Rifle scope

[Coues 'n' Sheep]

huskemaw is who my buddy went through and it took them 5 months to get his rifle back. The only thing is that if you do not reload your are stuck buying their rounds. he was not to happy with their service.

 

 

John,

 

I am thinking that sending a gun off just to have that work done is a bit excessive in the first place.... However, I can tell you that after I mounted my scope, developed a load and bullet that I was happy with, did the Data shooting & sent that off, got the Turret back, zeroed my rifle back at 200 with the new turret and field tested the turret... I had Three months wrapped up in all the cuz I had other stuff to do in life as well..... ..... I know how frustrating it can be when you are waiting for something to arrive in the mail.... I am sure your buddy needed that gun and it was durring thier busy season, too.... Yada, Yada,Yada..... and he was frickin' Pissed....like we all would be...... That does not change the fact that he can order a new turret any time with any type of ammo he wishes.... and all he has to do is send them the data! As far as reloading.... IMO.... If you plan to shoot longrange while in a hunting situation, then you better have custom ammo from somewhere.

 

Sorry, your buddy had a bad go of it with Gun Werks.... I have a lot of faith in the scope though!

[TAM]

Tim, if you do the math before hand, and make the proper drop chart, all you have to do is read the chart and then click (quickly) to the number that you havd written on the chart.

 

For example. 600 yards is 41 clicks. Take 41, divide it by 4 (well before the shot). That gives you 10.25... So, when the moment of truth comes you dial the scope to 10.25 on the scope, and hold dead on. Its really not difficult if you do a little bit of of figuring out what is what in the off season.

 

PS. The ballistics calculator that you listed is the exact one I use. It is very accurate. When I was testing it for my .270 wsm last year, I had to come up one more click than listed by the ballistics chart. Thats pretty good!

 

 

Thank you Casey you just proved my point All I have to do with my Huskemaw Optics System is range find my target and adjust the turrets to that range. With your system you have to range the target, look at your range card to find the correct number of clicks, then dial the turrets. Huskemaw = two steps then pull the trigger, Zeiss = three steps then pull the trigger. You may not think that one extra step is a big deal, and your probably right... most of the time. But for me I want to eliminate as many of the extra steps as possible. As I said before I have a Zeiss Conquest scope and love it! I'm not slammin other systems at all. I just like the simplicity of the Huskemaw system better.

 

Also your comment about the ballistic calculator coming within 1 click of your rifles POI proves my other point. If you ONLY rely on the ballistic calculator to figure your drop chart, TDS reticle, or ballistic drop turrets then you are ONLY close with your long range POI, not dead on. The only way to be dead on is to do the field work yourself. One click off at a long range target could be the difference between hitting or missing, or worse yet killing versus wounding.

 

I don't own a TDS type system so I really can't comment on them. For me they just don't seem flexible enough for my hunting needs.

 

 

[wklman]

I prefer to actually hunt an animal and get up close enough where i don't have to worry about adjusting anything on my scope.

[BASS]

I prefer to actually hunt an animal and get up close enough where i don't have to worry about adjusting anything on my scope.

 

And some times getting closer is no longer an option. So why not drop that buck/bull/bear/lion/whatever then take a nice hike to go get em? Shooting long range makes you that much better of a marksman. Will I ever take a shot at a deer at 800? More than likely not. After the shot hits the animal and it starts to run, where will it go? Who knows. But will I take a shot at 500 with a spotter? You bet. It's all where you are comfortable shooting. Right now I know I'm dead on at 600 and mark that as my absolute farthest on a living animal. Now can I ring steel at 1000, yeah, but not good enough to try to hit a deer.

[TAM]

I prefer to actually hunt an animal and get up close enough where i don't have to worry about adjusting anything on my scope.

 

When I'm feeling like getting close I just pick up my bow. Hunting with a rifle isnt' about getting close.

[firstcoueswas80]

Tim, if you do the math before hand, and make the proper drop chart, all you have to do is read the chart and then click (quickly) to the number that you havd written on the chart.

 

For example. 600 yards is 41 clicks. Take 41, divide it by 4 (well before the shot). That gives you 10.25... So, when the moment of truth comes you dial the scope to 10.25 on the scope, and hold dead on. Its really not difficult if you do a little bit of of figuring out what is what in the off season.

 

PS. The ballistics calculator that you listed is the exact one I use. It is very accurate. When I was testing it for my .270 wsm last year, I had to come up one more click than listed by the ballistics chart. Thats pretty good!

 

 

Thank you Casey you just proved my point All I have to do with my Huskemaw Optics System is range find my target and adjust the turrets to that range. With your system you have to range the target, look at your range card to find the correct number of clicks, then dial the turrets. Huskemaw = two steps then pull the trigger, Zeiss = three steps then pull the trigger. You may not think that one extra step is a big deal, and your probably right... most of the time. But for me I want to eliminate as many of the extra steps as possible. As I said before I have a Zeiss Conquest scope and love it! I'm not slammin other systems at all. I just like the simplicity of the Huskemaw system better.

 

Also your comment about the ballistic calculator coming within 1 click of your rifles POI proves my other point. If you ONLY rely on the ballistic calculator to figure your drop chart, TDS reticle, or ballistic drop turrets then you are ONLY close with your long range POI, not dead on. The only way to be dead on is to do the field work yourself. One click off at a long range target could be the difference between hitting or missing, or worse yet killing versus wounding.

 

I don't own a TDS type system so I really can't comment on them. For me they just don't seem flexible enough for my hunting needs.

 

 

So Tim, let me run my process of figuring out my scope and clicks past you, and tell me if it is different then the Huskema. (I dont think that it is).

 

A. Develop a load that shoots well, get 10+ rounds shot over the chronograph for average velocity.

B. Plug all necessary info into the ballistics calculator that you posted and come up with my clicks (the divide by 4)

C. Go shoot at ranges to check the clicks, if they are not dead on, fix them.

 

Am I missing something, or is that pretty much what is done with the Huskemaw system also? And does that one extra step (reading 2 or 3 numbers on a piece of paper mounted to the stock) REALLY mean the difference between harvesting/not harvesting a deer?

 

[TAM]

Tim, if you do the math before hand, and make the proper drop chart, all you have to do is read the chart and then click (quickly) to the number that you havd written on the chart.

 

For example. 600 yards is 41 clicks. Take 41, divide it by 4 (well before the shot). That gives you 10.25... So, when the moment of truth comes you dial the scope to 10.25 on the scope, and hold dead on. Its really not difficult if you do a little bit of of figuring out what is what in the off season.

 

PS. The ballistics calculator that you listed is the exact one I use. It is very accurate. When I was testing it for my .270 wsm last year, I had to come up one more click than listed by the ballistics chart. Thats pretty good!

 

 

Thank you Casey you just proved my point All I have to do with my Huskemaw Optics System is range find my target and adjust the turrets to that range. With your system you have to range the target, look at your range card to find the correct number of clicks, then dial the turrets. Huskemaw = two steps then pull the trigger, Zeiss = three steps then pull the trigger. You may not think that one extra step is a big deal, and your probably right... most of the time. But for me I want to eliminate as many of the extra steps as possible. As I said before I have a Zeiss Conquest scope and love it! I'm not slammin other systems at all. I just like the simplicity of the Huskemaw system better.

 

Also your comment about the ballistic calculator coming within 1 click of your rifles POI proves my other point. If you ONLY rely on the ballistic calculator to figure your drop chart, TDS reticle, or ballistic drop turrets then you are ONLY close with your long range POI, not dead on. The only way to be dead on is to do the field work yourself. One click off at a long range target could be the difference between hitting or missing, or worse yet killing versus wounding.

 

I don't own a TDS type system so I really can't comment on them. For me they just don't seem flexible enough for my hunting needs.

 

 

So Tim, let me run my process of figuring out my scope and clicks past you, and tell me if it is different then the Huskema. (I dont think that it is).

 

A. Develop a load that shoots well, get 10+ rounds shot over the chronograph for average velocity.

B. Plug all necessary info into the ballistics calculator that you posted and come up with my clicks (the divide by 4)

C. Go shoot at ranges to check the clicks, if they are not dead on, fix them.

 

Am I missing something, or is that pretty much what is done with the Huskemaw system also? And does that one extra step (reading 2 or 3 numbers on a piece of paper mounted to the stock) REALLY mean the difference between harvesting/not harvesting a deer?

 

Casey, you're pretty much right on. One of the keys in the Huskemaw system is that when you provide them with your field data they are able to figure out what your true ballistic coeificient is and figure that into your turret. Yes, you could do that yourself and figure it into your drop chart that is taped on the stock of your rifle.

 

As far as your last question is concerned let me just put it like this... while you are taking the one extra step in your system, so is the deer! Sometimes one step or one second is all it takes to loose an opportunity. Also for what it's worth there is the possibility that you read the wrong line or wrong number from your drop chart and then dial in the wrong number of clicks. This happened to me in Mexico this past year.

 

This all may seem like splitting hairs to you, and the truth is you're right! When it comes to shooting my bow or rifle I will always try to do everything in my power to create the perfect system. With long range shooting you have very little room for error and I try to remove anything and everything that may be a problem.

 

Don't get me wrong Casey, tbere is no doubt that you have a good reliable system and you've taken the time to practice at various ranges. When it comes to the moment of truth I'd bet money that the Huskemaw system would put you on target faster every time.

 

 

[wklman]

I prefer to actually hunt an animal and get up close enough where i don't have to worry about adjusting anything on my scope.

 

When I'm feeling like getting close I just pick up my bow. Hunting with a rifle isnt' about getting close.

 

so what is hunting with a rifle about? seeing how far away you can get before you make a reckless or wounding shot?

[TAM]

I prefer to actually hunt an animal and get up close enough where i don't have to worry about adjusting anything on my scope.

 

When I'm feeling like getting close I just pick up my bow. Hunting with a rifle isnt' about getting close.

 

so what is hunting with a rifle about? seeing how far away you can get before you make a reckless or wounding shot?

 

Take is somewhere else dude! We were in the middle of a intelligent conversation. If you choose to disagree thats fine but don't hijack this topic and pick a fight just because you think you're better than us!

[GameHauler]

I prefer to actually hunt an animal and get up close enough where i don't have to worry about adjusting anything on my scope.

 

When I'm feeling like getting close I just pick up my bow. Hunting with a rifle isnt' about getting close.

 

so what is hunting with a rifle about? seeing how far away you can get before you make a reckless or wounding shot?

 

I am by no means trying to stir the pot here but that statement is wrong.

 

I will defend TAM just for a second and then move on to the truth about Longer Range hunting.

Tim has been shooting Longer ranges for a while and takes the time to be able to do it RIGHT.

 

That said:

Longer Range hunting (as I like to call it) has developed because of the advancement in equipment that allows use to do so in a humane way.

 

Yes there will be people out there that have not developed the skills to do it but will try.

Just like there are now at short range and with bows that can do the job at a hundred yrds.

 

I decided I needed to build some guns able to reach out there a little further and get the job done if getting closer was not an option.

 

Two years ago Linnea had 2 Bulls shot of from under her because other hunters were able to take a shot at Longer range or were able to get closer faster than we were.

 

Last year She had probably the largest Bull taken in her unit at 400yds at first light but since I KNEW she can tack drive at 300yds but was not sure at 400 we passed on the shot.

 

If you had any Idea the amount of money and time that Longer range folks put into it, it would scare the he!! out of you.

Not just the weapons but the loading equipment to find the perfect round,

the cost of shooting all the test rounds,

the cost of shooting all the rounds to perfect the skills to do it RIGHT.

 

If you can find the time read the article on this sites home page.

I am not trying to convert you or any one but it is worth a read

Mike

http://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/articles-index.php

[firstcoueswas80]

Tim, it is very rare that I bring situational circumstances into play, but let me run one by you, and this is kinda how I have 0 reserves in using the "slower" turrets.

 

 

Big buck, 500 yards away. Near the top of the ridge. Decision is made that he has an appointment with the taxidermist. He is almost topped over, but not quite. In the extra time that it would take me to get ready for a shot, if that second means the difference in getting a shot or not, was there really a high percentage shot there?

 

I really dont know if that makes a sense or not but basically, if one second is the difference to having blood on your hands or not, was there really a high percentage shot ever offered for either one of us?

[TAM]

Tim, it is very rare that I bring situational circumstances into play, but let me run one by you, and this is kinda how I have 0 reserves in using the "slower" turrets.

 

 

Big buck, 500 yards away. Near the top of the ridge. Decision is made that he has an appointment with the taxidermist. He is almost topped over, but not quite. In the extra time that it would take me to get ready for a shot, if that second means the difference in getting a shot or not, was there really a high percentage shot there?

 

I really dont know if that makes a sense or not but basically, if one second is the difference to having blood on your hands or not, was there really a high percentage shot ever offered for either one of us?

 

Casey you are right on with that senario! No shot for either of us, especially at long range and a moving deer. But what happens when that buck pauses to take one last look back at you before he goes over the hill? Do you have enough time to make the shot before he moves on? Sooner or later this will happen to you!

 

Like I said before, it's splitting hairs at this point and I'm just trying to do everything in my power to sway the odds in my favor. There is nothing wrong with your system, but you have to admit the Huskemaw system is very user friendly and flat out works!

 

I also hate to inform you, but Murphy's Law says that after everything you just said in defense of your system... well, uh you're gonna be in a position this November on your deer hunt where one more second would have gotten the job done on that monster skull cap you've been dreaming all year about! Just be sure and let me know when it happens so I can say I told you so

 

[Coues 'n' Sheep]

I prefer to actually hunt an animal and get up close enough where i don't have to worry about adjusting anything on my scope.

 

When I'm feeling like getting close I just pick up my bow. Hunting with a rifle isnt' about getting close.

 

so what is hunting with a rifle about? seeing how far away you can get before you make a reckless or wounding shot?

 

 

Lets not ASSume.... that you have to be at a range of 400-600 yards to make a reckless or wounding shot.... There are people... and we all know them.... that should not even carry a firearm or bow in the woods, much less shoot one at something at any distance over two paces!!! The difference here is not about the distance, it is about guys putting in the time to be proficient at 20yds.... or at 520 yds.... they all take practice.... lots of practice. Making educated and pracitced shots in the field creates success..... and increased odds. The debate here is between how to go about executing that perfect shot at 100 or 1000 yds..... with swift and correct mathematics. In Casey's set-up he has time to calm himself and determine a "firing solution".... in the case of Tim and myself, we simply dial the yardage that is laser etched into our turret and focus on the shot.... our only thought is...."hold..... squeeeeeze...."! No math, no guess, no hold-over, no chart...... just the shot. I love this system and would have it on any gun that I plan to hunt big game with..... whether I use it, or not. It is nice to know that if I Finally find that trophy of a lifetime in a place where closing the distance is not an option..... that I can with confidence and speed make an ethical and clean harvest. And I say Finally because ALL of my largest and best big game trophies have been harvested with a bow between 12 and 45 yards. I too, can get close, if I choose.... just depends on what, where, and how I am hunting.

[lefty]

hey cns, with the tds, say my next to last crosshair is 650, and my last is 785, and the target i'm shooting at is 705, then all i do is put it right between the two crosshairs,i've done this before shooting at targets, sometimes at some distances you might put the target a third of the way between your crosshairs or two thirds, but at no way are you back where you started from-guessing.i shot an antelope last year at 340 yds. which was between crosshairs,but with it on 24 power, i couldn't of missed because all my crosshairs were inside his body! to each his own man, i'm not giving you crap for your setup if it works for you-great, mine works for me too.

[firstcoueswas80]

Lefty, I think Gino made it seemd like shooting at 505 when you only have a 550 marker is EXTREMLY tough. It really isnt all that hard if you have a solid place to start. Granted, shooting 400 yards with a standard duplex reticle sighted in at 100 yards (or what ever distance) is pretty tough unless you know where the bottowm of the duplex hits.. Example: My .270 (back up gun) is sightead dead on at 100 yards. The bottow of the duplex is spot on 350 yards.

 

 

Come on Gino, theres gotta be atleast a LITTLE guess work mixed in there or its no fun!