Accuracy with broadheads

[beanz2166]

if your shooting a fast bow, MUZZYs STINK. Anything over 300fps and I couldnt get them to group. Now there are several fixed blades that will work well, but not the muzzy

[bgirdler]

if your shooting a fast bow, MUZZYs STINK. Anything over 300fps and I couldnt get them to group. Now there are several fixed blades that will work well, but not the muzzy

 

Not sure what speed I'm at but prolly not 300. couple year old pse nova, 63# draw 29" draw length

[BowNut]

It is a good idea to review a following. Laser tuning is only one step in the process, some broadheads are more forgiving than others, but Muzzys should fly great.

 

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.p...roadhead+tuning

 

Redman

 

Correct paper tuning and laser tuning are just a start. The Archery Talk post Redman posted is the best I have seen you should have no problem getting your Muzzys to shoot well buy following this post.

Other things to look at:

1) Are your arrows the correct spline arrow for your bow weight and draw length?

2) You may have said it but what rest are you shooting? Even with a drop away rest use spray foot powder on the vanes and check for contact

3) Have you spun your arrows with the broadheads? If they are not aligned properly and wobble this will cause them not to group. Rubber Orings or the G5 tool will fix this problem most of the time.

4)Not saying you are doing it but a lot of people when shooting broadheads will Peek or Look to see where the arrow is going more often then when they are shooting field point. I know I have and do I it myself.This will cause low or lefts on right hand shooters. If you are shooting a Biscuit style rest and move at all before the arrow leaves the rest this will cause poor arrow flight.

Also as Doug said try walk back tuning. I feel this is the best way to tune a bow. You can even take it one step futher and tune each arrow. If you do the walk back tuning and still have an arrow or two that will not group on the line with the rest turn the nock so the odd vane is in a anouther position. Sometimes this will bring it back into the group.

Hope this helps. Keep us posted.

[Coach]

Lots of good replys here so far. I spent a lot of time working with my bow a couple seasons ago to get the field point and bh's to group together and after literally months of tiny adjustments to the rest, loop etc. I got very close but I could shoot a random mix of 3-5 bh's and 3-5 field points and it was obvious that the field points would tend to be in one portion of the group and the broadheads in another. That said, muzzy, slick trick magnus stingers, g5 strikers and Montecs (believe me I tried them all) all group together now and VERY close to field points.

 

So what I do now is practice in the off season with field points but in the weeks leading up to a hunt I practice exclusively with the broadheads I'll be hunting with - just have to learn how to sharpen them really well or stock up on replacement blades.

 

In the end, like the other guys here have said - it comes down to tuning. The laser alignment is a good start, and paper tuning is a good start, but in my (admittedly limited) experience those are just starting points and there is usually a lot more time involved in tuning for broadheads. As close as mine came, I know there is probably some tweaking to do.

 

Now comes the hard part - getting within bow range of a deer!

[bgirdler]

It is a good idea to review a following. Laser tuning is only one step in the process, some broadheads are more forgiving than others, but Muzzys should fly great.

 

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.p...roadhead+tuning

 

Redman

 

Thanks for all the tips guys! I think I will try the method above tomorrow when I can shoot again. I'll let you all know how it goes.

[Kuma]

 

I would suggest the "walkback tuning" method as well.

 

I spent a lot of time tuning my bow by the "paper" method and have it perform poorly on the walkback method. I think that the walkback method tells a hunter more about his/her bow than any other. I surly like to know that my bow is going to shoot 4-5 inches to either side at 50 yards, wouldn't you?

 

 

 

 

[paul navarre]

Well, at least you are asking the question now, and not after you missed or wounded an animal because of a misplaced arrow.

 

As was stated earlier, there are some broadheads that just do not shoot like field tips. And this is regardless if the bow is fined tuned or not. Both of my bows were paper tuned, etc, etc.

 

I experienced this with Thunderheads, 3 bld. They shot 6 inchs low and 3-4 inches to the left at thirty yards. For years, prior to hunting season, I adjusted my sight to accomodate the difference. I kill various big game species from elk, deer, pronghorn, and sheep, goat, bear, mt. lion.

 

Three years ago I switch to Magnus 4bls Stingers and they shoot EXACTALLY where my field tips impact. No more, pre hunting adjustments.

 

I killed an elk, and two whitetails this year with the same arrow and broadhead (just resharpened) and plan on killing a coues deer when I come down in January with the same arrowbh

 

If your broadheads do not impact the same as your field tips and you can not affort new BH, just adjust your pins. There is nothing really wrong with Muzzy BHs as they have accounted for many big game animals.

 

There is no doubt that fixed BH are less forgiving and they require that your bow is tuned and theat your shooting mechanics are proper. Even mechanical BHs will not forgive poor shooting form. Practice, practice, and then practice some more.

 

It is amazing to me how many bow hunters never shoot BHs prior to the hunting season and just presume that they impact like field tips.

 

Thanks for the great question. Paul

[bigmo101]

Shoot it through paper exactly 9 feet from the front of your bow to the paper. Get a perfect bullet whole, and none of this its good enough stuff. PERFECT BULLET HOLE! Then step back and sight in. After that shoot a broadhead and then a field point. Group together everytime for me.

[firstcoueswas80]

I havent read what everyone has said so here goes my answer:

 

I REALLY like Wac'em 100 grian 3 blades. They fly F-A-N-T-A-S-T-I-C!!! I shot a 3" group at 50 yards with them and that is not the norm for me!

 

I have shot Muzzy's as well, and they didnt fly as great, neither did the Shuttle- T lockts ( I was actually pretty disapointed in them, they didnt seem all that sharp either).

[bobbyo]

Paul brought up something that is important. Fixed blade and Mechanical broadhead shooters need to test shoot their broadheads. Just because they say they will fly like field tips on the box does not mean they will. Also just because they shoot near field tips at 20 yards does not mean they will match field tips at 40, 60 ect. If you have the "They fly good enough attitude" I guarantee you you will miss a semi easy shot at a great animal and you will be sorry. It is hard enough to get a shot at an animal in this state. You might as well be sighted in with the actual heads you will be hunting with. This is why I don't see what the fascination is with getting broadheads to match field points. The deer could give a rats a-- where my field tips are hitting, but I sure do hope he is concerned with where my Muzzys are hitting. I think many people try to match field tips with hunting tips so most practice can be done with field points and then an occasional shot with the hunting tip to see if they "fly good enough". Practice with broadheads is a pain in the butt and expensive. You can't shoot them at ranges, they are hard to pull out of targets. They ruin targets quickly and up to 6 broadheads need to be sacrificed. Yet since I have shot my hunting tips at all pin distances and between pin distances on many occasions under different conditions, I have confidence they will hit where I want them to. Considering all the time waiting, glassing, stalking, driving, salting, rattling, calling and all the monetary expense. I want to make the most out of every opportunity, so i think the extra hassle of only shooting my hunting heads during the season is worth it.

Bob

[elecshoc]

I personally do bareshaft test before I do walkback tuning. Bareshaft testing is good to get your arrows shooting good for your bow. It will let you know if you have a high/low nock. It will also let you know it your arrows are the correct spine for your setup. After that a walkback tune will get your center shot correct. Once this is done your arrows should be coming out of you bow good. Then once this is done you can try broadhead tuning to get your field points and broad heads to shoot the same. Usually once I get a good bareshaft then a walkback tune on my bow then my broadheads and fields points come together pretty well. Also another thing to do is to spin test your arrows. You can do this by using a arrow spin tester or I just put the tip of the arrow with a broadheat on the tip of my index finger and spin. (Be Careful) If you feel a wobble in your arrow then the inserts aren't square. You have to think of your broadheads like fletching in the front of your arrow. If the broadhead is not square then it will steer your arrow wrong. Its a lot of work but once it done you'll have full confidence in your setup. The reasoning behind getting your field points to hit with your broadheads it to make sure your bow is working as efficiently as possible. good luck to you and if you have any questions feel free to ask and you can pm also...

[crazy4COUES]

I would suggest the "walkback tuning" method as well.

 

I spent a lot of time tuning my bow by the "paper" method and have it perform poorly on the walkback method. I think that the walkback method tells a hunter more about his/her bow than any other. I surly like to know that my bow is going to shoot 4-5 inches to either side at 50 yards, wouldn't you?

 

 

"WALK BACK TUNING" is more for finding proper center shot, if you have proper form and grip. It doesn't tell you how your bow/arrow are tuned. This method is great as a secondary method after achiving bullet holes through paper, IMO.

1. tune arrows, spin test

2. tune through paper, with broadheads

3. walk back to find center shot, out to your max. yardage.

4. practice, practice, practice.

5. have plenty of spare fletchings, you will need them as they get shaved off

[AZn8tiv]

Thanks for all the info guys, good stuff here and good timing for me as well. I'll be getting started on shooting broadheads too and this will all be fresh in my mind now. I can't shoot til Saturday, and I'm not sure what to expect, as I just bought my BH's this week and leave and get home from work when its dark .

[AZn8tiv]

Wow, just read the thread on Walk Back Tuning.... Thats good stuff

[gauchoand]

This is where i find most of the information that I refer too its put out by easton so you know its good stuff and has a lot of good tuning methods. I learned about the bareshaft method of tuning in here that elecshoc mentioned and liked it It was confusing at first but once I got into it was fine. Anyways its a good reference manual for anyone to have new to the sport or not:

 

http://www.willowcreekarchery.com/Easton-a...uning_guide.pdf