Accuracy with broadheads

[bgirdler]

This is where i find most of the information that I refer too its put out by easton so you know its good stuff and has a lot of good tuning methods. I learned about the bareshaft method of tuning in here that elecshoc mentioned and liked it It was confusing at first but once I got into it was fine. Anyways its a good reference manual for anyone to have new to the sport or not:

 

http://www.willowcreekarchery.com/Easton-a...uning_guide.pdf

 

Great link thanks!!! confirms my frustration with lateral adjustments ( see my part 2 post for my tuning session attempt)

[galiuro mountain man]

The very best way to make them group is to broadhead tune after paper tune. It will actually make your field points group better too. First, paper tune to a perfect bullet hole. Then put on your broadheads, and indexing does make a difference, but only for real long shots. Go out to about 30 yards to start. Shoot 3 field points then a bh. If the shot felt good and the bh is way off move the rest in the direction from the bh towards the fp. If you think you may have bobbled or pulled the shot shoot another before moving your rest.

 

Pull your arrows and shoot again after moving your rest 1/32" to 1/16" toward your fp. Go back to 30 yds and shoot again. Dont worry about the arrows not hitting your spot, all you are concerned about is your grouping, you should only move your sights if you think you will miss the entire target. Continue to do the above steps untill you get them grouping together tightly.

 

Some bh types wont tune out of fast bows very well, if they are over 6" to 8" from field points at 30 yards they probably wont tune in very well. Also, if you have one bh that doesnt group with the others, switch the bh with one of the fp and see if it groups.

 

If you get the bh grouping within an inch or so from the fp you can move back and tune them even closer. Move back to 50 or 60 yards and repeat the steps (just mke sure to resight the fp at 30 yards before doing this, you may miss the target all together). This time move the rest 1/64" to 1/32" toward the fp. It really helps to have a micro adjust rest. Once they are tuned you can be confident to this range. All that is left to do is shoot all of the bh and find the ones that group the best.

 

When I tune bhs I have to shoot at two different spots, one for fps and one for bh, or I will ruin arrows. I get them close, then I use different spots and use a tape measure to verify groups. If it is done right your sights will work for both with one setting. My hunting shots rarely go over 60 yards, but I check them out to 90 yds, and my bh groups are just barely over one inch below my fp groups, but I spent about two days to tune them perfectly, then I verified with a shooting machine. I know if I miss it is because I did something wrong and not my bow.

 

After all of this is done dont shoot paper again, most of the time your bow wont shoot bullets, it will be close, but not perfect. The reason it will group better without bullets is because you are lightly forcing the arrow into a direction and the wind and other things have less effect on flight before the arrow starts spinning. I have messed around with this on my shooting machine and I have not found a single bow and arrow combination this has not worked on. Most of the time the tear is only about 1/8" to 1/4" off, it also helps with under or over spined arrows, by helping to counteract the way they come off the bow. The only thing I use paper tuning for is a starting point for the rest of my tuning.

 

Walkback tuning is pretty good for competion shooting, but for hunting I have always used bh group tuning. That way once I am done I can just use fps for practice and I know that my bhs will work with the same sight setting. If I do use walkback for bhs I will usually group tune first and then make sure I can cut the string at different distances. I will shoot two spots at 20 yards with fps. Then I will walkback and shoot one fp at one spot and shoot the othe with bhs.

 

Another thing to think about is if the bow is in time. Binary and cam and a half systems can come out of time (even though the manufacturers say they cant), and it will effect the flight of your arrows, and depending on how bad it is out is how bad the arrows witll fly.

 

I didnt notice if you show what kind of bow you have, if you PM me I can tell you easy ways to check most bows.

 

Hope this helps