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Guest 300ultramag.

looking for e-advice

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Guest 300ultramag.

you shoot ur 60 yd. pin at 20 yds

then 50 yd. pin at 30 yds............ 40 at 20 yds.... etc.

has anyone used such tuning methods.. It makes sense to me, but Im curious if anyone has utilized this method..

PM if so......

 

input is appreciated...

 

beau

 

 

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I tune my bow the other way. It is called the walk back method. Use 20 yard pin for 40 yard distance and if I have a big enough target at 60 yards to adjust center shot. I don't think it would work the opposite way because you are looking for minor off center imperfections that the longer distance brings out.

Bob

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Never heard that one. I have always done walk back tuning also.

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How big is your target and how fast is your bow? If your target is small and your bow is anemic it's a recipe for disaster. I think going from little to big is a good approach for most things in life...but it is a cool question and I've never considered looking at the bigger picture in a small window when it comes to "tuning" in archery...which is wild because that is what every shot comes down to in the field. What are you trying to achieve/learn by tuning your bow this way? I'm curious because I might try it tomorrow :P

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last weekend at a shoot, one of the targets was set at 3 yards, and someone said to use your 40 yard pin on it, and it worked. not sure other than that. I know my 60 yard pin is not the same as my 20. Guess you just have to try it out.

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How big is your target and how fast is your bow? If your target is small and your bow is anemic it's a recipe for disaster. I think going from little to big is a good approach for most things in life...but it is a cool question and I've never considered looking at the bigger picture in a small window when it comes to "tuning" in archery...which is wild because that is what every shot comes down to in the field. What are you trying to achieve/learn by tuning your bow this way? I'm curious because I might try it tomorrow :P

You do this for fine tuning center shot. I start by shooting groups at 20 yards. From my group at 20 yards i will hang a string from usually the center or best shot arrow with a weight at the end as a plumb bob. Then step back to 30 yards and use your 20 pin and aim at the same spot and shoot a group they will be low but look at left and right if they are left move your rest the the right till you group on the string and if they are right of the string move the rest left till you group on the string.You will not need to move your rest much at all. Then I shoot my 20 pin at the same spot but at 40 yards and move the rest if need be. You can walk back as much as you like but I find 40 works best for me. I do this after paper tuning. Paper tuning is just a starting point. This will fine tune it. There are some great write ups on Archery Talk on this topic with diagrams showing what to do.

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Guest 300ultramag.

ok... my theory......

everyone dials the 20 yd. in and kind of just spaces the remaining sites accordingly,and your done.. not an exact science but close....

 

but if you start from 60 at 20yds and 50 at 30

 

by the time you are finished you will have a target with your arrows trending downward.... (which is alot of information to work w/) ie. the distance between your first arrow and your last arrow and the interval between each 10 yd increment should be consistent (or consistently increasing). ...... Im trying to convince a friend to use his bow on a BHS hunt and Im trying to get it dead nuts....

 

 

oppose to just spacing them out and adjusting...

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ok... my theory......

everyone dials the 20 yd. in and kind of just spaces the remaining sites accordingly,and your done.. not an exact science but close....

 

but if you start from 60 at 20yds and 50 at 30

 

by the time you are finished you will have a target with your arrows trending downward.... (which is alot of information to work w/) ie. the distance between your first arrow and your last arrow and the interval between each 10 yd increment should be consistent (or consistently increasing) and possibly adjust the site itself to accommodate any discrepencies between a ten yd. pin and taking that info. and being able to find the exact distance and how much each pin distance needs to be increased as you get closer to 90yds. and so on...... Im trying to convince a friend to use his bow on a BHS hunt and Im trying to get it dead nuts....

 

 

oppose to just spacing them out and adjusting...

:blink: :blink: :blink: :blink: :blink: :blink: :blink: :blink: :blink: :blink: :blink: :blink:

 

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Guest 300ultramag.
ok... my theory......

everyone dials the 20 yd. in and kind of just spaces the remaining sites accordingly,and your done.. not an exact science but close....

 

but if you start from 60 at 20yds and 50 at 30

 

by the time you are finished you will have a target with your arrows trending downward.... (which is alot of information to work w/) ie. the distance between your first arrow and your last arrow and the interval between each 10 yd increment should be consistent (or consistently increasing). ...... Im trying to convince a friend to use his bow on a BHS hunt and Im trying to get it dead nuts....

 

 

oppose to just spacing them out and adjusting...

 

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Guest 300ultramag.

cmon dallas.... crunch some numbers brother its just physics.... F=MA

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1+1=2

but when does the bow tuning start in all that LOL :lol:

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ok... my theory......

everyone dials the 20 yd. in and kind of just spaces the remaining sites accordingly,and your done.. not an exact science but close....

 

but if you start from 60 at 20yds and 50 at 30

 

by the time you are finished you will have a target with your arrows trending downward.... (which is alot of information to work w/) ie. the distance between your first arrow and your last arrow and the interval between each 10 yd increment should be consistent (or consistently increasing). ...... Im trying to convince a friend to use his bow on a BHS hunt and Im trying to get it dead nuts....

 

 

oppose to just spacing them out and adjusting...

 

You can do this only if his bow is tuned to start with. Which means the downward trend the arrows take would have to be a straight line down. The center shot would have to be set first. The way I set my center shot is walk back tuning like the other posters have suggested before. It should work though. Form and tuning is what may throw you guys off just as any other tuning methods.

 

I understand what your trying to get at with making sure checking the gaps of the arrow. I usually just set my 20 pin then walk back tune before setting my other pins. Once I know my center shot is on then I'll set my next pin and so forth. Once I'm done with all my pins then I check the gaps within my sight to see if there are any inconsistances there.

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