FS: 16 Gold Tip Hunter XTs 340 $110: SOLD

[Tempe.243]

16:Hunter XTs 340 spine. Cut to 29.25" (carbon to carbon), standard inserts knocks and 100 grain field tips. Blazer vanes helical fletching.  Fletching is from Archery Headquarters or by me with AZ EZ Fletch. Most are brand new or barely used, a couple are well used but still in good shape.  And couple don't have fletching.  I can fletch those if the buyer is good with black and red.

Been trying to step up my archery game and tried some bareshaft tuning.  Turns out I am underspined.  Will trade for same arrow and length in 300 spine.

Picks are representative sample.

[rancilio]

36 minutes ago, Tempe.243 said:

Turns out I am over spined.  Will trade for same arrow and length in 300 spine.

If you are over spined, meaning too stiff of an arrow, you want to go towards a 400 arrow.  300 is more stiff than 340.

The Gold Tip calculator is generally decent. 
https://www.goldtip.com/Resources/Spine-Chart.aspx

If you ever get down south and still have these arrows, let me know. 

[Tempe.243]

14 minutes ago, rancilio said:

If you are over spined, meaning too stiff of an arrow, you want to go towards a 400 arrow.  300 is more stiff than 340.

The Gold Tip calculator is generally decent. 
https://www.goldtip.com/Resources/Spine-Chart.aspx

If you ever get down south and still have these arrows, let me know. 

I made a mental mistake while typing.  I am UNDERSPINED; bareshaft arrow is way to the right.  Thanks for looking out though.

[krp]

What's your poundage and draw length? shooting right is an indication of center shot adjustment or if spine more that you are overspined if right handed.

Kent

[Tempe.243]

10 minutes ago, krp said:

What's your poundage and draw length? shooting right is an indication of center shot adjustment or if spine more that you are overspined if right handed.

Kent

Hoyt Charger LD at 70 lbs with 30.5" DL.

Using this as a guide.  Up down is fine.  Bareshaft arrow goes right.  Fletched arrows group just fine.

Bow-Tuning---Bare-Shaft(1).pdf

Goldtip says I should have 300 spine.

[krp]

I do not wish to side track your thread, but you are right on the line of the 340 and 300 depending if you are 69lbs or 70lbs. Either arrow should work. An underspined arrow jumps up and down but stays basically straight, an overspined arrow starts sideways and can't correct itself, stays sideways.

When bare shaft tuning you are adjusting the rest first for left and right and then up and down. If you can't get groups at 30 yards bare shaft adjusting the rest, then you have a spine issue.

If you are just comparing a bare shaft to a fletched one with the same rest setup and it's not the same poi, that tells you the rest isn't correctly adjusted.

Kent

[krp]

I read your link, that's for finger bows. Bare shaft for compounds is different.

Kent

[rancilio]

Don’t listen to anyone who doesn’t know or ask your tip weight. Rear of arrow weight matters as well but the difference between vanes and feathers is generally a whole lot less than the difference between 100, 125, 150, etc grains at the front.

[krp]

GT 340, 29.25, 100gr tip, standard GT insert, blazer vanes... the arrow is cut and dried. The three factors of spine are arrow choice and then length cut, head weight and then energy down the shaft(poundage).

Regardless an arrow shooting right from a compound and release is not an indicator of underspine, I would hope if I was making a decision off of incorrect info someone would point it out.

If the OP would like me to I'd explain bareshaft tuning in a PM or here, otherwise I'll step away.

Kent

 

[joohnnybgood]

I'd listen to Kent personally. Man seems to know what he's talking about. 

[bigorange]

7 hours ago, krp said:

GT 340, 29.25, 100gr tip, standard GT insert, blazer vanes... the arrow is cut and dried. The three factors of spine are arrow choice and then length cut, head weight and then energy down the shaft(poundage).

Regardless an arrow shooting right from a compound and release is not an indicator of underspine, I would hope if I was making a decision off of incorrect info someone would point it out.

If the OP would like me to I'd explain bareshaft tuning in a PM or here, otherwise I'll step away.

Kent

 

Can you start a separate thread with explanation? I’ve read a lot about it but so far your explanation here has made more sense than articles I’ve read. 

[krp]

Ok, Last time I wrote it up was on 24hourcampfire, I'll try and find it or rewrite it... takes longer to write it than actually tune a bow... I'll put it in the archery section.

Kent

[Tempe.243]

22 minutes ago, krp said:

Ok, Last time I wrote it up was on 24hourcampfire, I'll try and find it or rewrite it... takes longer to write it than actually tune a bow... I'll put it in the archery section.

Kent

Thanks for the tips.  I get what you're saying about moving the rest.  I was about to get to that step and realized that was all based on proper spine.  Then I looked at the charts.  Charger is listed at 325 fps.  Figure at 70 lbs (limb bolts all the way down on 70 lbs limbs) and 30.5" DL (CH3F module).  I should be above 315 fps so I used that chart.  With 29.25" (CtoC) arrow, 300 spine is where I need/want to be.  Looks like I have more room to play with tip weight at that spine.  Hopefully Archery Headquarters has some in stock. 

Once I have the 300s, I will start tinkering with the rest and report back.

 

[krp]

Yes, it would be best if we charted right in the middle range of an specific arrow. You are right on the edge of both, so with the 340 an 85gr will stiffen it up but a 125gr will weaken it... the 300 you can go 125gr if it's to stiff but shouldn't go 85gr. Mostly we hunt with 100s or 125s and not 85s so the 300s may well work better.

But depending on how old your bow is and if it's lost a bit of ummpf... the 340s very well may be the better arrow with 100s. I just wouldn't give them up until I tuned the bow and knew for sure.

Kent

[krp]

Ok thread in archery...

Kent