catclaw Report post Posted August 16, 2009 Depends on how heavy of a scope you want. My initial suggestion would be to get a VX3 with the B&C reticle and you are good to 550 yds no problem. I have them on a 300 H&H and a 260 Rem. I can whack a gong on the first shot at 500 yds with either rifle. There are a lot of good scopes out there. If you want a tactical type scope (30mm tube, heavy duty, big turrets) I think the Burris tactical scopes are the best value going. Good Luck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Couescrazy33 Report post Posted August 17, 2009 thanks again for all the help. i have been doing alot of looking around. with the b/c rectical, if i were to sight my rifle in for 200 yards will all the other yardage marks fall into place with out having it custom done? ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cool Arrow Report post Posted August 17, 2009 I was looking at the Leupold CDS and like the concept but am curious as to how much error I will have not being able to adjust out the parallax at longer ranges... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
catclaw Report post Posted August 17, 2009 There are two settings on the scopes with B&C reticles. You should be good with one of them out to 550 yds. With the turrets, they operate independently of any parallax adjustment. Most any scope higher than 10X is going to have some form of parallax adjustment. My 2.5-8 doesn't but my 4.5-14s do. You can twist it to the range indicated and most of the parallax will be gone. To really fine tune it, you should check parallax at all distances ahead of time and see if the indicated yardages are correct. I found on one of mine that the 100 yd graduation is off a little and I made small mark to show where I need to set it. The side adjustment models such as the Long Range series of VX3s or Mark IVs actually focuses the crosshair and is easier to use but a more expensive feature. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
.270 Report post Posted August 17, 2009 i have a , 300 mag model 70. "Farkiller". last time i shot it wouldn't hit too good. it had an old leupold on it that had been treated pretty hard and i assumed it was bad. anyway, when i retired my kids bought me a high dollar varix3 6.5-20x44 leupold that has dots out to 500 and then a turret out to 1000. all customized to my special recipe handloads. neat scope. has my brand, intials and a big bull elk etched in it. took it the range and it still won't shoot. scrubbed the bore up good and the throat is going away. R.I.P Farkiller. me and my kid got to thinkin' about it and it probably has over 2000 rounds through it. maybe a lot more. so i took it in for a transfusion. 26 inch schnieder, muzzlebrake, square and lap the bolt, square the action and a few other tricks. so that neato scope they got me cost me another grand. i hope they don't even git me a xmas present. i won't be able to afford it. just dropped it off this morning. i can't wait. with what is probably the best shot in the world (me) shootin' it, when the word gets out, animals will see my truck and say heck with it and give up. Lark. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CouseforLife Report post Posted August 17, 2009 I have been using Bushnell and I have a couple Alaskan Guide scopes that as far as I can tell are just as good as Leupold or Zeiss and they were about $200 cheaper. I think the only advantage to buying Leupold is the warranty and service. You need to ask yourself if the extra $200 is worth it. If it is then do it. I personally have never broke a scope. Not to say it won't happen but if it does, I have gotten my monies worth out of the ones I do have. I like mil dots myself in the reticle and practice at different ranges with them. Charts, graphs, and programs are a good starting place but actually shooting at those different ranges will tell you the whole story. Especially if you reload. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coues7 Report post Posted August 17, 2009 Parallax is important....BUT.....with that being said there was a guy out a 3 points a few months ago winning the 1000 yard match with NO parallax. No one could figure out how it he was. Go with the best scope you can afford and if you can't get a "good" one right now save your pennies until you can. Scott Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joeybari Report post Posted August 17, 2009 I have a Leopold 6.5 x 20x 50 I love it but I got it when money way not a problem for me well that be said if I where to bye a scope in my present finical situation I would look into getting a super sniper from SWFA my friend has one he paid $290 for it and I have looked into it many times and I like it for the money its built well clear with mil dots, big turrets easy to use as long as you have a good idea how to use MOA not a bad scope it was originally built for the navy you should look into it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
.270 Report post Posted August 17, 2009 any accident that will damage a cheap scope will do the same thing to an expensive one. alaskan guides are ok scopes. bushnell makes a couple that are pretty good too. the difference in price is mostly the glass, and there is a really big difference. and in the construction of it pertaining mostly to keeping out the weather. most of the expensive scopes, of which leupold really isn't one, have some really special glass and coating recipes and have some extra good construction methods to insure the scope doesn't fog. they have tighter tolerances in their adjustments too. i like leupolds because they are a real good scopes and they're made in the U.S.A. but in the big scope of things ( i made joke) even leupolds aren't real expensive when compared to the scopes with z's in their name. but i have a buncha different brands. my boy has a 6-20 alaskan guide on a .17 fireball and it is a really good scope. but it isn't on a gun he's going to take back into the middle of nowhere with that he has to be able to trust completely. i have several burris scopes and they are really good too. i have a weaver on my .264. several old weavers on .22's. a really crummy bushnell on my .223. no better than my eyes are anymore just about any of them are better than i am. guarantees on scopes are only good after the fact. what is really important is that they work well and that you never need to use the guarantee. a guarantee is worthless when you're 5 miles from the truck and you can't see through your scope while the biggest buck you ever saw was walking away. Lark. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elpepe25 Report post Posted August 17, 2009 .270's got it right, there is a reason the "premium scopes" cost more and have better warranties. buy the best you can and you wont need to upgrade. It'll only hurt once. Its worth the piece of mind to have the best and be able to trust it. Ive got some great cheapo scopes that hold zero well. ive got some garbage "middle market" scopes. you may get lucky and find the diamond in the rough, but with the upper end scopes they are all quality and they back it up. if something goes wrong they will make it right. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
QUEST Report post Posted August 21, 2009 I have a Leopold scope with dots installed out 1000 yards. If you buy a Leopold scope you can send it off to LEE DOT. They'll install the dots for you. You need to know your bullets BC the velocity and altitude you'll be hunting. Tell them what yards you plan on zeroing your rifle in and that's it. It works very well! I don't like the dial-up knobs because they can lay on your body and turn the knob. The next thing you know you zero at 600 yards. Ziess scope would be the other option . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
