Report post Posted November 19, 2009 Carbons are quite a bit lighter so they will fly differently then the aluminum arrow's. You will need to resight your bow for the difference. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BowNut Report post Posted November 19, 2009 Your bow will need to be tuned for the carbon arrows they are lighter and smaller so they need to be tuned. Your bow is quieter with the aluminum's because they are heavier. The carbons will work great if they are the proper spline just need a little work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
arizonaelitefreak Report post Posted November 19, 2009 Your bow will need to be tuned for the carbon arrows they are lighter and smaller so they need to be tuned. Your bow is quieter with the aluminum's because they are heavier. The carbons will work great if they are the proper spline just need a little work. +1 I agree with bownut on this subject Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowhunter4life Report post Posted November 19, 2009 try some icc 400 grain with a 100 grain tip, like others stated make sure your bow is tuned. if your near cabelas I could give you some help as I live in the hood. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BowNut Report post Posted November 19, 2009 try some icc 400 grain with a 100 grain tip, like others stated make sure your bow is tuned. if your near cabelas I could give you some help as I live in the hood icc 400 grains ?? or did you mean ICS 400's Depending on his draw and poundage the 400s may not work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
azcouesandelk Report post Posted November 19, 2009 Also were you shooting 4 inch veins on your aluminums? I have seen alot of people trying to shoot muzzy's with the 2 inch blazers to no avail. If your bow is just barely out of tune they may not fly for you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redskin Report post Posted November 19, 2009 I was shooting 4 inch vanes before. I also added a drop away rest. I used to have a two prong rest. I have spent the last 4 days checking my grip, level, and moving sight but still couldn't get them to hit in the same spot consistently. Arrow even would porpoise a little before hitting target. I shot the alloy today and took 10 minutes to have arrow hit where I placed the sight and it flew straight. I have read about paper tuning and moving the rest or nock. I am kind of worried about moving those things and really messing up the bow, when I really don't know what I'm doing. I guess when I said the archery shop tuned my bow I was wrong . They checked the timing and center shot. I'll try the easy advice from here first before I move things I'm unsure of. Thanks for all your posts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BowNut Report post Posted November 19, 2009 Your best bet at this point is decide what you are most confident shooting at this point. Sounds to me you seem to like your older arrow setup better. I would stick with it until you can get with a shop or someone to help you out. Or spend some time reading up on bow tuning or just keep asking here I'm sure everyone here will do what they can to help. But you need to be confident in you equipment that's the most important. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bobbyo Report post Posted November 19, 2009 I was shooting 4 inch vanes before. I also added a drop away rest. I used to have a two prong rest. I have spent the last 4 days checking my grip, level, and moving sight but still couldn't get them to hit in the same spot consistently. Arrow even would porpoise a little before hitting target. I shot the alloy today and took 10 minutes to have arrow hit where I placed the sight and it flew straight. I have read about paper tuning and moving the rest or nock. I am kind of worried about moving those things and really messing up the bow, when I really don't know what I'm doing. I guess when I said the archery shop tuned my bow I was wrong . They checked the timing and center shot. I'll try the easy advice from here first before I move things I'm unsure of. Thanks for all your posts. Redskin. The Blazer vanes are much taller. You maybe contacting the rest the riser or the cable when you are shooting. If I was having this problem this is the order of troubleshooting the problem I would take. 1. Keep the aluminum arrows. 2. Sell the Carbons Problem solved! My little rant: Why do us archers take perfectly good equipment. Replace it with something new then spend a week dicking around with our equipment. I do it every year. Completely take apart and re-tune my bow every year the night before opening day. I just accept that I am going to do it. Part of my hunting tradition. Bob P.S. Hey Dallas, Great minds think alike. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deserthntr Report post Posted November 19, 2009 ya check and make sure your vanes arnt hitting your cables, try shooting it throught paper, if it doesnt make a bullet hole it is not tuned, or if you can shoot out to 20 yards have someone watch behind you and move your rest until the arrow flys straigh at 20 yards, then draw a circle at the top of your target and a straight line down the middle of the target from your dot at the top, walk to 30 yards and use your 20 yard pin on that top dot, your arrows will hit on one side or the other, move your arrow rest toward the line, so if all your arrows hit left move your rest to the right towards the line, same for if they hit on the right side of the line, move your rest to the left towards the line, do this until all your arrows hit on the line or are touching it, i cranked up my bow and had to some work to get the gold tips to fly again, check to see if cables are touching your little slots they go into cause if they touch the edge of it and slide in that will throw your arrows off, or make sure your cams are lined up, there are alot of options and things to do, if your live in mesa close to bass pro bring it on a monday or tuesday and i can get it shooting for you. i went in and had a guy teach me all the technical stuff so i or a guy there can help you out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redskin Report post Posted November 19, 2009 Bobbyo, Pretty simple solution. I had to change cable and string, but the rest of my changes were all about updating my equipment. You're right about changing things when there was no need. My bow was shooting great old style. I'll see what else comes in before I completely give up on the carbons. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John O Report post Posted November 19, 2009 Also were you shooting 4 inch veins on your aluminums? I have seen alot of people trying to shoot muzzy's with the 2 inch blazers to no avail. If your bow is just barely out of tune they may not fly for you. +1 I shoot goldtips with 2 inch veins, and when I tried muzzys, they grouped 2 inches right and 4 inches high at 20 yards (compared to my field tips). Montecs group perfectly with my field points out to 80 yards. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bobbyo Report post Posted November 19, 2009 Bobbyo, Pretty simple solution. I had to change cable and string, but the rest of my changes were all about updating my equipment. You're right about changing things when there was no need. My bow was shooting great old style. I'll see what else comes in before I completely give up on the carbons. Redskin, I said this tounge and cheek. I am old school in my setup, but carbon arrows are superior to aluminum in every aspect. They are the way to go. Here is what I would do if I were in your sitution. 1. Check vane clerance. 2. Check drop away rest timing. a) a simple way to check both is to fletch one of your carbon arrows with 4 inch low profile fletching. See if you get the same reaction as blazers. Same reaction as blazers go to step 3. If you get good arrow flight then have to address 1 or 2. Easiest way without changing settings on bow is to fletch with shorter vanes. 3. Paper tune: http://www.pabucks.com/paper_tuning_your_bow.html 4. Walk back tuning. (I use french modified. Not a new way to get a thrill! Come on guys get your mind out of the gutter.) http://nybowhunter.blogspot.com/2008/04/mo...nch-tuning.html 5. Broadhead tuning. http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf You will be able to do all these things. All you need is time. You really cannot hurt your bow. You can only make its tuning worse, something I do all the time with my tinkering. When the tuning guides say move nock point you should adjust your rest instead. You move it in opposite direction. Nock moves down= rest moved up. Never move anything farther than 1/8 of an inch and you will never get way off. Good luck, Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamaro Report post Posted November 20, 2009 I would disagree with you about Carbons being better in everyway.... AL arrows are much more consistent... The manufacturing process for AL is alot better.. We did a show with Easton a few weeks ago... It is pretty informative... Follow the link and press play.. http://www.bowcast.com/content/view/650/57/ Jason Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
