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VinceDuarte

6.5 prc cleaning

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Hey all bought my first rifle a Bergara 6.5 PRC about to sight it in for coues season. Just wondering if 6.5 creedmoor brushes would work for PRC I can’t find anything that says yes or no? Any advice will help thanks!!

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Do some research about cleaning rifle barrles or even over cleaning . 
 

most times you do more harm than good

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Buy a good nylon brush and bore tech eliminator. 

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If they’re good enough for the creedmoor, they’re good enough for any cartridge on this earth. I didn’t think brushes were marketed as cartridge specific? That’s absolutely ridiculous if true

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Might want to think about a bore guide also. Wanna keep that cleaning rod going down your barrel straight. As far as the brushes you can go a size or two larger, but not smaller, .270 or 7mm will work in a 6.5 barrel.

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2 hours ago, recurveman said:

A barrel is just like an old cast iron skillet.    They both need to be seasoned properly for optimal performance.  

 

Yes sir I’m definitely breaking in the barrel the right way!

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23 hours ago, VinceDuarte said:

Yes sir I’m definitely breaking in the barrel the right way!

So here are my two bigger items to address with a new barrel.   Normally it takes at least 50 rounds for the speeds to get consistent from shot to shot.    Some can take more shots depending on quality.   Second, is how you get ready for a hunt.    Typically I'll clean my gun as good as I want BEFORE the hunt.    Then I go to the range and dump no less than 6-10 shots down the tube.    Put the gun in the case and don't touch it again until I'm done hunting......or maybe even next hunting season.    Having a "seasoned" tube is a huge deal if you want to hit an animal with the first shot at longer distances.   300 yards and under is no bid deal.   Past that the details get more important.   

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On 6/10/2021 at 3:00 PM, VinceDuarte said:

Yes sir I’m definitely breaking in the barrel the right way!

There are least a hundred right ways to break in a barrel.  

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My personal method for breaking in a factory barrel:

1.  Load up 6-10 at a medium light charge weight for sighters/foulers.  Load up 15-21 rounds in 3 round groups .5gr apart.

Go to the range, sight in, and shoot the charge weight test loads for groups.

2.  Clean after that range trip.

3.  Pick the best charge weight load and Load up seating depth test loads, usually 5-6 course seating loads, 3 each at .020" deeper seating depths.

Go shoot those for groups.  

4.  Load up the best of the seating depth, maybev15ish, and go shoot at distance.

5.  Clean barrel.

6.  Load up 100 or so, and have at it.  Clean when groups open up.  Maybe 50, maybe 500.

My personal method for breaking in a custom barrel:

1.  Shoot one

2.  Repeat

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Get a BORE GUIDE.  

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On 6/15/2021 at 10:33 AM, lancetkenyon said:

My personal method for breaking in a factory barrel:

1.  Load up 6-10 at a medium light charge weight for sighters/foulers.  Load up 15-21 rounds in 3 round groups .5gr apart.

Go to the range, sight in, and shoot the charge weight test loads for groups.

2.  Clean after that range trip.

3.  Pick the best charge weight load and Load up seating depth test loads, usually 5-6 course seating loads, 3 each at .020" deeper seating depths.

Go shoot those for groups.  

4.  Load up the best of the seating depth, maybev15ish, and go shoot at distance.

5.  Clean barrel.

6.  Load up 100 or so, and have at it.  Clean when groups open up.  Maybe 50, maybe 500.

My personal method for breaking in a custom barrel:

1.  Shoot one

2.  Repeat

So you don't fireform brass first? I for one am not waiting for a fouled barrel to show up right in the middle of a hunt or match whether it's 40 shots or 50 shots?

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3 hours ago, L Cazador said:

So you don't fireform brass first? I for one am not waiting for a fouled barrel to show up right in the middle of a hunt or match whether it's 40 shots or 50 shots?

Totally depends on the cartridge of choice. 

If it is any sort of a wildcat or Improved version (.260AI, 6.5SS, .25-06AI), then yes, I absolutely have to fire form brass before starting load development.  But I work up a good fire forming load just like anything else and then use that load while fire forming to the improved chamber. 

If it is for a belted magnum cartridge know to grow a lot of headspace (like .264WM, 7RM, .300WM), I will start load development with virgin brass, get 95% done, then verify with fired brass and fine-tune as needed.

For SAAMI spec non-belted cartridges, I would absolutely start load development with virgin brass.

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9 hours ago, lancetkenyon said:

Totally depends on the cartridge of choice. 

If it is any sort of a wildcat or Improved version (.260AI, 6.5SS, .25-06AI), then yes, I absolutely have to fire form brass before starting load development.  But I work up a good fire forming load just like anything else and then use that load while fire forming to the improved chamber. 

If it is for a belted magnum cartridge know to grow a lot of headspace (like .264WM, 7RM, .300WM), I will start load development with virgin brass, get 95% done, then verify with fired brass and fine-tune as needed.

For SAAMI spec non-belted cartridges, I would absolutely start load development with virgin brass.

The OP is talking about a SAMMI cartridge in a factory rifle. So obviously talking virgin brass? Do you fireform virgin brass in a SAMMI chamber before starting load development? 

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