Accuracy with broadheads

[bgirdler]

Do muzzy 3 blades usually give good accuracy and fly like field points? I was practicing last night and adjusting my pins after a rest adjustment. Got my pins back in good and tried the muzzy a few times. I am getting excellent groups out to 40 yards with field tips. but at 20-30 yards witht he muzzys i took 3 shots. one low left one dead center one low left but not as bad as first. I was using the practice blades, not the sharp ones. Besides obviously needing to shoot more, which I will do tomorrow or Wednesday, is this normal for these broadheads? Almost everyone I talekd to before buying these said theirs shoto liek fieldpoints. All hits were in kill zone but the two not dead center would near the edge. Just looking for insight, thanks!

[tommat]

I don't even know where to start. For fixed blade broadheads to shoot like field points your bow must be in tune, and lately I have really been spending some time matching the broadheads to the arrows. It has really made a difference. This Elk season I shot my broadheads and arrows numerous times out to 60 yards. I just resharpened them before the hunt...shaving sharp! I was amazed to see the differences. If I had an arrow / broadhead combo that wouldn't group, just switching it to another arrow would, a good portion of the time, bring it in with the others. If it didn't that arrow was marked and only to be used with a field tip. Using this process I was able to get 6 solid straight shooting fixed blade broadheads.....

 

So if you are confidant that your bow is in tune try switching arrows and broadheads around. If that doesn't work you probably have tuning issues with your bow.

 

This close to the season you might just go with a good mech head...

[bgirdler]

I don't even know where to start. For fixed blade broadheads to shoot like field points your bow must be in tune, and lately I have really been spending some time matching the broadheads to the arrows. It has really made a difference. This Elk season I shot my broadheads and arrows numerous times out to 60 yards. I just resharpened them before the hunt...shaving sharp! I was amazed to see the differences. If I had an arrow / broadhead combo that wouldn't group, just switching it to another arrow would, a good portion of the time, bring it in with the others. If it didn't that arrow was marked and only to be used with a field tip. Using this process I was able to get 6 solid straight shooting fixed blade broadheads.....

 

So if you are confidant that your bow is in tune try switching arrows and broadheads around. If that doesn't work you probably have tuning issues with your bow.

 

This close to the season you might just go with a good mech head...

 

As far as I know it is in tune. String, sight and rest were just laser aligned and it is grouping very well. Not sure I can afford to go to mechs since I just bought the fixed and don't have tons of cash free at teh moment. I still need to shoot more to see for sure. Thanks for the info.

[Red Rabbit]

You might try walkback tuning.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.p...walkback+tuning

 

And try some Slick Tricks or Shuttle Ts as they tend to fly better with slighty untuned bows than Muzzys or Thunderheads

[SilentButDeadly]

my broad-heads group low and to one side of where my field points group.

 

Go buy a dozen broad-heads and practice with real blades. (Yes, they're expensive, but how much are you willing to pay to shoot a buck?)

 

Another tip: number your arrows on the vane and start paying attention to where they hit -- not all factory arrows shoot the same, you'll find that certain arrows fly similarly every shot. Find your best arrows and when you are done practicing put your hunting broadheads on them and put them in your quiver.

 

T

[WFGinNM]

my broad-heads group low and to one side of where my field points group.

 

Go buy a dozen broad-heads and practice with real blades. (Yes, they're expensive, but how much are you willing to pay to shoot a buck?)

 

Another tip: number your arrows on the vane and start paying attention to where they hit -- not all factory arrows shoot the same, you'll find that certain arrows fly similarly every shot. Find your best arrows and when you are done practicing put your hunting broadheads on them and put them in your quiver.

 

T

 

 

 

I totally agree with numbering the arrows. When I have one or two arrows that don't group they are usually the same repeat offenders. They get assigned to a blunt for grouse golf.

 

--Bill

[bgirdler]

my broad-heads group low and to one side of where my field points group.

 

Go buy a dozen broad-heads and practice with real blades. (Yes, they're expensive, but how much are you willing to pay to shoot a buck?)

 

Another tip: number your arrows on the vane and start paying attention to where they hit -- not all factory arrows shoot the same, you'll find that certain arrows fly similarly every shot. Find your best arrows and when you are done practicing put your hunting broadheads on them and put them in your quiver.

 

T

 

Great tip! Thanks!!

[crazy4COUES]

I would recommend tuning your bow, shoot it through paper with broadheads. This will show you how your arrow is leaving the bow. Once you are shooting bullet holes then go for the advice given above. Just cause your arrow rest, sight and string are in alignment it doesn't mean your arrow is leaving the bow properly. With field points the fletches do a better job correcting arrow flight than with braodheads. This is why it is more noticable while shooting broadheads. 8 times out of 10 it is improper bow/arrow tuning that results in poor broadhead flight. The other two are cheap broadheads and bad grip, bow torque.

 

GOOD LUCK

[bgirdler]

I would recommend tuning your bow, shoot it through paper with broadheads. This will show you how your arrow is leaving the bow. Once you are shooting bullet holes then go for the advice given above. Just cause your arrow rest, sight and string are in alignment it doesn't mean your arrow is leaving the bow properly. With field points the fletches do a better job correcting arrow flight than with braodheads. This is why it is more noticable while shooting broadheads. 8 times out of 10 it is improper bow/arrow tuning that results in poor broadhead flight. The other two are cheap broadheads and bad grip, bow torque.

 

GOOD LUCK

 

How far away form the bow and target should the paper be? Should the paper be on the target? And do adjust the rest to correct for what the paper shows is off?

[tommat]

I would recommend tuning your bow, shoot it through paper with broadheads. This will show you how your arrow is leaving the bow. Once you are shooting bullet holes then go for the advice given above. Just cause your arrow rest, sight and string are in alignment it doesn't mean your arrow is leaving the bow properly. With field points the fletches do a better job correcting arrow flight than with braodheads. This is why it is more noticable while shooting broadheads. 8 times out of 10 it is improper bow/arrow tuning that results in poor broadhead flight. The other two are cheap broadheads and bad grip, bow torque.

 

GOOD LUCK

 

How far away form the bow and target should the paper be? Should the paper be on the target? And do adjust the rest to correct for what the paper shows is off?

 

Just Google "paper tuning". There are probably about a dozen web pages that will take you through it step by step.

[crazy4COUES]

Put the target at least 3 ft. behind the sheet of paper. Then stand 6 ft. infront of the sheet of paper. Shoot straight through the paper. Easton archery has an online tuning guide that can tell you what each tear represents and how to resolve it. Hope this helps.

[bobbyo]

I know for a fact that the muzzy practice blades do not fly well and do not group with the sharp blades, so they are basically worthless. Before you do anything shoot a regular broadhead. My muzzy's do not group with field points. I would be surprised if anyone's does. If you have a big enough target, at least 4' high, the walk back method that R.R. mentioned is the best method I have ever used. A tuned bow is a must with fixed blades. laser tuning has been hit and miss for me. I usually check tuning before every bow season with paper method and if adj is needed microtune with the walkback method. I have tried the bareshaft method, but never had much luck with that.

Bob

[coueschaser3]

On the contrary i have found that muzzys are difficult to get to fly with field points but mine currently group with mine with much much work. but it can be done. My old martin always shot them along with field tips, both bowtechs shooting quite faster were difficult to get on but they are shot for shot dead on.

[Redman]

It is a good idea to review a following. Laser tuning is only one step in the process, some broadheads are more forgiving than others, but Muzzys should fly great.

 

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.p...roadhead+tuning

 

Redman

[bobbyo]

On the contrary i have found that muzzys are difficult to get to fly with field points but mine currently group with mine with much much work. but it can be done. My old martin always shot them along with field tips, both bowtechs shooting quite faster were difficult to get on but they are shot for shot dead on.

 

Well I'm surprised. I just don't worry about matching field tip flight with broadheads. Close to hunting season I just sight in the broadheads (15-min) and practice with only broadheads until the end of the season. I do tear up a target in one season and I don't go to shooting ranges. The Muzzy's will group past 100 yards and fly real stable, that is why I use them. Oh yea I also have to do a lot of re-fletching.

Bob