coocoo4coues Report post Posted January 23, 2009 Are you canting your bow from vertical causing your pins to slant, thus giving you the wrong pin placement at longer ranges, especially the 40-,50 yards pins?'' You will not notice much difference at 20-30 yards but beyond that, a big difference. Not consciously. Would I need a sight with a level to prevent this? This is very frustrating Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamaro Report post Posted January 23, 2009 If you are a righty and you are hitting left inconsistently, you might want to make sure your draw length isn't too long. It is common for righties to push the bow to the left if the draw length is too long.. J I'm righty, but hitting "right" inconsistently. You are okay... I should have mentioned that was to casey.... Just move the frame... and check your 2nd Axis. let us know how it turns out... J Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firstcoueswas80 Report post Posted January 23, 2009 J, If anything, my draw lenght is too short... 29" and I am 6'3 with as long/if not slightly longer than average length arms. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
COOSEFAN Report post Posted January 23, 2009 I had the same problem yesterday while fine tuning my longer yardage pins. For me it was the angle of my sight. I have the Spot Hogg Hunter Hogg-it sight and even though the verticle wire visually appeared to be straight up and down it was off very slightly. This caused me to shoot farther to the right increasingly with the longer distances. I wasn't paying enough attention to the bubble level either, not sure if I would have caught the problem earlier with that or not. The fine tuning adjustments came in very handy and lining it all up fixed my problem. Best of luck, JIM> Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BowNut Report post Posted January 23, 2009 I had the same problem yesterday while fine tuning my longer yardage pins. For me it was the angle of my sight. I have the Spot Hogg Hunter Hogg-it sight and even though the verticle wire visually appeared to be straight up and down it was off very slightly. This caused me to shoot farther to the right increasingly with the longer distances. I wasn't paying enough attention to the bubble level either, not sure if I would have caught the problem earlier with that or not. The fine tuning adjustments came in very handy and lining it all up fixed my problem. Best of luck, JIM> Jim Don't forget your 3rd Axis. It will make a huge difference shooting up or down hill at that big buck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BowNut Report post Posted January 23, 2009 Are you canting your bow from vertical causing your pins to slant, thus giving you the wrong pin placement at longer ranges, especially the 40-,50 yards pins?'' You will not notice much difference at 20-30 yards but beyond that, a big difference. Not consciously. Would I need a sight with a level to prevent this? This is very frustrating I would defiantly look into a sight with a level. They are not cheep but a Spot Hogg is the way to go. IMO They have all the adjustment you need.I have had the same sight on about 4 bows they are almost bullet proof. Well BowNut proof and thats saying something! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tines Report post Posted January 23, 2009 You've gotten good advice here. Try hanging something at the top third of your target on a string. Start with your first pin and aim at the top of the string/rope. Proceed to move back in 10yrd incriments out to 40 or 50yds, aiming with your first pin on the same spot (top of the string). So basically, even at 40 yds, you're still aiming with your first pin. Obviously you'll hit low, but the straight line gives you a good reference if there's actually windage issues. I think they called it plum-bobbing. It'll give you an idea whether or not it's you that's needs the adjustment. Sounds like you may have it figured out though. It's a pretty simple machine and there isn't much that can't be figured out.... good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bobbyo Report post Posted January 23, 2009 A level is a must for long range shooting IMHO. One other thing to think about. How big is your peep sight. If it is one of the larger peeps you might be moving your head slightly when adjusting the bow for 50 yards. and looking through the peep at a different angle. If this is the case the "rights at 50" might suddenly disappear with more practice only to reappear after a layoff from shooting. Is your 20 30 and 40 shots on line and then suddenly right at 50? Are your pins the same size? I use to have large pins at 20 -40 then used micro pins at distances beyond. This caused me to group offline even though the pins were vertically aligned. Try shooting with quiver off? If you are consistently canting your bow as mentioned you might have a group like this. slightly left at 20, dead on at 30 slightly right at 40. way right at 50 and then further right at longer distances. I am sure thinking about everything we talked about will improve shooting. The more you think the better you shoot right. Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coocoo4coues Report post Posted January 23, 2009 I knew my question would get a lot of good feedback. Thanks for all the great advice! I have some shooting to do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ndaniel Report post Posted January 23, 2009 Listen to what Tines said, more than likely it's your centershot that's off Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jamaro Report post Posted January 23, 2009 Listen to what Tines said, more than likely it's your centershot that's off Not trying to be confrontational but.... But once you start adjusting your center shot you are going to start changing the tune of the bow. This might fix your problem with sighting in but they you will be out of tune. IMO 1) make sure you are center shot 2) check your 2nd and 3rd axis 3) move your sight frame right. J Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elecshoc Report post Posted January 23, 2009 can you post your setup w/ draw length, weight and arrow setup... it could be a few things going on with your rig... I would first make sure your arrows are the right arrows for your setup... once you make sure its correct then you can start tuning your bow... first thing in tuning your bow is making sure that your form is good...(no torquing or canting the bow)... there are some great suggestions that were proposed earlier in the thread... it sounds like you may have your center shot just slightly off... the method suggested earlier by Tines is the best way to get your rig shooting straight (imo)... try looking for the easton setup manuel, it has some great info on bare shaft tuning and walkback tuning, which are the two methods that are used to get rigs shooting straight... if you need to send me your e-mail address and I can send you the manual... good luck and let us know how it worked out... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coues 'n' Sheep Report post Posted January 23, 2009 c4c, I too am a righty that can easilly shoot right.... I find that when I don't shoot a ton that my mechanics suffers. I often shoot right because I am not holding through the shot... it will also make for a larger "group" at longer range. It is a natural reflex to try to hurry up and see where you hit.... and it does move your shot to the right, IMO. Before you go moving anything try counting to 3 after you shoot, before you alow anything on your body to move.... might help.... might not.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kaffer62 Report post Posted January 23, 2009 You've gotten good advice here. Try hanging something at the top third of your target on a string. Start with your first pin and aim at the top of the string/rope. Proceed to move back in 10yrd incriments out to 40 or 50yds, aiming with your first pin on the same spot (top of the string). So basically, even at 40 yds, you're still aiming with your first pin. Obviously you'll hit low, but the straight line gives you a good reference if there's actually windage issues. I think they called it plum-bobbing. It'll give you an idea whether or not it's you that's needs the adjustment. Sounds like you may have it figured out though. It's a pretty simple machine and there isn't much that can't be figured out.... good luck! I have always know this to be the "Walk Back Method" which works extremely well, for tuning your centershot. It is a lot better to do it this way, instead of paper tuning( which i dont believe in considering your arrow is oscillating differently at different distances as its exiting the bow) I would have someone watch you shoot, and then maybe have them shoot to see if they are having the same issues. Tuning and tinkering with your bow is just about as fun as shooting it. Plus if you do decide to tinker with it. You will understand it and be able to tell right away if something is off. As Elecshoc stated as well, Walk back method and bare shaft tuning is the way to go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigBfever Report post Posted January 23, 2009 if your bow was shooting fine a week or so ago and now its shooting right at 40+ yards you have a lot of good advice that can help fix the problem, being I ask about your rest and cam is that if you have a hight torque bow rest can play a big part but with drop away i don't think that is your problem at all. If you are still having problems when you are certain everything is in line make sure that your cams are both releasing at the same time. strings stretch, cams come out of sync and split limb design can have different torque ratings per limb from factory. (It was built on a monday or Friday) theres alot of variables. some time when problems happen during season it's just best to take the arrow/broadhead and tune it for your hunts and not so much for target shooting. It can be a little bit more expensive but you can always target shoot with your hunting tips. Good luck hope you get it figured out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
