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Here was a quick video I did when I got mine and did 204 brass. 
Turned off lights in garage and let it run while timing the time it took to get that quick glow. Then ran it again no flame and dialed it in for that time and let it rip

i had the plexi glass too tight and you will see the one brass suspended from it 

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Right now ive done a few with the drill and a socket; not the most precise but for now its better than nothing. I have been watching the color change line in the brass (kind of blueish purple) and heating until that line goes just a little past the shoulder, maybe 5-7 seconds 

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10 minutes ago, Fern said:

Here was a quick video I did when I got mine and did 204 brass. 
Turned off lights in garage and let it run while timing the time it took to get that quick glow. Then ran it again no flame and dialed it in for that time and let it rip

i had the plexi glass too tight and you will see the one brass suspended from it 

 

That set up sure does look nice though

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I do it with a plumbing torch.  Stand it up and where a light glove.  Hold up the brass to the torch and twist fast because the mapp gas is very hot.  This only takes 3-4 seconds.  By trade im a plumber so seeing color on brass or copper change is very easy for me to see.  But you should not ever see red glowing color on your brass.  Watch some videos' to see how it should look.  You will burn a couple of brass or use some trash brass to get it figured out first.      

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5 hours ago, Zeke-BE said:

I do it with a plumbing torch.  Stand it up and where a light glove.  Hold up the brass to the torch and twist fast because the mapp gas is very hot.  This only takes 3-4 seconds.  By trade im a plumber so seeing color on brass or copper change is very easy for me to see.  But you should not ever see red glowing color on your brass.  Watch some videos' to see how it should look.  You will burn a couple of brass or use some trash brass to get it figured out first.      

Do that and technique, but use a socket and a drill. No chance of getting burned, and spreads the heat much more evenly.

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6 hours ago, firstcoueswas80 said:

Do that and technique, but use a socket and a drill. No chance of getting burned, and spreads the heat much more evenly.

I never get burn.  You might feel a little heat.  But if you really feel the heat you over cooked the brass

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AMP annealer for me. Or Annealing Made Perfect. I shoot a lot of rifle cartridges and I anneal after every firing. Use it on 6mm gt, 6mm ARC, 6.5 creedmoor, 6.5 PRC, .223, and 219 Zipper;)

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Built an induction annealer a while back, didn't quite care for it. The gains of homogeneous annealing of the brass throughout made minimal difference for the time suck.

Annealez works awesome. Can load a hopper and work on other things on the bench while it plinks away. Highly adjustable and simple. The ugly annealer looks to be an improved version of the Annealez, but I don't have experience with it.

Gripes about the Annealez are:

  • The wheels, they tend to tack up when warm due to radiant heat from the annealing flame, and direct contact from the cases. Deeper into lots I would notice sticking cases which would upset the applecart
  • The flame adjustment bar was a simple eye bolt. 
  • The departure angle of cases didn't lend to natural depositing into the catch bin. I now stand my unit on the edge of my bench and let the cases fall to a bucket with a dog cone around it to catch any deflected cases.

The ugly annealer appears to solve all the above.

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7 hours ago, bowhunter-tw said:

Great insight, Im definitely going to get one of the ugly annealers when im ready to spend the money

Set a alert on camel camel camel in case it drops in price. When it dropped to $280 I ordered and couple other people did to after I mentioned it on another board and within two days it went up $60. 
it’s normally around 300. The main thing that attracted me to it was the wheels were metal and wouldn’t melt or get tacky as another member mentioned.  The wheel has a grit to it to help it spin

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52 minutes ago, Fern said:

Set a alert on camel camel camel in case it drops in price. When it dropped to $280 I ordered and couple other people did to after I mentioned it on another board and within two days it went up $60. 
it’s normally around 300. The main thing that attracted me to it was the wheels were metal and wouldn’t melt or get tacky as another member mentioned.  The wheel has a grit to it to help it spin

What is camel camel camel? 

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This is a must read for anyone planning to anneal. We want to know why we anneal, and specifically how brass anneals, so we can best plan our case annealing workflow.

TL;DR - Brass annealing acts as a reset in regards to hardness causes by work (firing, resizing, etc). We want to reset just the neck/shoulder section of the case. Any further down the case wall and say goodbye to extremities, possibly life. If done correctly and at the appropriate stage of your workflow, yields a more consistent release of bullet and thereby, improved accuracy, and indirectly, longer case life.

Link to Annealing Article

 

 

 

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11 minutes ago, LonePineOutdoors_AZ said:

This is a must read for anyone planning to anneal. We want to know why we anneal, and specifically how brass anneals, so we can best plan our case annealing workflow.

TL;DR - Brass annealing acts as a reset in regards to hardness causes by work (firing, resizing, etc). We want to reset just the neck/shoulder section of the case. Any further down the case wall and say goodbye to extremities, possibly life. If done correctly and at the appropriate stage of your workflow, yields a more consistent release of bullet and thereby, improved accuracy, and indirectly, longer case life.

https://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

 

 

Your link was broken; when I think of annealing im drawn to it for the extended brass life aspect, but the neck tension is a plus. 

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Updated response with embedded link. If not, search 6mmbr.com for "The Art and Science of Annealing".

The case life is awesome. 6.5 Guys did a test and found Lapua cases to last well into the high 20's on iterations of loading when properly annealed.

The best thing IMO is that annealing provides a more uniform state of brass for all the cases in a lot, yielding much more consistent bullet release. Think of a case neck like an archery release. It has to be THE. SAME. EVERY. TIME. for accuracy at distance. Hardness in the brass, is like uneven tension in the wrist, punching the release, and torquing all in one.

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