Ruger No. 1

[WBGS]

I am thinking about buying a Ruger No. 1 one to use for my primary big game rifle. I was just wondering if anyone has one, and how they like it. Anyone have any experinces with them bad or good? I am mainly concerned with accuracy at longer ranges. Any input on the new calibers would be helpful also.

[blaserman]

THIS IS A VERY GOOD RIFLE. I USED TO BE A VERY HEAVY #1 COLLECTOR.

THERE ARESOME GUN SMITHS AROUND THE COUNTRY THAT CAN IMPROVE THE ACURACY OF THE #1. THEY PUT A SET SCREW TO INPROVE ACURACY, THAT

I THINK PUTS PRESURE ON THE BARREL. ALSO THE TRIGER CAN BE IMPROVED.

AS FOR CALIBER YOUR CHOICE, 300 WBY, 7MM STW,, ANY ALTRA MAGS

HOW MUCH RECOIL DO YOU WANT, MUZZLE BREAK, OR NOT?????????????

 

 

 

 

BLASERMAN

[jlhcoues]

Ive shot rugers for 30 years, you cant go wrong. The only thing I would like to see is a lighter trigger pull. If you change it you will void the warranty, its the chance you take ,I change mine and never had a problem

[WBGS]

Thanks, I thought it was a decent rifle, just never owned one. What trigger would you recomend to put in it? I will search for a gunsmith who can tune on them a little. I like the simplcity of them. I travle on a horse quite a bit while hunting. I am hoping this rifle will fit a scabord like a lever action, but be as acuarte as a bolt action. I wonder if they come in the 300 wsm yet.

[257stw]

I have worked on quite a few of the #1's and they are great. Try n find a local gunsmith that works on them a lot, since there are little tricks to them that you can only learn by workin on 'em. There are really only two choices with the trigger, either have a gunsmith work on it or relace it with either a Kepplinger or Moyers, with the Kepplinger being the nicer of the two. Most of them shoot well and from the aspect of a long range gun, they will be about four inches shorter than a bolt action with same length barrels, so a 28" barreled #1 would be about the same length as a 24" bolt action (approximately).

[Benbrown]

I have two Number 1s--a .22-250 in a No. 1-B and a .338-06 in a No. 1-A. The 1-B's are pretty heavy for carrying around, and even the 1-A's are excessively heavy in the standard calibers below .30-06. That is the only drawback that I have found in more than a decade of using these rifles.

 

You don't need an aftermarket trigger. Any good gunsmith who is familiar with Rugers can adjust the trigger to a crisp, safe condition. My .22-250 breaks cleanly at a hair over 2 1/2 pounds and the .338-06 does the same at just about 3 1/2 pounds even. The .22-250 shot really well right out of the box, but I had the trigger work done to get it like I wanted. The .338-06 has also had the trigger adjusted and the fore-end glass-bedded.

 

My gunsmith knows the set screw set-up with the fore-end hanger, but recommends glass bedding the fore-end first. That is often all that is needed to shrink group sizes. If that doesn't do the trick, you can add the set screw. A young friend of mine bought a No. 1-B stainless in 7mm Remington Magnum last year and it did not shoot all that well out of the box. I took it to the gunsmith and he glass-bedded the fore-end, line-bored the scope rings and adjusted the trigger, and the bill was right around $70. It now shoots like it ought to.

 

I don't shoot the .22-250 all that much as I have a really nice Belgium Browning bolt gun in that caliber that I prefer to carry. However, I carry the .338-06 every day that I am elk hunting, and have shot a couple of mule deer and a pronghorn using 175 grain Barnes bullets, as well.

 

They are really nice rifles and the No. 1-A's are just made for a saddle scabbard. I have carried mine on several lion hunts, but have never needed it because the lions have all been well within handgun range.

[WBGS]

Thanks guys, That is some real good info. Hopefully I can get mine soon so I can get it set up.